Kunena Site Syndication http://kzrider.com Wed, 08 Sep 2010 06:16:05 -0400 Kunena 1.0.8 http://kzrider.com/components/com_kunena/template/default_ex/images/english/emoticons/rss.gif http://kzrider.com Kunena Site Syndication http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396759#396969 anyone bled an antidive and have any tips...... Wed, 08 Sep 2010 06:13:23 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396465#396967 OK, what am I missing here.... Liquid cool, water, maybe some anti freeze who knows... Leaks non common but could happen... In the heat of the day, would evaporate, not as slick/slippery... HD oil leaks, very common, leaks like a stuck pig , very slippery, no evaporation or at at least not in a single day.... What's their beef... Oh wait, they lost the race I take it? For the HD owners out there, just having some fun, please ignore me.... :-D Wed, 08 Sep 2010 05:58:11 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396862#396966 5.5" Rim width on the back... The last time I was over at the website, the offsets are now 12mm versus 12.5mm... Unlike our wives , that additional .5mm makes a difference... I could see where a 6" rim would cause some serious modifications... If I remember correctly (yeah right :-D) Mark1122 had to have his rear hub milled down for it... As much as I love my KZ, I'll tell ya, that rear swingarm conversion (math, geometries, angles, measurements, alignments, modifications etc...) really messes with the brain.... :S :-D :-D :-D Wed, 08 Sep 2010 05:39:13 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396515#396965 Naw Plum or lazy sonsabitch is waiting for you to call him for him.... BTW, did you take images of the book, send to the printer have have a book with a bind made for the little Princess yet? Chop-chop there Plum for his majesty is waiting... :S Wed, 08 Sep 2010 05:29:59 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=392640#396964 My rear turn signal havent gotten here yet. The front one dont work but im waiting to put the rears on until i tackle that problem. i figure as long as the headlight, tail light and brake light work I'm good and at lest it looks legal if i get stopped.;) ;) Wed, 08 Sep 2010 03:01:58 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396479#396963 Welcome wizardmc...we have several things in common... KZ1000A1's and Texas :) Wed, 08 Sep 2010 02:59:23 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396947#396961 Video taken on hallowed ground...the Church of the Holy Kaw. :) Wed, 08 Sep 2010 02:55:11 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396951#396960 see the KZ400 forum, 750 engine section. I did write some interesting stuff there (cheap big bore and turbo) Wed, 08 Sep 2010 02:06:09 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396959#396959 what is the valve seat angle of a KZ1100 head? I'm swopping head of my KZ 900 and do need tp perform a valve seat job on the KZ1100 head, model Spectre. It seems to have only one angle but I do not have the specs. Wed, 08 Sep 2010 02:03:33 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=387923&limit=20&limitstart=20#396958 I had a few more people send me 1100 photos. So I made a new slideshow with what I have. If I forgot anyone, I'm sorry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-0w_sdSMiM Okay! I see a couple got in there, that weren't members. I blame Mark, maybe I should of put his bike in the slideshow? Wed, 08 Sep 2010 01:55:11 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=6&id=392350&limit=20&limitstart=180#396957 Thank you Terry. Trust me reading all 9 pages isn't half as crazy as writing most of them Who's the one without the life now??? Wed, 08 Sep 2010 01:36:31 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=17&id=396592#396953 looks like a police bike, I have a 1999 police bike, but im out here in reno nv. wont be able to join you guys. mabe someday. Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:51:12 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=396806#396946 Leon, I pulled out my old right side switch housing. It looks like yours, but I'm not sure. I checked on Bike Bandit's microfiche and they list different numbers for a KZ vs a Z1R. In any case, you're welcome to mine if you think it will work. The guts of mine are torched and it could stand to be repainted, but the metal halves are 100% intact. Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:20:47 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396897#396945 I did, and it was getting what seemed to be a week spark, on cylender 1 and 3, I have been thinking possibly the ic ignighter, Untill I did that compression check cyl.1 60lbs. cyl 2, 60psi. cly. 3, 70.lbs. cyl. 4, 70.lbs. then in the morning she fire right up and after 5 min. running all cyl. 98 to 100lbs. im pulling my hair out at this point. possible baldness by end of week. Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:18:38 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396481#396942 PLUMMEN Could you be a little more specific A link maybe or an e-mail. A search turned up nothing. Marc Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:51:25 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396848#396939 OK thanks guys. I ordered these LED bulbs off ebay. took 3 weeks to come from china but they only cost me 4 bucks (including the shipping). I think ill "hack" one of the bulbs and possibly create a ring around the center bulb. If i decide to buy my own LEDs, what type of ohm resistance would i need if i created an array of lights? http://stfucast.com/img/pxecujyhus.jpg Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:43:03 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396796#396935 Patton wrote: A taller than spec battery likely won't fit past the KZ900's frame into the oem battery location. Even the spec size battery is a tight squeeze into oem KZ900 position. KZ900 battery pushes in from the side. Doesn't drop in from above like the Z1 battery. Good Fortune! :) Hmm...I accidentally got one that was spec'd for the Z1 and not the Kz900 and was able to make fit. There was a metal strip, I'd have to look to remember where it goes, that was already broken on my bike and allowed me to bend it out of the way. It is tight, but the taller battery does fit. Sure makes connecting the leads more of a challenge, though. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:31:34 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396194&limit=20&limitstart=20#396934 Lorcan wrote: My 904 block has 17mm pins, custom rods, 73mm high compression Z1000 pistons and is designed to run on methanol. The 880cc kit was sold by Mike Chestnut of HPU. To date, the 810cc kit is more reliable and faster ;) And that puts the seal and stamp on it. Do you have any pics of the 904 block that I could add to my cycle porn? Thanks for the input, Lorcan! Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:28:24 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396728#396930 Patton wrote: Find several handlebar options at Z1 Enterprises. Good Fortune! :) I looked as I would have loved to added on to the $100 order I placed today but all of theirs were low bars. I don't want anything lower just less pull back. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:17:02 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396404#396924 Thank you Capt America! I already have that one,but the one you linked me to is a lot clearer...awesome. Thanks a lot,you Hooligans! B) Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:06:37 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396685#396919 has anybody ever tried installing the boots for a set of 34s into a stock intake that had 26s-28s origionally? Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:51:27 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396660#396918 JR wrote: jwe2 I think those TK carbs on the 550 have a similar type of float bowl to those on my CV34s where opening the drain screw allows the fuel to run out the overflow nipple. In which case the procedure would be exactly as you described. My mistake! Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:51:22 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396832#396917 one oter thing you will have to be ready for is the Nhra this year has come out in the rules for the motorcycle class even local bracket classes have to have some sort of kevlar reinforcing or at the very least double palm gauntlet type gloves so don't be suprised if they turn you around at tech if you don't have them lots of guy's up here have bought them thru mps as well good guy's to deal with i've been told. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:51:11 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396676#396915 Thanks! Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:49:25 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396699#396905 Automobile freeze plugs might fit to fill the hole, as for the cover, you'll have to fabricate something. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:29:33 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=395445&limit=20&limitstart=20#396904 take a look at any old harley sprint or even a 750 to 1100 virago they used the engine as a stressed member. lots of other examples makes it way easier to pull the engine which is cool when your building crazy hot rods. