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1981 KZ440 LTD original wiring from stator question

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08 Mar 2023 03:59 #881239 by Bpop2019
Hello guys, 
just picked up a kz440 ltd from a guy who had no information/ clue what was going on with it so it currently doesn’t run. Now I’m looking to breathe new life into it.

So, my plan is strip the wiring harness off and go as minimal as possible. I looked through the bare bones thread and found one for my year and model that I think will  work for my needs. However, I have a question about the wires coming from behind the pulley cover on the left side.

The wires in question ties into the main harness and has two yellows, one black, and one green. I assume the two yellows go to the rectifier, and black being ground, but what is the green and where would I bring that wire ?
As I said, I’m looking to have as little as possible on this bike as far as wiring so any help would definitely be appreciated, thanks!

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08 Mar 2023 10:50 #881250 by Wookie58

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08 Mar 2023 13:26 #881255 by Bpop2019
Thanks for the reply, I assume this wire would then just be grounded to the frame on this bike then? I don’t see any green wire on the diagrams relating to it..

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  • Scirocco
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  • Never change a running system
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08 Mar 2023 13:52 #881256 by Scirocco

The green goes to the voltage regulator and controls the field coil
Are you sure Wookie!? Only the KZ400 have a field coil, the KZ440 didn´t have a field coil charging system, so the green wire is the neutral switch.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Wookie58

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08 Mar 2023 14:46 #881259 by Wookie58
Would need to check the wiring diagram specific to the bike, if it's a permanent magnet system does it still only have two stator outputs? (2 yellow wires) that being the case then I assume the black is the oil pressure switch wire?

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08 Mar 2023 15:13 #881262 by Wookie58

The green goes to the voltage regulator and controls the field coil
Are you sure Wookie!? Only the KZ400 have a field coil, the KZ440 didn´t have a field coil charging system, so the green wire is the neutral switch.
I stand corrected (that's what happens when you make assumptions  ) the black is the oil pressure switch wire as previously mentioned

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08 Mar 2023 15:13 #881263 by Bpop2019
So upon looking at this in the manual, looks like you both were correct. Green being neutral switch, black oil pressure switch. In my scenario, would it be a good idea to install a small indicator light for the neutral switch, and just cap the oil pressure / add another small light?

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08 Mar 2023 17:55 #881266 by Nerdy

So upon looking at this in the manual, looks like you both were correct. Green being neutral switch, black oil pressure switch. In my scenario, would it be a good idea to install a small indicator light for the neutral switch, and just cap the oil pressure / add another small light?
 

IMO the bare minimum of diagnostic info you should have is an oil pressure light, and you should not remove it.

1979 KZ400 Gifted to a couple of nephews
1967 Yamaha YCS1 Bonanza
1980 KZ440B
1981 Yamaha XT250H
1981 KZ440 LTD project bike
1981 GPz550
2013 Yamaha FZ6R

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08 Mar 2023 18:43 #881268 by Michi
I'm very happy to have forgotten all I know about the nightmare wiring on my KZ440 project. I'm just happy that it works.   
Actually, it's not too bad. It's a very simple wiring system, as far as bikes go. The 2 yellow wires go to rectifier, yes.  It's a single-phase alternator/rectifier setup. 

KZ440A LTD (1980)

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24 Mar 2023 21:52 - 24 Mar 2023 21:56 #881954 by Bpop2019
So I got a question regarding the ground for the battery and starter. I’m essentially using the bare bones template that I attached, but am making a few adjustments.
I was planning on running a new ground from the relocated starter relay to the starter, and a new ground from the battery to the frame. From the battery negative, I will be running a ground wire for the lights that will also connect to the starter relay. 
After looking at the bare bones diagram, it shows both the negative from the battery and the starter motor are both grounded at the engine with a shared wire to the frame.
Am I missing something here or overthinking it? I thought the battery was grounded to the Frame from the factory and the starter relay >starter motor>engine with a shared ground from the relay to the battery? 
Any guidance is much appreciated as always 
Attachments:
Last edit: 24 Mar 2023 21:56 by Bpop2019.

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25 Mar 2023 04:04 #881957 by Wookie58

So I got a question regarding the ground for the battery and starter. I’m essentially using the bare bones template that I attached, but am making a few adjustments.
I was planning on running a new ground from the relocated starter relay to the starter, and a new ground from the battery to the frame. From the battery negative, I will be running a ground wire for the lights that will also connect to the starter relay. 
After looking at the bare bones diagram, it shows both the negative from the battery and the starter motor are both grounded at the engine with a shared wire to the frame.
Am I missing something here or overthinking it? I thought the battery was grounded to the Frame from the factory and the starter relay >starter motor>engine with a shared ground from the relay to the battery? 
Any guidance is much appreciated as always 
I would suggest you start by printing the diagram and mark with a red pen which are "live" and which are "ground" and also establish which are "permanent live" and which are "ignition live" . Then work out what size cables you are going to use.
At the moment you appear confused and are in danger of needing a fire extinguisher 

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25 Mar 2023 06:44 #881962 by Bpop2019
Well thanks for the concern.
id like to say that maybe I rambled and made it come off as confusing then.

in an attempt to simplify, my question is was the negative battery cable grounded to the chassis from the factory?

there is also larger gauge ground from the starter relay to the starter motor. 

looking at the diagram in the service manual, the red/white from the relay taps into the black/yellow chassis ground wire that is connected to the negative post on the battery. 

I was planning on keeping it exactly like this, only matching the gauge wire in between the relay and starter, and using a longer length to a more hidden location.

hopefully this is less confusing , if not , I’ll take my beatings 

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