Hi all, I would really like to turbo my kz1000, it would be more for looks and sound rather than tyre shredding performance! I would be building it myself over the winter and would like any information or knowledge anyone has? The engine is in great condition having fitted new standard pistons in it that are 1mm over. I'm only thinking of low boost (5 or 6 psi) would the engine be ok?  Are they strong enough to cope? Look forward to your replies....

As an aside, I am following another Z650 that my friend is building. It's where my GPz 750R1 engine came from, a bike which hadn't run for 25 years. The reason that engine was 'spare' was because this Z650 is undergoing an major make over. Its being rebuilt as a 90's era street fighter, powered by a GPz750 Turbo engine, taken out to 810cc and fitted with a bigger turbo, long with suspension and brakes from the 90's. The front end is from a ZXR750 in thick billet yolks, while the swing arm is from a ZRX1200. The latter not quite 90's, but close enough..





   

Saablord wrote:

Watch out for wrecked Concours motors as they quickly destroy themselves from oil starvation (ie when they're running on their side after a crash). Checkout this forum forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/
 

For any DFI build I suggest running a tip over switch/sensor. Its function is to cut-off power to the injection and ignition systems in case the machine is tilted too far from the vertical, too far meaning roughly over 65º inclination from the horizontal or indeed fall flat on its side completely.

I have one wired into my fuel injection harness taken off a ZX6, its a simple switch that has "V" shaped internals and a sliding contact which will brake the circuit if tilted too far.

Haha yes, I have come to the same conclusion (air cooled motors not being worth it), but I'll still finish out my build.

Watch out for wrecked Concours motors as they quickly destroy themselves from oil starvation (ie when they're running on their side after a crash). Checkout this forum forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/

That is a really cool build saablord! I've been doing some research into my options and I have come to the hesitant conclusion that the build may not be worth it for my purpose. I found out about the existence of the Kawasaki 1000 concours. The engine fits all the criteria I'm looking for while being water cooled. From what I have read the concours' engine is essentially the motor from the ninja of its day tuned for torque and has a shaft drive output. Having seen on the cog forum that these bikes often survive hundreds of thousands of miles, I think I know what I'll be searching for on Facebook Marketplace in the foreseeable future. In case anyone is interested I'll make sure to keep this post updated on what road I decide to go down.

How do I reach out to ZED1015 concerning j model head configuration you speak of?

This is a J head which simply needs the top idler modification ( the red bit ) for it to fit any earlier Z9/1000 engine.
The stock 40cc combustion chamber volume is 4cc larger than the earlier (36cc) heads so will need steps taken to correct this such as skimming it approx 1.3mm or using higher comp pistons .
This head is now on my recently completed Racecrafters build which can be seen elsewhere on the forum.
It is 1075cc and i used 12-1 comp rated wiseco's to get the actual comp to around 10.5 to 1 and the head is ported with 90% throats and 32mm / 37.8 mm stainless valves.
Done correctly the J head is a worthwhile mod on any capacity Z9/1000 engine and i suspect the advice regarding the use of the J head on larger engines was because the early KZ head cannot flow enough for a normally aspirated big bore engine above around 1200 cc no matter how much it is ported and becomes the main cause of restriction for making further power.

The  pics in the second post is my current turbo build which will also use a J head.
This is also 1075cc and i'm using 10.25 -1 wisecos and a barrel spacer of yet undetermined thickness to get the comp down to around 8-1.
This will use 33mm/37mm valves with 90% throats and the porting focused on the exhaust side .





 

  
 

Dunemaster post=910298 userid=65727Cooling:

• I know Suzuki was able to make a high performance motor with the '86 GSX-R 1100 that was oil cooled. They had a high performance oiling system but it makes me reason that if I get enough volumetric flow of oil in combination with a large enough oil cooler I should be fine with cooling. Its controversial but I know some opt for a thinner weight oil in racing machines and go ham on cooling to run an engine cooler but within the same oil viscosity range. I am also considering adding a meth/water injection system to sweat the cylinders from the inside which is pretty common with turbo builds. 

Transmission:

• When I was doing research on turbo conversions (if I remember correctly) all people tend to recommend is to replace all the bearings so I kind of assumed that should be all I should have to do. I am part of an FSAE club on my campus in which we design, build, and compete in competition with a purpose built race car. We use a 2005 r6 motor that we've done plenty of modification to that has a higher torque output than the stock bike yet we don't touch the transmission (apart from removing first gear). I understand the problem with clutch slip  but what else should I have to do to ensure good transmission health? Does anyone have horror stories about high power KZ750's tranny's blowing?

Water/alk injection into the plenum to cool the intake charge is a good idea especially if you have limited air flow.
Stock Kawi transmissions are basically bullet proof. Only Z1 drag bikes use aftermarket gears, normally replacing 2nd gears on bikes over 160-180HP (big slick tire bikes) they do replace other gears on engines making over 300HP.
I was told by a Kawi Top Fuel guy that stock case castings are good to about 500HP.
The 650/750 series bikes were designed much better, the same head engineer worked on the Z1, so the 650/750's had upgraded systems.
I run a stock transmission on my 650 slick tire drag bike (831cc alcohol injected) never had a trans gear issue.

This member (RIP) did a carb/turbo conversion :

www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/423436...-turbo-kz650?start=0

Lots of good info there plus he was trying to get a DIY scavenge oil pump working, not sure if it working or not because he got sick

I am not a turbo expert by any means but have collected some information over the years. I was going to put a Eaton supercharger on one of my builds (sort of similar) so I have investigated putting power adders on Z1 and 650/750 engines in the past.

As for my reason to why I am using the KZ750 shaft I have a conventional drivetrain, no chains that is. The only modern motorcycle that I know of that is a shaft drive is the goldwing, and I'd like to keep to an inline engine configuration. In short I've kinda fallen in love with the KZ platform and would like to see how far I can push it. I will attempt to explain my thought process for the issues below:

Cooling:

• I know Suzuki was able to make a high performance motor with the '86 GSX-R 1100 that was oil cooled. They had a high performance oiling system but it makes me reason that if I get enough volumetric flow of oil in combination with a large enough oil cooler I should be fine with cooling. Its controversial but I know some opt for a thinner weight oil in racing machines and go ham on cooling to run an engine cooler but within the same oil viscosity range. I am also considering adding a meth/water injection system to sweat the cylinders from the inside which is pretty common with turbo builds. 

Transmission:

• When I was doing research on turbo conversions (if I remember correctly) all people tend to recommend is to replace all the bearings so I kind of assumed that should be all I should have to do. I am part of an FSAE club on my campus in which we design, build, and compete in competition with a purpose built race car. We use a 2005 r6 motor that we've done plenty of modification to that has a higher torque output than the stock bike yet we don't touch the transmission (apart from removing first gear). I understand the problem with clutch slip  but what else should I have to do to ensure good transmission health? Does anyone have horror stories about high power KZ750's tranny's blowing?

Thanks for the input so far guys and keep it coming! I'll make sure to post on the 750turbo forum to see what they have for me as well.