1980 Kz440 ignition system

Hello,
I have a 1980 Kz440A LTD that I am trying to get running. The engine cranks well, seems to have good compression and has been getting spark (though not super strong). What are some troubleshooting things I should try to get the bike running?  I realized the timing cam was off by 180 degrees so I reversed that so that the points open at TDC. Should I readjust the timing?

Thanks

have you sprayed starting fluid into the carbs?

I sprayed starting fluid into the air box. I was going to take the air box out this afternoon to gain access to the carb intake. How sensitive is the ignition timing?  If it’s off by a few degrees is that enough t prevent it from starting?

wrote:

Hello,
I have a 1980 Kz440A LTD that I am trying to get running. The engine cranks well, seems to have good compression and has been getting spark (though not super strong). What are some troubleshooting things I should try to get the bike running?  I realized the timing cam was off by 180 degrees so I reversed that so that the points open at TDC. Should I readjust the timing?

Thanks

What do you mean by "timing cam" if the camshaft timing was 180 degree's out you would not have good compression and there would likely be some "mechanical lovemaking"

I mean the cam on the timing advance, sorry. The timing advance I had was stamped KZ400 and I am able to remove the cam from the lever arms. I wasn’t sure if the 400 and 440 share a timing advance or if it was replaced. Now the points are opening around when the engine reaches the F mark

so your engine does not fire with starting fluid?

What color is the arc on the spark plug? Blueish white is what you want.
How many volts are getting to the coil?
Points or electronic?

Just installed new points and condenser and reset the timing and that seemed to do the trick. The spark seemed a brighter whitish blue, and the engine did start a bit on starting fluid. I don’t have gas rn to try for real, but I think I fixed the ignition issues. Any advice on remounting the boots of the air box onto the carbs?

wrote:

Just installed new points and condenser and reset the timing and that seemed to do the trick. The spark seemed a brighter whitish blue, and the engine did start a bit on starting fluid. I don’t have gas rn to try for real, but I think I fixed the ignition issues. Any advice on remounting the boots of the air box onto the carbs?

I always use a smear of washing up liquid on tight rubbers, the lube helps them slide on but it dries out so won't make them slide off again at. A later date like other lubes will

wrote:

I always use a smear of washing up liquid on tight rubbers, the lube helps them slide on but it dries out so won't make them slide off again at. A later date like other lubes will

For the US-ians, washing up (WU) liquid is dish soap.

I used that technique in the 1980s to install new rubber handgrips - then I discovered the compressor method.

This doesn’t really have to do with electrical stuff, but I just realized I’m missing the top piece of my airbox which actually would house the filter. I believe it would cover the battery when it is installed?  I don’t have anything like that. How well does this engine respond to the individual pod style filters that clamp right onto the carbs?
Thanks

CV carbs are more of a pain to jet correctly than slide carbs.
You will need to get a DynoJet kit for a KZ750h[LTD].
This is the best way because you need the jet needle that comes with the kit.
Just swapping jets will not get you there.


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