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:26:43 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396828#396902 15/33 = 2.2:1 17/43 = 2.53:1 Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:17:01 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396758#396899 yes sorry guys 1 and 4 2 and 3 im a big dummy im going out in the morning to attack it again thanks so much for the help...if your in canada and need something painted drop me a line my paint is way better than my wiring skills but always fun to learn Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:05:27 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=389474&limit=20&limitstart=20#396898 Good point. I pulled the carb holders and inspected them. They looked good. I reinstalled them with sealer. You're advice about multiple changes is a sound one. A this point I'm going to wait and see if the correct air filter makes any difference. If not, I'll consider next steps, including replacing the airbox holders and adding the springs that hold them onto the rear of the carbs. Thanks Nick Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:04:10 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395924#396895 I tore into it today and I just about have the starter clutch out. The big question now is what needs to be fixed with it, or what do I need to test or look for? Thanks Nick Tue, 07 Sep 2010 21:52:40 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396276&limit=20&limitstart=20#396889 i got the suzuki education from the head master himself this morning on my way to work! :-D Tue, 07 Sep 2010 21:17:29 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=396818#396881 Welcome El D. I like the paint sceme. B) Tue, 07 Sep 2010 20:47:22 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396811#396880 1197 kit was in it when i got it just refreshed it mild heaqhead work the cams were in it also , the guy who freshend it up for me said they are a lil on the big side for the street but it will be a fun ride.... we shall see Semper Fi ! Tue, 07 Sep 2010 20:45:23 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=161789&limit=20&limitstart=160#396877 It was my brother's, and no, he doesn't have it anymore. Great bikes. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/rstnick/milton6-1.jpg[/IMG] Tue, 07 Sep 2010 20:39:26 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395838#396860 kawsakiman wrote: you don't want the smoothbores. your bike wants the smoothbores. HAHA that big of a difference, huh? i'll get right on that then. like i said, if i can't get them running right, i'll certainly consider letting them go. hell, they might be just fine after being cleaned up. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 20:00:19 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=294594&limit=20&limitstart=20#396858 Leon, if you don't mind - could you send me the file also? Careyvrs@msn.com thx bernhard Tue, 07 Sep 2010 19:20:50 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396782#396845 My wife and I moved from southern California(East San Diego) about 7 years ago to get out of the crowding and increased crime. My Brother and his wife were just back there last week,and he mentioned the crowding and how he almost got rear ended several times from drivers following too close. I miss the beauty of San Diego, but not the way it's become with the crowding. The area has some wonderful roads for bikes like the road to the Hale observatory on Palomar Mountain,the route to Julian,Otay lakes road around the lower lake, and Sunrise highway up into the mountains. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 18:20:30 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=6&id=380084&limit=20&limitstart=340#396826 porchev914 wrote: That is an excellent question Josh, and one I'll be happy to answer. It seems that I have not made the construction of the tank clear. There is no seam on the top. The tank will be two main pieces, a top and a bottom, bonded along the stock seam location. The tank top mold will be in two pieces to get the part out once cured, but the mold halves are bolted together during lamination to form the single piece top. ;) I'm pickin' up what you're layin' down. Good plan. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 16:42:55 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396684#396815 I agree with the previous posts. I would not use a sealer of any kind. "O" rings are good enough. If the ones you have are not the correct size than any Neoprene or Viton seals that fit are fine. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 16:10:20 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396058#396809 I think the original bulbs are 12v 3.4w Stanley bulbs. If you get the 4w ones make sure they look bright enough before you button everything up. It's been a long while, but I seem to remember that I tried 4w ones when I replaced mine and they weren't as bright as the 3.4 (even though I thought they would be brighter). Of course, it could just be my memory that is not very bright. Ed Tue, 07 Sep 2010 15:49:47 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395666&limit=20&limitstart=20#396801 cool bike there jeffasaki!i like how the mach tanks look on the z1r's. [img size=1000]http://kzrider.com/images/fbfiles/images/KZ4-1e0d81bbe1816ec1574f8608749a0ee5.jpg[/img] or versa vicea,hehe.:-D leon Tue, 07 Sep 2010 14:58:46 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=395816#396793 welcome! looks like your negatives are inverted.that is the alternator side we are looking at. leon Tue, 07 Sep 2010 14:38:06 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=396613#396789 I believe that mine already has blade fuses. I pulled the seat when I was looking at her at the time that I bought it yesterday and recall seeing blade fuses. I just looked up '84 fuse boxes on Evil Bay (like this one ---> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-KAWASAKI-GPZ-1100-FUSE-BOX-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518b7c9768QQitemZ350232549224QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories ) and I think that this confirms my suspicion. I will check mine when I get home to be certain. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 14:28:14 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=15&id=385959#396785 Reminds me of the downer watching Bubba's crash on the cool down lap in '89. I was standing right there... Eddie did just miss this carnage. It was horrific. http://www.superbikeplanet.com/2005/Jul/1989usgpb.htm Tue, 07 Sep 2010 14:14:49 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396609#396780 It's an automatic tensioner, user input not required. All you can do is inspect the push rod, sleeve and lock ball for dents/damage, and measure the spring free length. Hopefully you replaced it properly, you can screw things up if you reinstall it improperly. ;) Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:52:39 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=394433#396775 Old Man Rock wrote: Japanese KZ Porn..... ... Yeah baby! ... Are their prices out there as well? Thanks for the woody... I don't know about how much they charge for work, but they want 14000 yen for a set of them metal UK reflectors. That's about 160USD at the current exchange rate. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:37:26 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=21&id=394101#396760 They work my friend built mine from a three horse motor and a capacitor start. He cut the end shaft off so I have to use a capacitor. Issue I have is the kick over switch is fused and it's probably not safe to use at the moment. Need to get some work done and circle back on this thread. The one at his shop is a 7 horse motor and he's looking to downsize as it's overkill for his lathe and mill. Using used parts is the key to make them cheap. He used another small 110v motor and has a peddle to raise it up to the output shaft of the tree phase motor to initially spin it up. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:19:31 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396708#396748 There have been several people complain about PODs on CV carbs. Some preach against it completely. I just picked up a 1000 ltd with PODs and it seems to run ok up to about 7000 rpms and full throttle and then there is a hick up. I am going back to stock as I want to ride the bike and not chase a tuning issue. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:45:32 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396147&limit=20&limitstart=20#396742 interesting.... I did a google search and some guy said the colortune didn't work for him because it wasn't deep enough and the spark wasn't in the same position... probabaly similar to your mention of the 4055d extended thread version... I'll compared the two tonight when I get home. I got a reply back from Sean Morgan saying that they actually re-sell these colortuns and that he hasn't heard of this issue before and they sell lots of these with not many issues. He's forwarding on my issue to the tech department of their supplier and he'll get back to me. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:35:19 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396578#396736 you(or someone skilled at welding aluminum)will have no problem welding them back together.i have done it,and am still running it(clutch perch) and fixing to have to repair the one for my z1r front brake lever as i can't find a replacement. just follow the normal pre weld prep for alu. and weld away it is cast aluminum. leon Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:16:02 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=390747&limit=20&limitstart=80#396733 me likey,post more pics! :-D 1 more for the heathen, leon p.s. i cut old handlebars apart and welded them back together for my last set of bars,and when i highsided my z1r a couple weeks back the right side got folded down by the fork leg :( . i am happy to report that there were no cracks in the welds :-D . not my prefered method of testing,but. