coil mod / hidden kill switch

Just did wiredgeorge's coil mod last week... the relay kit I bought from O'Reilly auto had all the wiring, a fuse holder, and a switch. After wiring everything up and testing it, I went ahead and put the included switch on the relay switch line and attached it in a hidden spot.

With the switch in the off position, the lights come on, and the starter works, but there is no power to the coils, hence, no running. I figure if I ever park somewhere shady, this will deter the average hooligan with a flathead trying to joyride my scoot.

Anyone else try this on their bike, I soldered the switch in, is there any concern that it may corrode or otherwise mess up the bike?

soldering beats crimp connects anytime disassembly isnt regularly required!remember to use acid core solder.i use the neutral safety switch wiring as a kill switch and mount a toggle switch under tank or under seat where i know where it is,even with the key you cant start it without knowing where switch is at.:whistle: goodluck,happy wrenching!

Cary, which wire did you put the switch onto? The one that feeds the coils from lug 87? I guess you could probablly put it on wire 87, 86 or 36 and it would cut Ign. power.

Did you tape or shrink wrap after you soldered? Then you should be fine.

You don't want to use acid core, that's used on copper pipes, etc. for plumbing. What you want to use is resin-core, that's normal for electronic circuit use.

Sounds like the switch ought to work very well for a theft deterrent, but of course don't forget about it and then run your battery down trying to get it started.
Tony

acid core used for plumbing?thats new to me .ive always used Stay Brite 8,or Bridgit for plumbing or silver solder for big stuff.in my book acid core and rosin core solder are the same thing ,self fluxing solder.

I used rosin solder and wired my kill switch to the #86 trigger line.... If I ever forget that I've left my kill switch off and can't start the bike, chanes are I'm in no condition to ride anyway :blink:

Just my $0.02 worth but I agree with the switch going into the #86 line. I thought the whole point of the relay is due to the juice going down the #87 line?

Hey Cary, I can understand you wanting as many antitheft devices as you can muster, living in the 'boro.

cary wrote:

If I ever forget that I've left my kill switch off and can't start the bike, chanes are I'm in no condition to ride anyway :blink:

Hey, you could be onto something. Like those breath tester things drunks got to blow in before their car will start... If you can't find the switch(es), then you had better walk home.:silly:

The switch could be inline with either of the 86 legs as an open on either one will keep the relay from operating. Generally, a switch inline with the 86 leg from the kill switch would probably be prefered.

However, if someone knows this circuit were installed on a bike, the switch can be bypassed by shorting out the relay from pins 36 to 87. So, a hidden switch in the 36 line might be the most secure.

The safest in terms of safety from a short circuit of the switch or its contacts to the frame would be in the ground leg of the other 86 pin. The worst a short would do here is keep the relay energized.

I guess I ought to shutup and stop confusing the issue. :silly:

- Nate >>

The trick is to re-wire the bike using only one color wire.

I got that trick nailed! haha - I started this project and found that there are differents AMP relays at NAPA - What rated amps is everyone else using?


loudhvx wrote:

The trick is to re-wire the bike using only one color wire.

I've been hearing a lot of positive things about doing the coil mod. Would i see any benefit if i did the coil mod on a bike with a Dyna S ignition and Dyna coils?

tw