1984 KZ550 F2 - Zero power after new battery, kickstand switch issues

Been working on this bike on and off for the past year after it died on me in early november of 2021. Rebuilt the carbs, put a stock airbox on it and a few other things. By that point (this spring past spring), the bike would light up when I turned the key but not turn over. Was told by a mechanic that my battery was garbage and should switch to something factory activated. Got one online that had really good reviews, popped it in, turned the key and.... nothing. No lights, no signals, nothing on the dash, no horn even (doesnt start obviously).

Im braindead when it comes to electronics. I've tried to learn, I just see TV static. So, before I panic and impulse buy a whole new electrical system, I looked at common causes for this kind of issue.

Checked the battery; voltage checks out, terminals are in the right spot, clean and plenty snug.

The fuses aren't blown, but I may replace them anyway for the gigs as one of them seems oversized (wrong standard/type? Had it when I bought the bike and it worked fine so I'm not super concerned).

The next thing I wanted to look at was the kick stand switch. That's when I noticed this 

 

The switch doesn't seem to be actuating in either the up or down position, and I don't even see how it would be (might be missing a piece off the stand itself?). I did try to start the bike while manually depressing the plunger, but there was still nothing, for what that's worth.

Anyway, I'm kind of at my wits end with this thing. I have no idea what to troubleshoot next, or if there's something obvious I'm missing. Any advice or direction would be appreciated.

I don't have a 550, but the side stand switch looks broken from its base.   You should probably look for a new one.  In the mean time, I would push the switch stem and hold it in with something....ziptie..., or something similar, and see if it would start.

....you can always bypass it electrically, but of course that implies some physical serious risks if you forget it is down.....not wise.

Okay I had a feeling that was the case. And for all I know I wasnt depressing it all the way when I turned the key, or it's just totally borked. Will look around and make that my next purchase

The broken switch will stop it starting but shouldn't be effecting the ignition not turning on and the bike being electrically dead. You need to look deeper. have you left a cable off when refitting the battery (main feed to fuse box)

You have bigger problems then the kickstand switch if the dash lights and horn doest work. Seems funny that they worked with the old batt and now they dont . Lights horn blinkers dash should all work regardless of that switch . Obviously you need to fix or by pass that switch but your main issue should be finding out why no power. I would double check those fuses . 

That bracket is bent . See that nub on the kickstand thats suposed to contact the switch .

This is most likely a dumb question, but was the battery fully charged when you got it?

I heard here I think a member saying they are shipping the acid separate. Maybe as Gd4now mentioned the battery is dry.

wrote:

That bracket is bent . See that nub on the kickstand thats suposed to contact the switch .

Yes, your switch braket is bend somehow by someone.

 

New un-sealed lead batterys are shipping bone dry and the sulfuric acid comes in an extra canister for safety reasons!

 
 

This is most likely a dumb question, but was the battery fully charged when you got it?

Ever so slightly below full charge. Definitely enough to start the bike, i planned to just let it idle for a few minutes to get to full charge.

I heard here I think a member saying they are shipping the acid separate. Maybe as Gd4now mentioned the battery is dry.

Factory sealed, pre activated gel-electrolyte battery. I verified the battery had a charge as soon as I got it as well as right after I hooked it up.

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You have bigger problems then the kickstand switch if the dash lights and horn doest work. Seems funny that they worked with the old batt and now they dont . Lights horn blinkers dash should all work regardless of that switch . Obviously you need to fix or by pass that switch but your main issue should be finding out why no power. I would double check those fuses . 

Right, gonna replace all fuses just for peace of mind. Read around and they seem to be AGX format? The 10amps I can find are 250V, the only 20 I could find was 32V, any idea which are the right voltage for these bikes (again, very little electrical knowlege, barely even understand what voltage signifies)?