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:10:52 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396661#396725 Speaking of Justin, after I saw you guys yesterday, we went kayaking at Slocan Lake. Remember the hotel/restaurant/pub at Slocan City, it's gone! Tue, 07 Sep 2010 11:50:02 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=396653#396718 Vulcan 500 shocks. I'm fairly sure they're a direct bolt-on & ~11.5" eye-to-eye. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 11:12:14 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=340793&limit=20&limitstart=840#396716 I tend to agree with you mark. I just got mama a sewing machine, and I may take a shot at making a stepped seat in the future. I will use the flat one to start out, but I want to make a custom seat as well. That stuff can wait until this thing is making some noise. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 11:05:20 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396677#396713 Welcome SSPGT! I like your choice of handlebars... Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:55:02 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395846#396702 650ed wrote: I've done the air thing on my Chevy truck (350 V8) when replacing valve seals. I didn't worry about TDC, I just used lots of air - no problem. Bike still has originals with no leakage. Ed Bringing to TDC is backup in case you suddenly loose air pressure and the valve slides into the cylinder. http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/9094279_lg.jpg Tue, 07 Sep 2010 09:43:38 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396696#396696 The front brakes are sticking on my newly aquired LTD. I imagine it is the mastercylinder as both sides are sticking but I figure it is a 28 year old bike all three items could use a rebuild. Are there any upgrades? Later model MC or calipers that will bolt on? Not looking to fab anything. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 09:06:04 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396610#396682 Welcome, I bought my kz1000 from a guy who lives in Montreal, picked it up in cornwall. Tue, 07 Sep 2010 07:12:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=347889&limit=20&limitstart=260#396680 Here ya go, save some money! http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-sport-bikes-GPZ-750-TURBO-W0QQAdIdZ220592308 Tue, 07 Sep 2010 06:14:37 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396062&limit=20&limitstart=20#396670 Where did I state that any one country invented any specific engine profile? Just that in my mind... Speaking of "in my mind," mustn't forget: German motorcycles have opposed twin engines!:P Tue, 07 Sep 2010 00:57:19 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396566&limit=20&limitstart=20#396669 i think a smallblock of some sort would be plenty! i bought a chevy c60 fertilizer truck years ago with 6' tall floaters on back and close to 4' tall front ones years ago for beating around the back roads in the winter,but got tired of looking at rusty piece of shit so i cut it up.ah projects :-D Tue, 07 Sep 2010 00:25:27 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396522#396659 That would be great, thanks Mon, 06 Sep 2010 23:32:18 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396098#396642 Well done! Good to see an old gal brought back to life! :P Mon, 06 Sep 2010 22:39:23 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396366#396629 TheHolk wrote: It's a 1978. I had the carbs apart - cleaned everything and checked for wear and tear - the bike just has 13k miles on it, so it's hard to believe that parts are already worn out. I agree. The '78 carbs are pretty much the same as the '77 - no diaphragms or other rubber bits to teat or split. Are you sure the choke it working ok? The KZ650 don't like to run cold with the choke off. Also, I'm assuming it has the stock airbox & filter. Is that the case? Ed Mon, 06 Sep 2010 21:48:04 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396488#396607 Dyna hoooked just like other 900 that one runs great, it's the other that is the problem. I really don't know much about bike have'nt had it that long. From wantI'm reading this is a 1974 Z1A motor on a 1978 1000 A2 frame which creates problems with correct wiring diagrams. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:05:00 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396499#396602 Thanks for your input, I am aware and capable of rigging something up, I prefer however to use a factory piece if I can find one. Thanks Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:46:05 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396596#396596 I have this set up for sale in the clasifieds. cannot post photo there so here is a photo [IMG]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q193/gregjanko/stuff749.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q193/gregjanko/stuff858.jpg[/IMG] Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:18:19 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396431#396595 There are certain gunsmithing places that measure their lead times in the passing of haley's Comet as well....... but, they are kind enough to take a deposit then notify you a couple of weeks before your "spot" in line comes up so you can send it in and get it back in the same year. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:16:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396474#396579 yeah i checked them out but they don't have that exhaust listed on their webpage, only the kerker, but i will give him a call. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:56:28 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=395878&limit=20&limitstart=40#396564 Lorcan wrote: taildragger1197 wrote: For some reason(beer?) I thought we were talking about stock 900/1000 times. Then Plummen pulls out his big bore street fighter. I will now quietly cower in the corner. My 760cc turbo ran 5.61 ten years ago. Plummen's turn in the corner... ;) we'll see if i ever get big bike done,but ill let you pilot it! im due for new pacemaker in next few months,i think 6.18 is about all my pacemaker is good for ! :-D Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:41:34 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396532#396546 I believe the last name had an "i" in it, maybe Maillet or Malliet Mon, 06 Sep 2010 16:19:00 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=6&id=391070&limit=20&limitstart=20#396540 I will put some more pics up tomorrow. I have them at my shop. Yes I had to mod the frame a bit to make the tank fit. if you look closely to the front where the old tank used to mount, I cut out the triangle shaped metal pieces that had the rubber mounts for the old tank. I used 2 tabs that I cut off the back of the frame and welded them to the under side of the backbone. I also made a tab in the middle of the back side of the tank so it has 3 mounting points. Also I had to cut 3 sections of the frame out and invert them and weld back in to make clearance for the bumps on the bottom of the tank. I will take some close up pics of it for you tomorrow. The reason all this had to be done is because the tunnel on the stock tank is in the shape of a V , but the sporty tanks tunnel is a straight U shape. If you dont cut the frame up it will sit on the bike funny and not fit right. If you are looking to do this I will put more in depth pics of how it was done. Pretty easy if you have the right tools. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 15:59:43 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396533#396534 The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem! Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton) 1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery. 2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. 3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead: 3.1 A 12 V light bulb, 3.2 A 12 V test light, 3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or, 3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea. 4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing. 5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing. 6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ). 7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet. 8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement. 9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ). 10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets. 11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done. 12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 15:28:30 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396424#396528 Thanks for the welcome, lots of good info here, most likely will be tapping into the knowledge bank. Mike Mon, 06 Sep 2010 15:19:07 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396507#396521 I think (but memory is fuzzy), is the A3 is electronic ignition? B3 is points. The E model is electronic in 79. Either way, I didn't see an A3 diagram in the filebase. Can't use (some or all) 78 diagrams since they use seperate reg and rec. