Leaky carb.

Hello everyone, it's been awhile since I have needed some advice. Been lucky my bikes been running well. 
the other day I went for a ride and it ran as good as always. When I was done I parked it,and 2 days later I noticed the carberator looked like it was leaking. Anyone know how involving it is to fix this.
thanks mitch

I always shut my fuel off to prevent any leakage into the carbs.

Your carb floats may not be set to the correct level.  What year is the bike?  The carbs look to be '77.

Your floats may be set correctly but one or more float valves may be leaking.

I also always leave my bike on the center stand to prevent fuel from reaching the top of the bowl due to the lean.

Your 40+ years old bowl gaskets need to replaced. Keyster sold rubber gaskets (YFCG-27R) that are much better than the paper gaskets and last longer.

www.motorradbay.de/gasket-c-173-4.html?s...2ee44e745e81a2e427fa

wrote:

I always shut my fuel off to prevent any leakage into the carbs.

I also always leave my bike on the center stand to prevent fuel from reaching the top of the bowl due to the lean.

Same, but I also close my petcock 1/2 a block from home. It helps lower the fuel level in the bowls. I wouldn’t panic to much. If it’s running well it might just be a stuck float or a small piece of shmutzs caught in the float needle and seat. I agree it’s time to swap in some new gaskets. Keyster rubber are my go to also. I’d drain number 4 bowl, pull the float and needle. Clean up the seat with a Q-Tip and reassemble, with the new bowl gasket. Drain the other bowls and swap in the last 3 bowl gaskets. It would be a good time to eliminate the float levels and check them with the clear tube method. 

Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware that it could be more than just the gasket problem. It is a 1977 kx1000a. however the carbs. are micuni. they were on the bike when I purchased it. all so I just purchased A new complete chrome  kerker exhaust. I want to change out the baffle for the 2 inch competition. But there on back order right now. I am sending the pipes out to jet hot to have them ceramic coated. keep them from blueing, and it will help the engine run a little bit  cooler. So after I get the pipes back and get the 2 inch baffle i am planning on taking the bike to a place called jupiter cycle. want to have it serviced and the carbs pulled and cleaned and prolly re jetted, But the main reason that i am bringing it to them is that they have A dyno tune. I am looking forward to seeing the difference this will supposable have on the performance of the bike. Thanks for your response.    

thanks for the advice. I do have a center stand, but im having trouble getting it on it. Seems to me that the bike is to low to the ground and im afraid im gonna dump it over trying to get it on the center stand. But your right I have heard you give this advice out before about putting the bike on the center stand. Makes sense. i am bringing the bike in for service. and i want them to pull the carbs. clean them and go through them and replace anything that needs it. These are micunni carbs. they were on the bike when I purchased it. i also just purchased a new chrome kerker exhaust. So the bike will need re jetted anyway. i will let you know how it turns out. Thank you for the response 

Hey thanks for the advice on the gaskets Keyster it is. I am bringing it in for service at a reputable bike performance shop. so before i do i will order the gaskets and have them use those when they put the carbs. back together. Thank you

I do the same thing I always shut my fuel off. The bike is A 1977 1000a. Someone mentioned keyster gaskets. I will give those A try. Thank you for getting back to me. All you guys are awesome with the help
Mitch

If you're having trouble putting it on the center stand try this....with your left hand grab the left handlebar.  Put your right hand firmly on the rear grab bar.  Use your right foot to lower the center stand to the ground and rock the bike slightly to make sure both sides of the stand are touching the ground.  Then lift with your right leg and right arm.  Your leg has far more power than your arm and is the primary force for putting the bike on the center stand.  You should lift straight up....not backwards.

FYI, it is pretty difficult to tell who you are responding to. It would be easier for readers if you used the QUOTE button, that way the original post will show with your response. Be aware that when you do that, you will need to click on the response window to make a red dashed line appear. At the right end of it will be a red arrow (carriage return). Click it and your cursor will move down below the line so it is really easy for readers to tell the difference between the quoted post and your response.

wrote:

FYI, it is pretty difficult to tell who you are responding to. It would be easier for readers if you used the QUOTE button, that way the original post will show with your response. Be aware that when you do that, you will need to click on the response window to make a red dashed line appear. At the right end of it will be a red arrow (carriage return). Click it and your cursor will move down below the line so it is really easy for readers to tell the difference between the quoted post and your response.

it will look like this.

About the center stand:
If the rear shocks are shorter than stock, and/or if the bike has lowering blocks on the rear shocks, and/or if the rear wheel has been changed to a 16 inch wheel, any or all of those in any combination will make it more difficult to deploy the center stand, because doing so changes the center stand geometry and effective leverage.  If the front fork tubes have been raised in the triple trees that can contribute to difficulty too, but to a lesses extent the rear mods mentioned.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE