1981 GPz1100 B1 Rstomod / ELR "Tribute"

 Hi Folks!

Well, since completing the restore of my GPz 550 D1, I have experienced serious Kawasaki wrenching withdrawl symptoms! The only reasonable treatment is (in my opinion) ... another restore! 

Just before Christmas I laid eyes on a 1981 GPz1100 B1 in fairly beat up condition, but mostly all there and the price was ok, I guess, since these are pretty rare here. 

PO had removed the stock turn signals, the EFI and air-box (with inevitable butchering of the wiring! He mounted a set of Mikuni BS34's with some "cheap" pod filters, and some horrible "spacers" between the carb. boots and cylinder-head, presumably to create "space" for the oil pipes that pass between the head and carbs.
Your guess is as good ad mine.

The exhaust "slip-on" is junk too, and EXTREMELY LOUD, although the headers are "sort of" ok. 
Going to attempt to "roll my own" (pun intended) period Kerker megaphone... (I have a bit of experience rolling expansion chamber cones)

The cylinder-head and barrel have been replaced with those from a 1982 GPz1100 B2, which have no fuel injector mounting holes in the inlet port casting, so there's that!
The B2 cams that were in that B2 head were also transplanted. 
Fortunately, I was able to talk the the shop owner that performed the transplant  surgery. Nice enough chap, but I can't surmise anything as to the workmanship, except to say that there are no oil leaks, and the motor "sounds" ok, having "stethoscoped" the top end using the "long screw-driver-in- the-ear" method. 
He assured me that the valves were lapped and clearances were set mid-spec, but, alarmingly, the valve stem seals were not replaced, which is a bit of a worry.
 
Jetting is off some... the engine exibiting some "hesitation" at low throttle opening, and definately rich at WOT.

Brake rotors are in all-right condition.

Fork seals are toast.

Handlebar controls are a bit sun-beaten, but they will clean up ok, I guess. The RH control has a chip out of the plastic, so I'll see about repairing that with Cyanao baking soda, and a coat of paint.

The seat cover is ripped, and foam has already been "cut" to look like an 1100R, so, on order is a replica ELR seat cover.

The stock B1 clocks / gauges are toast too, but this of no consequence as the plan is to fit a B2 bikini fairing with B2 clocks anyway. 
A couple of days ago, I was extremely fortunate to find B2 clocks in really good condition on Ebay, for a really reasonable price, and also a fairly good looking, complete, 1100R air-box.
The B2 speedo uses a bowden cable drive, unlike the B1, which is electronic, so I searched for, and found, the corresponding front wheel gear-drive (for 7 bucks!)  and pulled the trigger on those three without hesitation!

As I type, a local company is laying up a fiberglass B2 bikini fairing for me, and forming a smoked polycarbonate screen. I'll have to fab the mounting brackets and hardware though, which should be fun! Fortunately, I will be able to measure and 3D model my 550D1 brackets.

Not sure when I will begin, as, I'm still finishing off a 1979 Suzuki GT 200 X5 2-stroke twin engine re-build. (big-end bearings, crank pins, con-rods, main bearings and seals)

However, as is customary here.. take a look at the "before" pictures:

I must just add, that having access to all the amazing, priceless knowledge that everyone on this group so freely provides has given me the confidence to attempt this!

 













 

PS... She's going to be GREEN!

Try and buy  the factory fairing mounts, you'll thank me later, so much easier..{unless you're a fabrication type guy}.  I actually have a set but I'm in Australia and the shipping would kill the deal, I'll probably sell them with the fairing anyway.......

"Try and buy  the factory fairing mounts"... 

The correct fairing brackets I need are: 11036-1349, 11036-1350 and 11036-1439 
I found (on Ebay) the brackets that mount onto the tripple-tree tops (11036-1439) , but at close to 50$ each including shipping, is outrageous!
I've searched far and wide for the other two brackets, left hand and right hand, (11036-1349 and 11036-1350) which are simply not available, anywhere. 

I have access to a CAD, a laser cutter and a lathe at work,  so I guess I have no option but to try to replicate them.
All the more fun!

H.

 

Sucker for a GPz build. I'm in.

Looking forward to following your progress 

wrote:

"Try and buy  the factory fairing mounts"... 

The correct fairing brackets I need are: 11036-1349, 11036-1350 and 11036-1439 
I found (on Ebay) the brackets that mount onto the tripple-tree tops (11036-1439) , but at close to 50$ each including shipping, is outrageous!
I've searched far and wide for the other two brackets, left hand and right hand, (11036-1349 and 11036-1350) which are simply not available, anywhere. 

I have access to a CAD, a laser cutter and a lathe at work,  so I guess I have no option but to try to replicate them.
All the more fun!

H.


 

Maybe someone on the forum could lend you a set to replicate, that would sure make it easier....? 

Awesome…but you won’t be the only one.lol 
Have the same plans for my 81 kz1000J1

... "Maybe someone on the forum could lend you a set to replicate, that would sure make it easier....?"

 Fortunately, my 550D1 uses the same brackets, so I'll be able to measure them!

Also, I plan to 3D print a few other items, like the Kawasaki emblem on the back of the tail-piece, 
   

and quite optimistically, the centre cover on the handlebar:
   

Maybe, even attempt to replicate 1100R side-cover emblems: 
   

 

wrote:

... "Maybe someone on the forum could lend you a set to replicate, that would sure make it easier....?"

Maybe, even attempt to replicate 1100R side-cover emblems: 
 

 


 

I can save you a little time there if you like.  They're not perfect but more than good enough for my purposes.  Happy to share CAD or STL.

BigTex, that would be very helpful, thank-you!

Your 3D renditions look "spot on" 
I am a Solidworks user, so CAD files would be ideal.
(any of the usual formats, STEP, SAT or IGES would be usable)

Cheers.

H.

While I wait for parts to arrive from all over the world...
I modled the badges in Solidworks, then onto my printer...

Here are the first attempts to 3D-print badges:


The process:
The gold (Rustoleum metalic Gold) was  applied in a 2-stage process, because I had no way of accurately masking such small areas.

Preparation, before painting is key to any successful painting job, and my favourite mantra, I repeat, before diving in is:
The Six "P"'s of success: Proper Preparation Prevents Paltry Poor Performance 
( feel free to change the words to suit your vocabulary  )

I first vigorously brushed the printed parts with a hand-held, brass-bristled brush, slightly rounding all the edges, and which produced a nice mat / satin finish on the plastic.

I then sanded the faces that will receive the gold paint as flat as possible with 800 grit dry flatting paper on a sheet of glass.

Then:
 1.  I coated the glass with household floor polish, and buffed it to a shine.
 2. Sprayed a thin coat of gold onto the polished glass. Let dry...
 3. Sprayed another coat, and immediately applied the printed part, face down onto the wet coat, and added about a pound of weight to keep it flat.
 4. WAIT for at least a WHOLE DAY. (this I learned the hard way... rinse, lather repeat!)
    Lifting the part off the glass carefully revealed a nice coated surface!
 5. I then "flood filled" the "R" with red paint, using a medical needle and syringe.

I was quite surprised at the result.
These badges are good enough to be stuck to the cupboard doors,
amongst other paraphernalia, in my work-shop!
It certainly was a lot of fun!

I might try again with some gold leaf that book-binders use to inlay leather book covers...
(Would certainly be a whole lot less effort!)

Here is the result....
 
Side cover badge:


Tail-piece badge:




  

Thats awesome! Good job