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 14:53:19 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396491#396518 Sounds like it is too lean. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 14:24:46 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396471#396489 I just put the charger on my battery and only after 1 hr on the 2A setting it registered full. I tested it and the voltage is only 12.65V. Is it not supposed to be 14.5V? Mon, 06 Sep 2010 12:44:56 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396322#396480 Personally, I wouldn't even consider using the big torque wrench. The bolt holes strip very easily. If you follow the method laid out by Larry C in that thread I linked you won't have a problem. When you set your timing, then turn your engine over a few times and recheck, the chain links won't be in the same spot. At least every time I've done it and checked, it's been like that. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 12:11:36 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396442#396470 I did find the 530 to be much smoother. I just called Jeff at Z1E and he set me up with what I needed. I just told him what ratio and he has his own program to figure out the chain length and sprocket conversions. A word of warning. 'make sure that you loosen the front sprocket BEFORE you remove the chain'. It will make life a lot easier. I also like the Tsubaki "Sigma" chains. They seam to have the best longevity. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:33:59 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396139#396448 Muddy... Get your electrical fixed first for you may be surprised what a new set of coils will do for that KZ...;) New coils, plug wire set, Dyna 3 ignition with ideal voltages being supplied and you'll gain some surprising response from the old girl.... Valve clearances in spec, timing advancer operating correctly, no vacuum/exhaust leaks and you'll be doing triple digits... Hang on honey.... Mon, 06 Sep 2010 10:05:20 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=394052#396447 Ok, I think I've fixed it. I should have done this first, but I'm a total noob when it comes to mechanics. I took off the tank, flushed it and cleaned out the petcock (had some gravely junk in it) and replaced what looked like an ancient fuel filter that on top of everything else was installed backwards. I think the junk in the petcock and the bad fuel filter were inhibiting fuel flow to the carbs. Fuel was getting through but at a slower than normal rate. After riding for a while, I'd eventually out pace the ability of the clogged filter to supply fuel to the carbs, the bike would loose power and die. After sitting for a couple minutes, enough fuel would trickle down into the bowls to get me started again. After cleaning the fuel line and replacing the filter, I went for a ride and was out for about an hour with no problems. So I think I'm all fixed! At some point in the process I took the carbs out and cleaned the bowls and jets, so hopefully any junk that made it past that cruddy filter has been cleaned out too. Thanks for all the help. The tip about carrying a spare plug with me helped me figure out I was getting spark and it had to be a fuel problem. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 10:04:12 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=216290&limit=20&limitstart=420#396433 The Earl motorcycle design is curved back to fit under a frame eck area.... The unit is rateher small in height and thickness in design for a 10 row cooler... B) Curved forward would catch wind like a sail but also pending fork widths, Neck rake/angles etc... may decrease your turn radius pending installed locations... AZ Emissions... Yearly requirement here... Mon, 06 Sep 2010 08:57:16 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395034#396432 650ed wrote: By big, are you more than 350 or so? I'm 195 and my wife is around 115; we've never had any weight related issues on my stock KZ650C1. In fact, I'm always surprised that it's as quick as it is when we're riding 2-up. Ed 375 ish. I don't get that "pull" in 1st or second gear, but when I get to third it really pulls. Not sure if thats tranny/ gearing related or not. I also never go above 5k in any gear except 5th. I don't know why, but it just seems like its not pulling anymore and the motor screams at that RPM. It seems to me that with a 9k redline, I should be revving higher, but it just seems like it's running high, so I shift. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 08:56:35 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395443&limit=20&limitstart=20#396429 Not that it will help you with a 630 chain, but tractor supply has 50-series masterlink set (4) . I mangled my original clip from Z1, and used the clip from that kit. Been working fine. It was non o-ring, but the clip was the same. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 08:48:38 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395519#396426 I find the closer the temp gets to 40 deg F, the harder mine is to start. I just thought they were "cold blooded" so I'll let it run on the choke before I take off. But the closer it gets to 40 deg F, the less I want to ride. :S Mon, 06 Sep 2010 08:44:22 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396395#396417 Welcome, I'm up in Kissimme home of the big rat. I like what you have done so far, my son is driving me crazy to build a bobber, I geuss thats next. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 06:48:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=396216#396406 TeK9iNe wrote: Dont forget a 30 backcut on the valve ;) Thanks for the advice guys! I didn't really know wich angle to cut first. The machinest did mention you have to dress every time you take the stone off. The guy who has the tools said to practice on a junk head and even offered one. The valve job that is on the 78 100 Is only two angles, maybe they pounded out? I can clearly see the seat cuts are narrow on one side and wide on the other on maybe every seat. The guides are pretty tight and that's strange. The speedo on the bike says 25,000. I pretty much know the guy that owned it did nothing to the motor and had the bike for many years. He does not know how to do this anyway. I don't know if you mentioned the stone dressing heavy and light (Larry) on your first post because I cannot see the post for some reason. He wanted to order a pilot from goodson for 100$. I told him to wait in case I could find one cheaper. That seems alot of money for one pilot especailly since everyone says the stones don't cut the seats very good anyway. Seems to me that once something better comes along the old stuff is suddenly junk. Kindof like the relationship thing. I'm not stupid and don't need to be told to folow the rules :P If I want to fk something up I'll do it. And maybe then I'll learn the answers to the things no one seems to be able to answer. :-O I'm gonna cut those angles and WILL be perfect. It's attitude not hype that gets the job done. All the tech help in the world won't do it. Thats my story and I'm stickin to it. omar if your reading this, you need an emblem on the side cover of your bike. B) Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:00:59 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396282#396398 bikerjim wrote: Should this be done hot or cold? FSM gives good instructions, but fails to mention whether should be warmed up first. HOT. Runt the engine full hot, shut off. Put a floor fan on the pipes for a few minutes to cool them off some them adjust away. Mon, 06 Sep 2010 00:47:53 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=379971&limit=20&limitstart=20#396390 Carbs Cleaned......Anyone ever painted the bowls and covers? I am thinking of painting these because I don't think they will polish up very well. I also painted the bracket that holds the exhaust as well as some other bit's. [IMG]http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/ottoblum/81kz650/CIMG0009-4.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/ottoblum/81kz650/CIMG0005-3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/ottoblum/81kz650/CIMG0002-4.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/ottoblum/81kz650/CIMG0003-4.jpg[/IMG] Mon, 06 Sep 2010 00:27:19 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396307#396387 Thanks, Ed. I'll definitely post some more pictures as I do work to it. Sun, 05 Sep 2010 23:57:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396333#396382 I believe Progressive bought S&W, but I don't think the shocks are rebuildable (although the springs can be easily replaced). If you haven't tried them on the bike you may be surprised to find that they still work fine. When I took mine off about 3 years ago they still worked great. I only replaced them (with Hagons) because I wanted more of a stock look. Ed Sun, 05 Sep 2010 23:38:38 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=6&id=387769&limit=20&limitstart=80#396370 Pinstriping is one of those skills that just mesmerizes me. Just watching this video will bring your blood pressure down by 10pts. Hang in there until the 4:00 mark where he signs his name with the brush. