Where to buy float valves for Z1 VM28SC's these days?

Just used our last set of NOS Japanese Keyster float valve assys.  They replaced OEM float valves that have 63,000 + miles on them.  Wear rings in the needle tips that can be seen under high magnification, but can't be felt with a finger nail.  The seat still looks good, with just a highly polished ring visible where the needle seats.

Looks like Mama Kaw's superseding  part# flow for complete assys. is from 16030-017 > 16030-025 > 16030-027 (there's conflicting info about that last one).

Looking for knowledgeable advice based on experience, please, on where to buy either OEM Mikuni or high quality aftermarket float valve assys for VM28SC carbs.  CONUS strongly preferred.

Thanks all.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

This chart has dimensions for the various Mikuni float valves.  I suspect those valves are VM28/163 or VM26/26 type float valves.  

Where you run into troubles, is finding the OEM 2.6 size.  Actually, this is not important from a function standpoint, but some people get hung up on details like these.  2.3 is the standard size for Kawasaki family VM26's, and I've never heard of anyone sucking their float bowls dry using them, thus my comment about 2.6 being unnecessary.

There are lots of places that sell Mikuni float valves.  For Keyster, I like Sirius Consolidated Inc.   www.siriusconinc.com/products/detail/565

When rebuilding VM26's, I buy the cheapest Keyster VM kits I can find, and then I use the float valves and gaskets.  Buying this way is cheaper than buying float valves separate sometimes.  

www.jetsrus.com/needle_valve_float_bowl_...l_gasket_mikuni.html



 

Don't be concerned about the variety of Kawasaki part numbers for these sets. Kawasaki didn't make these, Mikuni did. Just head on over to your friendly ebay and type in VM26/26-2.3 or 2.0. Not that you can't use a 2.6 but not necessary and can actually cause problems of overflowing if you forget to turn-off the fuel. Smaller hole size seems to seal better. The 28SC's originally came out with 2.0 then changed to the 2.3 around 1975. The 2.6's were used on the triples. And if you didn't already know, be careful of counterfeits! I buy a lot of Genuine Mikuni bits from "Parts Giant", seem to be cheaper and always come in a sealed Mikuni bag.

Thanks for the replies.

We see that chart Nessim posted at JetsRus as well as a few other sites.

JetsRus has this needle:
www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18-8956.html

We very carefully measured an OEM Z1 needle circa mid '73 that we referred to in the OP.  Sent those dimensions to JetsRus, asking if the needle linked above was similar.  The response was not useful, just the same chart Nessim posted.

Those needles are relatively inexpensive.  We'll happily take one for the team & test a few in a couple of our model VM28SC's that we use for experimentation.  If anyone has experience with the linked needle, please post your findings.

EDIT:  Seems slmjim's test fingernail is less than ideal at discerning tiny wear ring defects in float needles.

The Lovely Z1BEBE wandered by the carb bench & asked why I was so carefully fondling a float needle.  A quick explanation & offer of the magnifier had her evaluating the same needle but, using one of her freshly war-painted fingernails.  She sez, "I can feel that."  Picks up another needle.  Ditto.



Seems slmjim needs to work on his feelings.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

If Jim is considering just buying the "needles" without the seats..don't! Buy them as a set, seat and needle combo. 

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote:

Thanks for the replies.

We see that chart Nessim posted at JetsRus as well as a few other sites.

JetsRus has this needle:
www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18-8956.html

We very carefully measured an OEM Z1 needle circa mid '73 that we referred to in the OP.  Sent those dimensions to JetsRus, asking if the needle linked above was similar.  The response was not useful, just the same chart Nessim posted.

Those needles are relatively inexpensive.  We'll happily take one for the team & test a few in a couple of our model VM28SC's that we use for experimentation.  If anyone has experience with the linked needle, please post your findings.

EDIT:  Seems slmjim's test fingernail is less than ideal at discerning tiny wear ring defects in float needles.

The Lovely Z1BEBE wandered by the carb bench & asked why I was so carefully fondling a float needle.  A quick explanation & offer of the magnifier had her evaluating the same needle but, using one of her freshly war-painted fingernails.  She sez, "I can feel that."  Picks up another needle.  Ditto.


Seems slmjim needs to work on his feelings.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

There is no substitute for the delicate nature of a "woman's touch"   

Awww, You're too kind, BeBe surely appreciates that. Unfortunately/fortunately my first wife's demeanor wasn't anything remotely delicate. She once almost beheaded me with a sharp-shooter shovel, ha. That'll teach me..  

Never buy needles separate.  And never buy K&L float valves either.  The needle in the spring is WEAK.  It won't hold up the weight of the float, which is a good indication of spring health on old float valves.  Mikuni or Keyster are best.

 

Would a KZ650 float valve assy work? I'm seeing the same part number for the gasket/washer:  16029-004. 
The float valve assy part number is 16030-1001.  I don't know what the availability is.
Also, the late 80s Jet Ski JS550 uses the same -004 gasket and the float valve part number is 16030-2066.
The photo at partzilla looks the same as the KZ650 float valve. I've seen the -2066 part on EB.
Someone there on EB listed them as being the same as the -1001 float valves used on the KZ650.  

From the early VM carbed 650's, YES. 

So, are the VM26/26 type float valves correct for those early 28's then?

 

Nessism wrote:

So, are the VM26/26 type float valves correct for those early 28's then?


 

Those do look promising.  Dimensions are in the ball park.  Conflicting info on fit w / VM28SC's depending where one looks.  Hope someone chimes in on fitment.

Related question; pros, cons & experience with viton tip vs metal tip?  May be a moot question anyway.  The originals lasted ~50 yrs. & 63,000+ miles.  If replacements only last half of both, or either, we probably won't be around to care anyway.  We're just looking for replacements sans operating drama.  Feel like we owe it to future generation(s) to assure quality parts & work.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE