TOPIC:

I am sure that I posted this on here before, but it has been quite a while...Old signwriter's trick...to remove sign paint (or any other enamel) from a "factory" paint job...use "Easy-Off" oven cleaner! The lye in it softens enamel to the point that it can be basically wiped off, without harming the underlying factory finish...A little buffing to get rid of the "ghost" and voila! I can NOT attest to the OP's question....try a little bit on the underside of the tail first! Wear gloves, long sleeves, & eye protection!

[quote="Nessism"
I'd use a DA with 100 grit, just watch the corners. I did just that on my 750 restore.

As:laugh:[/quote]

100 grit DA !!!

Noooo plastics are specialist, cracks and deep scratches return. No less tthan 400 grtit, working upwards wet sanding. Blocks are good for cars..but for these pretty bikes you can't find a single flat surface anywhere on the bike.

A tip from my paint factor: plastics have a release agent to allow moulding, if you must go down to the base plastic let it air for several days.

Generally I will flat and go down to basecoat, no further. Whilst a risk of reaction, in my experience only quite rarely - as seen on my bubbling side panels 1 year later on my gpz550. that was ( badly) previously painted - I knew I was taking a risk on that.

Metals always down to the bone, plastics need a different approach imo. Also cracks with filler have a habit of returning...

Alright guys....thx for the replies. This is what I'm working with.....don't know much about paint but I do know that I can save a lot of money if I can prepare it .

I needed to make a few mistakes before realising what is correct prep.

A good tip: when flatting, hold the wet panel up to the light for a few seconds whilst it is wet. That glassy wet look is what the 2k clear coat will be like, so if it is perfect smooth at wet sand stage that is a good indicator for a few seconds whilst wet. Any bumps or dimples need to be dealt with perfectly by the end of the primer stage.

Spdygon,

First just try chipping it away with a utility knife blade to see if it chips away easily. It sure looks like it will pop right off since the super thick repaint looks like the primer is already separated from the factory paint in the photos.