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsdtyhJRgbk&feature=related Sun, 05 Sep 2010 22:43:45 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396253#396338 otakar wrote: A rear wheel and swingarm from a 77/78 KZ1000 would be a direct bolt on. Same with the front brakes. The harder part will be mounting the rear master cylinder. You will have to weld on some brackets for thtat. kz1000 swingarm needs to be narrowed maybe 1/4" total on pivot tube Sun, 05 Sep 2010 20:13:27 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396331#396337 looking good Sun, 05 Sep 2010 20:10:35 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396084#396334 Man, would I love to find a 5.5 x 18 Akront rim for sale here. Anyone? Or any brand 18" rim, excel, akront, d.i.d.? Don't want the new 17in style. I want a 40 hole, 18" rim ring 4-5 inch. Marty in buffalo Sun, 05 Sep 2010 20:05:31 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=394647&limit=20&limitstart=20#396324 mark1122 wrote: interesting. i wonder if u would even notice on the street.? a stock harley feels fine on the street, but isnt much good at the track. :) Mark I definitely notice the suspension "feel" change as I ride my other bike on the street. Either a long ride or a hard ride will make it feel quite harsh. I know what's inside the fork on that bike, but I haven't touched the shock yet, and it's overdue for a rebuild. I would suspect that foaming oil that has lost it's viscosity from overuse could contribute to a loss of dampening. Sun, 05 Sep 2010 19:03:32 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=395496#396321 call z1e. they may have them, and are very helpfull. Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:26:32 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=390328&limit=20&limitstart=60#396315 Wow over two weeks since I posted last. Did the above test so no power drain :) Cleaned all my connections and heat shrinked them tight. I did find that one of my connections from the wired George mod was loose, as well the black wire from my starter button was loose, and the blue turn signal wire was loose. So three wire loose may have caused a short. These are all fixed now. New ignition is installed and timing is set No riding today since its raining ug. but once it stops the beast will run again I hope ;) Sun, 05 Sep 2010 17:58:37 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=8&id=396246#396314 kzrider wrote: We will be upgrading the forum software in a while, and that will give us way better search capabilities. It's not only a matter of upgrading the forum though, since the whole site needs to be rewamped. It will take some time, and there will be a lot of changes to the site. I'll put a notice on the front page when I've planned the whole thing out. Thanks Stein! Sun, 05 Sep 2010 17:55:15 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=396301#396303 this would normally be caused by poorly seating float needles. Remove them and inspect for issues. check that the screen above them doesn’t have rust in them. if they do, check the tank. also verify that the float level is correct, do a bench measurement, then after they stop leaking , by using the clear tube test. Sun, 05 Sep 2010 16:42:50 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396286#396289 Imo, should use factory spec battery, and would check the bike's charging system. Good Fortune! Sun, 05 Sep 2010 14:29:06 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=396205#396284 On most motorcycles, the battery must be fully charged for good ignition. If the battery cells are weak, then spark energy will be affected too. Having clean and tight battery connections(no corrosion and the cables should not move when pulled on)is the first thing I look for when someone mentions no power. The Negative(-) battery terminal going to the engine mounting bolt is overlooked a lot. It's purpose is to have the voltage return back to the battery after doing work. Sun, 05 Sep 2010 14:02:48 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=396208#396261 THanks psrumors! I am in Marietta off chastain and 575 pm sent! Sun, 05 Sep 2010 11:31:16 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=396211#396254 I run 33T's on my '75 and '76 900's. It is a much more relaxed, smooth ride. Around town riding is fine too. As racer54 mentioned, it does make a bit of difference in your take off speed so if that is top priority for you, you may not like it. Sort of a tough call. For me I don't even think about it. Mine are stock 903 motors and they are plenty fast enough for my riding style. I much prefer the 33T gearing over the 35T. Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:58:31 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395574&limit=20&limitstart=20#396249 I'm guilty as well. stripped out 2 cap bolts just trying to establish valve clearences. You gotta' R&R the cams like 10 times to get the lash correct. I do machining by trade, so ALL my M6 holes are now helicoiled ! Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:29:46 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395954#396240 Thanks everyone. I've seafoamed the last two tanks of fuel. Things seem to be smoothing out. also adjusted the idle, as that the PO had it set way too high. Only got 120 miles out of the last tank! We'll see if the idle improves that any. It hasn't leaked from the overflows in a day or so, so maybe that is going to clear up as well. Petcock is of course still trashed, but I am waiting on parts. Sun, 05 Sep 2010 09:45:30 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=395536#396234 Good looking LTD :) I really like the stock look. Larry C Sun, 05 Sep 2010 09:09:05 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=394824#396186 cool! B) Sat, 04 Sep 2010 23:00:17 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=395122#396164 http://kzrider.com/images/fbfiles/images/bike2-7341ebd1d715910ccf9d4613ae20ccb1.jpg HA HA, comedians...got a few pics up now. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 22:01:41 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=396154#396163 http://kzrider.com/images/fbfiles/images/bike5-209ec3d6db584d31faf7dd426b265d4e.jpg I'll have to study on photobucket..lol. Thanks for compliment, thats a nasty lookin wheeler u got on there looks like an awesome get-me-hurt ! Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:58:38 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=396088#396151 Mine is same color as this one,but real dirty having set up in storage for 8 years or so.It will be a great winter project.bj Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:33:41 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=396126#396128 welcome to z-jungle! B) Sat, 04 Sep 2010 20:26:36 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=6&id=395881#396113 From one painter to another, it looks nice man. I like the mid coat. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 19:28:29 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=6&id=396106#396111 the kz400 i had was brown,if it had been that color i might have fixed it! :-D Sat, 04 Sep 2010 19:17:40 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=394358&limit=20&limitstart=20#396099 [img size=1600]http://kzrider.com/images/fbfiles/images/IMG00258_20100904_0828.jpg[/img] This is what the Suzuki gasket looked like when I pulled the pipes off Sat, 04 Sep 2010 18:40:02 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=392016&limit=20&limitstart=40#396093 stonemaster wrote: oh great, see thats what I'm talkin about, I got a colortune as well, havent opened it yet but now ... everyone says Oh they're great , but now Issues ???? same with the carb sticks ... Motion Pro w glycol sucks, period that i KNOW. I will make it work with some bastardization (one of my specialties) but now the Colortune ....$@#% !!!, Nah, the colortune does it's job just fine. I'm just not sure it was worth the money I spent on it. I've never had a cyl with the screws set to the reg position (1.5 turns out) that needed more than a tiny adjustment. I can see it being more useful if you were having jetting issues or were figuring settings for aft-market carbs, etc. If it were significantly cheaper I'd be happy to give it a 100% recommendation Sat, 04 Sep 2010 18:19:51 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395986#396076 This is a list of models all using the same rotor...came from the Mother Kawasaki site...the part is still available new and I suspect there a bunch of used ones around. Model (37): KZ1000-J1 (1981) KZ1000-J2 (1982) KZ1000-J3 (1983) KZ1000-K1 (LTD) (1981) KZ1000-K2 (LTD) (1982) KZ1000-M1 (CSR) (1981) KZ1000-M2 (CSR) (1982) KZ1000-P1 (Police 1000) (1982) KZ1000-P10 (Police 1000) (1991) KZ1000-P11 (Police 1000) (1992) KZ1000-P12 (Police 1000) (1993) KZ1000-P13 (Police 1000) (1994) KZ1000-P14 (Police 1000) (1995) KZ1000-P15 (Police 1000) (1996) KZ1000-P16 (Police 1000) (1997) KZ1000-P17 (Police 1000) (1998) KZ1000-P18 (Police 1000) (1999) KZ1000-P19 (Police 1000) (2000) KZ1000-P2 (Police 1000) (1983) KZ1000-P20 (Police 1000) (2001) KZ1000-P3 (Police 1000) (1984) KZ1000-P4 (Police 1000) (1985) KZ1000-P5 (Police 1000) (1986) KZ1000-P6 (Police 1000) (1987) KZ1000-P7 (Police 1000) (1988) KZ1000-P8 (Police 1000) (1989) KZ1000-P9 (Police 1000) (1990) KZ1000-R1 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1982) KZ1000-R2 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1983) KZ1100-A1 (Shaft) (1981) KZ1100-A2 (Shaft) (1982) KZ1100-A3 (Shaft) (1983) KZ1100-B1 (GPz) (1981) KZ1100-B2 (GPz) (1982) KZ1100-D1 (Spectre) (1982) KZ1100-D2 (Spectre) (1983) KZ1100-L1 (LTD Shaft) (1983) Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:20:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395730#396064 Patton wrote: One neat thing about the manual petcock is ability to turn fuel flow off a short distance before reaching home and allowing the engine to idle until the float bowls empty just before pulling into the garage. I like the idea of parking with float bowls empty, just in case it's a few days before again running the engine. On the diagram Motorhead posted, where is the second diaphragm and plastic piece mentioned? Good Fortune! :) I second that! I always shut the fuel off when I turn onto my road. The carbs are almost dry by the time I pull into the barn. This helps keep the jets from varnishing up if the bikes sits for a few weeks. