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Either a 30w or 40w is fine. .031" is a good all around size. A couple things to consider, there is a huge difference between a $10 soldering iron and a $100 one. In the same watts, a better quality iron will always work better. Same with solder, use either 60/40 or 63/37 and get decent solder. Solder that is cheap quality is not worth using even if it's free. Don't use lead free solder either. It's like anything else that has had an essential ingredient removed by government safety regulations. Normally the cure is more deadly than the original ingredient that was removed, plus the end product flat sucks and doesn't work.

Wow, I'm a little shocked to find myself completely in agreement with Ron.

Yes, spend the extra money for a good quality 40 watt iron. Some people think that a 20 watt iron is better because they're afraid of burning the work piece, but with a hotter iron you're in and out before the heat spreads to surrounding components.

Remember to keep the tip cleaned and tinned at all times.

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Different tools for different jobs. I use 15 watts for really delicate, small stuff, so as to not cook transistors and IC chips. For general purposes, Ron's right on. I use thicker solder (always lead for electrical) for big things like battery cables etc. The thin stuff sometimes has too much flux for big jobs.

your stock is rising number one,i mean number Ron!

the KEY to a good solder joint is clean metal that is free of oxidation. Shiney copper, tin plate that is not covered with oxide, no paint, no lacquer, no grease or oil. Heat the joint and flow solder onto the joint, just like in plumbing but you can keep the heat applied while you flow the solder.

You can solder Aluminum. It's a royal PITA though.

If you anticipate doing a good bit of soldering you'll want something pretty nice with temp control tip.

For electrical soldering you want a 60W or 100W iron. If you anticipate using it outdoors or in drafty areas in the wintertime, get the 100W. Weller makes some nice irons and parts are easy to get and reasonable for the quality.


60W


100W
you will want a finer tip than stock on the 100W for finer wires on the bike.

The 100w is big enough for repairs of thin sheet metal if done on a warm day with no breeze.

These have temperature controlled tips. Temp control makes your tip last a LOT longer and heats more quickly. The 700W tip is fine for Sn60/40 or Sn63/37 'rosin' core fluxed solder. Buy yourself a 1lb roll. 1mm or so diameter. The 63/37 is a eutectic solder. this means it goes from liquid to solid with no intermediate phase. One can work more quickly with it at the expense of slightly weaker joints. It's commonly used for electronics in a production environment. Back in the day when life wasn't so hectic, we used 60/40 in electronics because it is stronger.

Weller also has some non temperature controlled irons. While fine for the occasional quick job you won't enjoy using to build up a harness unless you get a cradle with a thermostat to keep the iron from overheating. In an non temp control a 40 or 60 W should do the trick.

here is there line of 'consumer' irons
line


-Duck

Post edited by: Duck, at: 2006/08/18 03:02

Post edited by: Duck, at: 2006/08/18 03:04

I use a propane torch for soldering two wires of atleast 18ga together, and a butane torch for smaller wires, and the butane torch has a couple of tips that can be put on to allow use on boards and the like. I had a $120 120 watt soldering gun that was given to me brand new as a gift, I used it a few times, then about 3 months after the warranty was up, I took it out to use again, soldered one wire that took a LONG time to get hot enough for solder to melt, then the next one it wouldn't melt even directly on the tip of the gun, and eventually would only mildly heat the tip..cool enough you could grab it.

On TV, they have shown (on infomercial) a cordless/rechargeable soldering iron that is called "heatless" or something like that. The thing gets hot instantly at the touch of a button and then appears to be cool when the button is released. Since I do a LOT of soldering out under the porch cover on my shop and while there is electricity available, the cord with the iron hanging on the end is a bit cumbersome. Anyone use one of these cordless "cold" soldering guns to solder 20 to 10 ga. wire? How long would the charge last? Do these things really work? Since they cost about $20 I have been curious to try one just for the no-cord convenience.

wiredgeorge wrote:

On TV, they have shown (on infomercial) a cordless/rechargeable soldering iron that is called "heatless" or something like that. The thing gets hot instantly at the touch of a button and then appears to be cool when the button is released. Since I do a LOT of soldering out under the porch cover on my shop and while there is electricity available, the cord with the iron hanging on the end is a bit cumbersome. Anyone use one of these cordless "cold" soldering guns to solder 20 to 10 ga. wire? How long would the charge last? Do these things really work? Since they cost about $20 I have been curious to try one just for the no-cord convenience.

I'm in the electronics repair business. I've never personnally used one, but a couple friends tried them and promptly placed them in the trash bin. Your basic Chinese gimmick item.

Thanks Ron, you saved me $20

I have tried to use one of the cold soldering irons recently when repairing an xbox. I don't have access to a Radio Shack in order to get motherboard repair items at the moment and the best way to keep my sanity was to keep the entertainment going and just jump from one solder point to the next. After fiddling with it to no avail for about an hour, I decided the best thing to do to the new fangled iron was to chunk it across the room (while adding fowl words due to increasing my problem instead of helping it)and go get a REAL iron to do the job right. After that, I was done in a few minutes. I believe that it is a good concept but wouldn't pay for one when I can get a hold of the real deal. Some people I know can use them well and praise them, but not me.