Major engine concern (and new member introduction)

Hello all!
Sam here. I  have a 2002 KZ1000P that I have been playing with. It no longer resembles a police bike, and I have mostly just finished up converting it to EFI running on a Microsquirt. Even with a tune that's not fully dialed, it runs very well and makes quite a bit more power than it did with carbs. For the curious, I will quickly outline what I did to get it converted.

-later style Gpz throttle bodies w/ original throttle position sensor. The stock injectors which are basically EV1 style accept fed a hose, were swapped with some Volvo injectors I have a bunch of. I welded up a fuel rail from scratch.

-Fuel is delivered from a Honda Rancher fuel pump assembly, which I just managed to squeeze in there. Its built in regulator makes for a convenient single fuel line to the rail.

-Ignition coil is a early 2000's Subaru wasted spark 'smart' coil, allowing for a compact unit packaged just under the tank between original coil location. onboard drivers for the win, too.

- Ignition trigger is a newer Kawasaki setup, that fits nicely where the original timing rotor went. keyway works and all. I bought 2 of the wheels, and welded just the center from one to the other to space it out.to give room for the sensor.

Now the bad..... this motor has 66;000 miles on it. I have no idea how many are hard police miles. Ive only put about 2-3k on it.

I did all this work, only to realize the thrust bearing/washers (not sure exactly how its setup on these) are SHOT. I have a HUGE amount of crankwalk happening on this thing. Best I can measure, its approximately .080-.090 thousands of movement. I'm including a link to a video on my google drive account. about halfway through the clip you can see it start moving around. this is on the sidestand, which one forum post i read leads me to believe can cause wear of this sort. I'm assuming this bike did a lot of idling on its sidestand during police duty.

I know that this cant be easily fixed. Crank needs to be split etc etc. Cases are likely also worn badly and would need replacement as well.  I may have a line on a replacement motor. But really my main questions is this.
Have you seen this issue this bad and is it going to kill me if i keep riding it in the meantime? I know that's a loaded question and its dumb to not just park it. But the engine is essentially toast in my book, and I will be swapping it when I can. But in the
meantime, it runs GREAT and this issue was unknown until i saw it happening while playing with my ignition trigger setup after the bike was already running and mostly tuned. I hate to not be able to enjoy it some as the weather will be warming up soon here in sunny South Carolina.
Thanks and have a blessed day!

Here's a couple pics, and a video clip of the bike hitting the limiter (and an untuned, rich part of the fuel map)

Lastly, theres a video clip showing the bike idling with a dial indicator on the end of the crank. the fun part you wanna see begins about halfway through the clip.
Please ignore the wobblyness of the bolt. that's just the bolt i used being a little funky and its not hurting anything.





photos.app.goo.gl/na73UqmFgTma5TjA7


photos.app.goo.gl/ri5ep4qtnsPeocNb8

 

Can't answer your question, but that is one of the nicer Police conversions I have seen.

Thanks! The actual look if it just kinda happened without planning. I had bought some random '82 parts from a buddy (fenders, lights etcs) and slapped em on there after painting it black. That combined with the unknown model of origin Harley seat and it does have some cool lines!

Your engine is foreign to me but I'm familiar with Z1/KZ1000 engines, which are similar.  There are no thrust bearings on a Z1 crank.  They rest on ball bearings, which means there should be no side thrust.  Cases don't wear as far as I've seen.  If your crank is wandering it probably means the rods have excessive clearance, and/or the pistons are wearing your cylinders.  How is your compression?

66,000 miles but how much time idling? Or how many quick start-ups and go?
How did you get the foot pegs on there?

There is a thrust bearing on all Z/KZ cranks. But what often happens is the casting upper webbing that has the locating pins cracks. You won't loose the pin unless the casting bit just falls out. Normally the casting around the pin just cracks and that pin wanders.

A photo example of a 1974 Z with the same symptom. Note the missing pin. This is the pin, same as yours #5, that controls side-to-side motion of the crankshaft assembly. The thrust control is built into the bushing that plate each side of that #5 crank bearing in the built-up crank/rod assembly. Just info if it helps? 

I agree with Asphalt900, here is a an upper casing with that alignment pin bore egg shaped because the web cracked. I have another case with all webs cracked. I’m sure that’s what is causing your crankshaft walk. 

Ha Sorry Matt, you have the same problem as me. If i could count the numerous cases I've encountered with this same issue, well id have a tupperware container full of them. BUT don;t despair, i had one fixed on an ole early 1973 Z. But because You have a pedestrian common J motor wouldn't be to hard to find a suitable replacement case sets.  

I am guessing these cracks could be "stitch welded" (no heat) ??

Don't remember, don't have photo examples ,but i took them the crank assembly for reference and they welded the webbing-up and milled out the previous factory hole and sleeved it. This was an ole timey shop  where the cat puffed on a cigar while he was working Magic, Glorious!

blipco wrote:

66,000 miles but how much time idling? Or how many quick start-ups and go?
How did you get the foot pegs on there?



 

Exactly. Police use aint easy on em, I'm sure.
And in response to your inquiry about the pegs, I dont remember what model bike they had come off, but I had too die grinder one of the holes out a bit sideways to get em to bolt up to existing spots on the frame. It was and still is a temporary thing, although they are pretty sturdy. I have the front/rear peg set with the silver mount plate thing that i willl make work eventually. Would you like me to contact you after i do that and I can send you these old ones? Cover shipping and they can be yours. Ghetto looking, but they work.