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 14:35:05 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=396000#396060 So basically, as long as I get a single disk MC with a flat mounting angle for 7/8" bars, I'm good then? (gonna use a bar end mirror) All the newer bikes are gonna have small MC with remote reservoirs correct? Sat, 04 Sep 2010 14:26:04 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395896#396056 ok so I think I got it figured out. syncing the carbs is just making sure that all the butterflies are opening exactly the same amount at the same time right? At least that is what I gathered from all the reading I have done. thanks for all your help. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:49:03 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=352129#396053 Thanks for the suggestion. No one responded to my CL ad, and the kawi dealer won't trade old ones for new, so I'm gonna have to buy 5 shims, install, re-measure and cross my fingers. Good news is that if some of them are the wrong size, the shop will trade me for the ones I just bought from them. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:37:28 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395879#396052 Thanks guys. I think I got it. I just had them hooked up wrong. I had the left coil going to 1&3 and the right coil going to 2&4. It still started up and ran but I guess it was wrong. thanks Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:37:26 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395812#396050 Got up bright and early to go through the bike ... Cylinders: DEFINITELY compression is good on all four. The "thumb test" got a definite loud hiss and my thumb was pumped right off the plug hole on all four cylinders. I have a few KZ bikes so i have switched out the coils/caps with a new ignition from another KZ650 this a.m. to see how that goes. Also, I plan to rig up a test fuel tank, fill the carbs, then drain them to see how much fuel is getting to each one. If they are all filling, i'll hook up a gauge and check the carb balance. Right now i am thinking when I rebuilt the carbs i flubbed a step or just plain screwed up the bench sync. It did run and run fairly smoothly and rev nicely before i started all these checks. So I am of the opinion it isn't something catastrophic just i need to double-check some of my work. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:23:05 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395851#396034 does he have any extra he would be interested in getting rid of. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 11:03:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395854#396031 http://www.gearingcommander.com/ Sat, 04 Sep 2010 10:53:08 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=394867#396026 I put the carbs back in after installing the remainder of my carb rebuild kits (main, pilot, and needle). Of course she cranks but won't start. I'm going to pull the rack again and put the old needles and pilots back in and see if I can't get her running again. One of these days I'd really like to go riding... Sat, 04 Sep 2010 10:14:16 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=384840&limit=20&limitstart=200#396014 Sorry, I didn't see your last post. In the realm of really cheap I know of two decent options. The easiest is to see if you can use a battery load tester. You can usually borrow one from Autozone or O'riellky's but only if you use it in the parking lot. If you know what you want to do you can usually fully test an isolated charge system in just a few minutes. The upside of this way is you can put a load on the alternator/rr circuit to see both it's current and voltage outputs at the same time. Then you have the option of garage leisure. Go to a parts store or TSC or Atwood's and buy and ammeter like you would put in a triple guage mount. It won't give you real precise readings but that's okay. you're just looking to see that your loads don't swing that needle very far either direction from the middle. The type of thing you're looking for is pretty major and should show up on one of those. Just remember you have to wire it in series with the load you're looking at and it can't have any loop around the meter. The cheap meters that measure clamp on ac current could be used to measure current coming out of the alternator before it gets to the rr, but yeah, they're nearly worthless of automotive. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 06:54:20 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395850#396009 1tirefire wrote: ...just bought a 1984 ltd700...No compression.... Hello, Rodney, and WELCOME to KZR! :) We're glad you're here! If not already done, would check valve clearances. Good Fortune! :) Sat, 04 Sep 2010 02:51:15 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395933#396003 tmstoltz wrote: ...suspect the ic ignighter and the battery my battery is 2 1/2 years old but kept on a batt. tender it shows a charge of 12.4 volts mabe this is not enough for the first start with cold cylenders...batt. feeds the ic unit the ic unit feeds the coils. Would have battery load-tested . It's a free service at many auto parts stores such as AutoZone and others that sell batteries. Battery+ voltage runs from battery > fuse > ignition switch > on-off-run switch > ignition coils. Ignition coils are grounded and ungrounded via wires running through i.c. igniter to pick-ups at crankshaft. Good Fortune! :) [Click on image to enlarge view.] http://kzrider.com/images/fbfiles/images/voltage_coil_loss_2-0a785fa84c440bacedb102910db23521.png Sat, 04 Sep 2010 01:49:00 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=390037&limit=20&limitstart=20#395985 m'kay.. i just got off the phone with this guy who has like 5 craftsman lawnmowers sitting in his lawn that he wants gone. He said he would take 15 bucks each and i could pick out whatever one i wanted to use. So, i will be going to tractor supply i think next week for some fenders and maybe some wheels and tires. I already have some plates of iron to weld up the mounts for the KZ400 engine. like i said, the engine is out, its just a matter of removing the Briggs and dropping this motor in. Also, i decided not to make the frame from scratch, obviously:D so the lawntractor is the way to go i think. Im still going to use the single carb setup too, im thinking of using an old BS36 from a KZ1000 parts carb set maybe to see how it runs without spending any money on a keihin. Ill keep you guys posted!! Sat, 04 Sep 2010 00:42:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=395947#395982 Thanks Grantl, I agree about the bars. I have never been a fan of those. If I get it, she will be riding it solo. She has been riding for 15 yrs, and can handle her father's 1964 Panhead, so I'm not worried that the bike might be too big for my little woman. Are there any gotcha's on the 998cc motors, or the 82 model bikes in general. I figure $600 is fair for a running bike with a title that needs body work and carb cleaning, but I will try and get it cheaper if possible. I can fix the tank an re-paint it. If I decided to flip this bike quickly, what would it be worth if it had good paint, and it ran properly? $2000, $1500? Sat, 04 Sep 2010 00:26:47 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=387699&limit=20&limitstart=20#395966 oldest bike to do the hole trip problem free my step dad did well he only broke a clutch cable and at a HD rally it was nothin to have one made. Fri, 03 Sep 2010 23:42:53 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=392703#395936 ed spangler wrote: TEKNINE Hard for me to see the brand, what brand is this and if you would please tell me why ytou prefer this one? THANKS!!!! ED :-D Its a Carbtune Pro II from Morgan. You can get one here: www.carbtune.com (www.carbtune.com) We prefer the carbtune unit because it reads the same vacuum in the dead of winter and the scorch of summer, as we use it on just about everything that requires consistant vacuum readings year round. Anything with liquid cant compare. The Really accurate dial guages are not bad though. Cheers. B) Fri, 03 Sep 2010 22:33:17 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=376437#395931 blipco wrote: Any chance you have a heal toe shift lever you don't need any more? Thanks, Mark blipco@yahoo.com Sorry man, I actually just sold it on e bay :( I did spend some time re working the seat profile, and came up with a design that it hitting home with me. I am now starting to really get enthused about this project. Winter is approaching, so I should be hitting this a lot heavier durring the un ridable months. Here's a piccy: [IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w55/rlb454/IMG_2832.jpg[/IMG] Now I just need to start carving the foam for the seat mold.... Fri, 03 Sep 2010 22:10:51 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=391682#395922 update on progress with the project need some help, can somebody take some pics of the battery box top left and right, i need to see how it goes together. Fri, 03 Sep 2010 21:03:11 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395847#395920 PMed. Also, I'll look into those aftermarket gauges when I get home. I'm gonna guess they cost a lot of dollars, but maybe when I get a job I'll get fancy. Fri, 03 Sep 2010 20:44:01 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=393959#395873 bountyhunter wrote: bgulsvig wrote: I was tinkering with it last night and tried to adjust the carbs. I let it idle for a full ten minutes. During that time I tried different settings of the pilot screws. At one point I had them both screwed all the way in and seated. There was no change in idle speed. Is this normal? I tried one, two, even three turns out with no change in RPM'S. Would this suggest the pilot passage problem? I again pulled the plugs and found one normal and one completely black Definitely not normal, there is something very wrong with a carb that does that. Pilot circuit could be hosed up or maybe the choke circuit is putting in enough gas and the bike is running off that? You should first set the fuel levels using clear tube. The BS-38 carbs on the B models have the jets in the bowl. Drop the bowls (take out the drain screws) and soak them in cleaner and spray them out. If not done' drain and rinse the gas tank. Clean petcock and install filters in gas lines. BTW: the pilot screws set at about 2 full turns out from bottomed for first adjustment on mine. +1 Its not ignition related problem. If spark was weak on #1 plug it would cause identicle issues in the other #4 plug as spark travels through both plugs. If a connection problem exists it shows up on both plugs/cylinders/headerpipes. Good Luck! B) Fri, 03 Sep 2010 15:22:44 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=394477&limit=20&limitstart=20#395834 stonemaster wrote: TeK9iNe wrote: Maybe you should read more carefully, from the beginning. B) 1.I didnt say anyone said, 2.read post 11, #5 now you were saying ...Open mouth...insert foot. Thats what I get for working nights. Totally missed that... Peace. B) Fri, 03 Sep 2010 12:35:34 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=13&id=395162#395822 Thanks for the post...many of us are aware of that site but it doesn't hurt to draw attention for the more recent members. My understanding is that the manual is a nice free download but that the bottom of each page is truncated. Fri, 03 Sep 2010 11:41:12 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=376079&limit=20&limitstart=20#395815 I was tinkering with it last night and tried to adjust the carbs. I let it idle for a full ten minutes. During that time I tried different settings of the pilot screws. At one point I had them both screwed all the way in and seated. There was no change in idle speed. Is this normal? I tried one, two, even three turns out with no change in RPM'S. Would this suggest the pilot passage problem? I again pulled the plugs and found one normal and one completely black Fri, 03 Sep 2010 11:17:49 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395782#395807 then you will the richer jetting to make the bike work decent. Fri, 03 Sep 2010 10:18:01 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=381431&limit=20&limitstart=20#395775 I am selling the KZ, money is tight. PM me if interested or email me at mcnizzle812@yahoo.com or call at 808-352-6122, the bike and I are located in Redondo Beach California. It needs very minor work. I am asking 2000 obo. Fri, 03 Sep 2010 01:45:03 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395665#395774 otakar wrote: Yes the rear wheel will interchange but the front will not without a new tree. thanks for the help, what about the rear sprocket will it change the gearing and also do i need to shorten me chain? Fri, 03 Sep 2010 01:03:33 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395137#395773 The earlier Z1's and Kz900's are wired differently than the bikes of the 80's with seperate regulators and rectifiers. Color codes on the wires are again diferent. If it were me, I'd contact www.z1enterprises.com and order a combo reg/rect. A member here(Old Man Rock) recently had to replace his rectifier as it developed a short in one of the diodes on his bike. I believe he used a combo unit with no problem. Fri, 03 Sep 2010 00:50:29 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395501#395759 daveal wrote: As my bike didn't come with a stock seat, just an overstuffed Mustang easy chair, I'll be on the lookout for at least a decent seat pan. Thanks for the info. By the way, how did you come up with that info? 1. Do you have one of each bike for comparison? 2. You've lived and breathed Kaws forever? 3. There's a reference out there somewhere with all that data? 1. no 2. yes 3. yes... www.kawasaki.com has almost every kwak exported to or made in the US, on searchable microfiche. It is a trick to get to learn how to navigate on the site, but worth the effort. I also have microfiche and a microfiche reader for all kz650-750-900-1000-1100-1300 made between 1972 and 1984...and microfiche crosslisting of all Kawasaki parts. :) Thu, 02 Sep 2010 23:40:01 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=394791&limit=20&limitstart=20#395756 i looked last night for a pan on ebay, there wasnt one. but ill keep an eye on it. as for fitment the 750 spectre has the same seat, i just dont know if any of the bigger bikes seats will fit or not. i didnt work today so i thought id tinker on the bike, well she started and ran, so i pulled the tank and checked the fuel petcock and it seemed to work ok as well, ran the bike off a lawn mower tank for a few min and it ran well then too. so i was faced with a delima, what do i do bout the apart seat? i wire brushed the top of the pan lastnight, and that left some big holes and some very thin spots. That all got covered with a coat of prep prime. so i thinking i wanted to ride, i grabbed a roll of duct tape, the old seat cover, foam and pan n taped it all back together. lol couple wrapps arround in spots the wont get cut by the frame and i was in business. between three rides today i had to have put close to 30 plus miles on her and she ran like a dream, to day was cooler though, high bout 75, tomorrow is supposed to be warmer and even more so into the weekend. so ill just have to ride her n see what happens. Nothing like having to ride your motorcycle in good weather. lol ;) as for the seat pan, ill find a better one, and probably still try n weld this one up, gotta have an excuse to play with my new wire welder too. ;) Thu, 02 Sep 2010 23:30:08 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395687#395719 ledhead012 wrote: I recently picked up a set of rings for a '77 kz400 D4 on ebay, only to find one small detail left out of the listing: the rings are 2 sizes over. flash forward to two weeks later - two parts dealers notified me a week after ordering that Kawasaki no longer manufactures the part (even though both websites listed the item in stock )Well I'm just about to give up hope tryna track down the last part needed for my rebuild, and thought i'd put my faith in you fine fellas for a reliable NOS dealer. All input is greatly appreciated. Brand new KZ400 standard piston/ring/pin sets for $36 each. http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/vintage_piston_rings_kits/vintage_piston_rings_kits/vintage_piston_rings.htm For $36, you get the piston, rings, wrist pin and end clips as a full set I am running a set from them in my 750 twin. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 22:24:30 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395320#395715 I know the tank on the A2 is HUGE,but I don't know about the LTD.Do you think the seat foam from the LTD would mate up to the tank OK,and is it the same length as the A2?Unless it's a 2-piece seat.I can get foam and a cover for the 1000 from Z1 Ent all day for $130 off E-bay.What do ya think? Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:50:22 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=375473&limit=20&limitstart=20#395713 [Click on image to enlarge view.] http://kzrider.com/images/fbfiles/images/lost_voltage_to_headlight-bff4b27554bee26ea1c8e6b8d53aaf78.jpg Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:35:51 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395554#395700 exhaust leaks allegedly dont affect carb tuning or so i was told, if its leaking before muffler then its at the exhaust gasket and can screw up the valve Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:49:58 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=395383#395698 If it were me, I'd check the input voltage to the ignition coil. Remove the gas tank, and with the key to the "On" position have the run/stop switch to "Run", get a multimeter set on VDC(Volts D.C.)range of 20. Put the RED probe of the meter where the RED wire goes and the BLACK meter probe on either a good frame ground or the battery Negative(-) post. It should indicate within a few volts of the battery, if not, it's time to start cleaning the connectors and switch contacts. The right handlebar has the mentioned run/stop switch, also the start switch is mounted there too. The headlight housing has a majority of the main harness connectors inside that will need cleaning. For many years, I've been usung a good brand of electrical contact cleaner/preservative called "De-oxit" on my bike and other electrical contact surfaces. www.deoxit.com is their website. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:33:07 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=395614#395697 Shop manuals can be bought at : 1.www.repairmanual.com 2.www.manualsnmore.com 3.E-Bay Also this website has a file base on some Kawasaki's as well as www.wgcarbs.com website. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:22:08 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395643#395688 Yes, but same pin, deck height, valve pockets? Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:42:08 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=393930&limit=20&limitstart=40#395686 thanks everyone! just wait for my gas tank now!.. the sprayer is on his holidays now. my dad said this new boyer ignition is guaranteed 5 years! part number 301 for the kz750 1981. regards angel Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:38:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395646#395685 Dunstall replica mufflers are available at a lot of places, such as JCWhitney. Some have the cone shaped tip, others are a megaphone style. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:49 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=11&id=389500&limit=20&limitstart=40#395660 The race was probably installed hot and shrunk in place. I'd do it like Leon said, with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 16:55:29 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=6&id=380630#395650 There is a place here in the Chicago area that will Ceramic coat your header for $125 inside and out with either silver or black. This will give you real thermal barrier protection. http://www.lo-ko.com/services.html I have attempted the spray can thing with some of the best and most expensive paints available and they just do not last. After spending $70 to have the thing sand blasted and than another $25 for the VHT spray cans of primer and paint, for the extra $25 it is more than worth it. With the Ceramic you can drop external header temperatures by as much as 400*f Thu, 02 Sep 2010 16:12:14 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395158&limit=20&limitstart=20#395640 jeffasaki wrote: SLAM LOL I got off the chemicals in high school Damn,this is good.I havent had so much fun since the hogs ate my little brother.Hee-damn-haw.bj Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:52:48 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395281#395639 Yes, if compression is particularily low on a cylinder(s), then puor in a couple teaspoons oil and try again. If compression rises faster and achieves similar compression as good cylinders, then it is ring/bore/piston issues. If the oil makes no difference at all or very little (under 5 psi difference), then the problem is most likely an improperly seating valve. Good Luck. B) Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:48:18 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=395628#395633 Good luck with getting that bike, looks pretty good from your photo. There are a lot of people here with the same bike, so lots of info for you. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:26:05 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395068#395624 Yes Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:02:48 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=395598#395600 Okay, I'm clueless on how to get more than 1 pic up here, they all turn out to be the same one. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 11:47:50 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395261#395594 kzbobber1 wrote: it does leak out of the overflow nipple on the bottom of the bowl. When I block it off with a tube it then wants to come out through the carb itself. a small puddle forms in the carb. I think it is just adjusted too high. I will try and adjust and see what happens. thanks Or that carb has a worn and or dirty fuel inlet needle/seat assembly. In most cases when you have a high idle that can't be adjuster down, that an air leak or a very lean pilot/air screw circut. Like others commented, I am also very surprised that engine even starts and runs with stock jetting and no airbox. Thu, 02 Sep 2010 11:11:12 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=10&id=395529#395588 Welcome...stop by any time...there is always someone on-line. :) Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:47:42 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=395391#395537 Lack of maintenence... ;) + all of the above and the manual. B) Thu, 02 Sep 2010 07:13:07 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395500#395530 That looks like it has electronic advance on it. How would points fit in? What mechanical advancer would work? The stator appears to have a special winding for the ignition. But is it to provide the primary power for the coils, or is it simple a voltage generator so the igniter knows the crank speed (to control the electronic advance)? Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:33:04 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395362#395499 TeK9iNe wrote: There is deffinately something to be said for new replacement parts. I've only had about 50% success with Fleabay and other used crap. It eith works just ok cause someone beat it good, then dies on you a year later, or just doesnt work right when you get it. A new stator and new R/R unit with all new wiring is PRICELESS, works flawlessly, and pays for itself in the end. Just save the dough, and buy new. It all works sooo much better than the old crap! + no headaches! :-D B) If you can spring for it that is great! in fact if you are buying new get a stator off the G1 it is at least 50% larger from the factory, this was on the injected bike and they wanted to make sure the DFI was fed steady power. Wed, 01 Sep 2010 22:33:58 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395451#395495 The same thing happened to me, took me 3 trys to get it right, loctite and an impact did the trick. :) Wed, 01 Sep 2010 21:54:28 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=395203&limit=20&limitstart=20#395482 WABBMW wrote: I have BS32 carbs on my 650, instead of BS34s for the 1000 cc engines, but they are still CV carbs and very similar. The motorcycle ran well with the standard air box, but I wondered whether it would perform better with reduced intake restriction. So I removed the air filter and top nozzle from the airbox. (The top opening of the air box without the nozzle is about 4", as compared to about 1 1/2" for the ID of the nozzle.) The bike ran very poorly. Probably only put out 1/4 of the previous power. Later, I increased the Main jets by 2 sizes and tried the same experiment again. It ran slightly better than before - perhaps 1/3 of the horsepower with the air box. My point is - that with CV carbs - it may take considerable re-jetting; jet needles and changes before the motorcycle will put out more power. It obviously can be done, but not without other significant changes. My $0.01 worth. Frome what i've read, those who have experienced any type of hp gains with pods had to richen the mains by 8-10 jet sizes ! Wed, 01 Sep 2010 20:55:37 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=395241#395470 Could be this as well, loose stator bolt. Here is a current thread to read. http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395451 http://kzrider.com/images/fbfiles/files/Starter_parts.doc Wed, 01 Sep 2010 19:06:38 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395377#395444 god bless you moneypit,just what i needed,all the best oldster Wed, 01 Sep 2010 17:03:16 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=3&id=394751#395438 Aren't these on fleabay right now? Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:40:49 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=5&id=394995#395418 So, your problem is locating a mounting gasket or o-ring for the petcock or fuel level switch? The petcock mounting gasket is actually an o-ring. I believe the K&L rebuild kit comes w one. It did several years ago, anyway. Some places sell metric nitrile o-ring kits. The kit I got from HarborFreight has a size that appears to be nearly identical to the one in the K&L kit. It's 31.7mm OD & 3.5mm thick. You might be able to find a kit elsewhere & in the viton material. Also, the auto parts store might sell o-rings out of a similar kit. Wed, 01 Sep 2010 14:54:38 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=395283#395370 For a stock motor and general cruising around town stock old springs are fine. For any performance work and aggressive riding new springs are a must. Wed, 01 Sep 2010 11:56:39 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=17&id=355803&limit=20&limitstart=40#395360 anyone interested in Haugens tonight for car night? I will be at Shannonville Thurs eve if interested. Wed, 01 Sep 2010 10:34:27 -0400 http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=2&id=394369&limit=20&limitstart=40#395348 I didn't see where what the exhaust system was. But if the port area is slightly smaller than the header tube, and with the sudden larger diameter causing a loss of velocity with the lower pressure area having the heavies left from rich/ oily combustion sticking there. Plus the cool down as the gases pass over the sudden change in thermal properties of going from the head to a tube. Wed, 01 Sep 2010 09:53:40 -0400