Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me

TOPIC:

Front Brake Caliper ? 01 Jul 2015 18:47 #679030

  • havakaw
  • havakaw's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 179
  • Thank you received: 24
Sir: The bleeder screws have to be straight up to get all the air out of the system. I have found that if I remove the caliper and hold it with a pair of channel locks keeping pressure against the piston, this helps. It also helps to have an assistant working the lever as you hold the caliper and work the bleeder. You will never get all the air out if the bleeder is not totally vertical.
'80 KZ 750 LTD-H
'82 KZ 1100 A-2 Shafty (ex-bagger)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Front Brake Caliper ? 01 Jul 2015 18:49 #679031

  • havakaw
  • havakaw's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 179
  • Thank you received: 24

swest wrote: You can leave the fitting cracked open, Make them leak, hold the lever in and work down the line. On my right side the bleeder is up side down so I bleed it with the Banjo bolt.
Steve

Ok. So why are you running a left side caliper on the right side? That's why the line comes in at the top and your bleeder is at the bottom.
'80 KZ 750 LTD-H
'82 KZ 1100 A-2 Shafty (ex-bagger)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Front Brake Caliper ? 06 Jul 2015 16:34 #679727

  • weales
  • weales's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 247
  • Thank you received: 31
Agree with the thoughts about the correct positioning of the bleed nipples to get the air out! The master cylinder (new or old) needs to have enough capacity to provide fluid to a double disc setup - the original single disc reservoir won't cut it! Also, the thinner discs will require the pistons in the caliper to travel further before they contact the disc - this means more fluid - an insufficiently large reservoir will make it worse and you may not get enough travel with reduced amount of fluid available! One more thing - make sure the smaller of the 2 holes (relief valve ) in the master cylinder is not blocked.(my 2c worth)
Current Project
1968 Norton P11A Desert Sled
Other bike (and daily ride)
2004 Yamaha FZR 600
Previous Bikes
78 Z1-R (resto)
91 Zephyr 750
73 Mach IV (Resto)
78 Z1-R
78 Z1-R (stolen)
76 Z900
76 Z650
73 Mach IV
72 Mach III

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Front Brake Caliper ? 06 Jul 2015 17:21 #679739

  • SWest
  • SWest's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Sustaining Member
  • 10 22 2014
  • Posts: 22411
  • Thank you received: 2611

havakaw wrote:

swest wrote: You can leave the fitting cracked open, Make them leak, hold the lever in and work down the line. On my right side the bleeder is up side down so I bleed it with the Banjo bolt.
Steve

Ok. So why are you running a left side caliper on the right side? That's why the line comes in at the top and your bleeder is at the bottom.


Because that's all I had to work with in the 80's. no internet, no eBay only high priced high performance parts and the Dealer. :ohmy:
We had to make things work, not look it up on a computer and order it. Like here, we made our own parts and repaired the ones we had.
Gone are the days of rewinding starters and alternators. I can do it but I doubt most of the younger guys even have a clue.
Steve

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Front Brake Caliper ? 06 Jul 2015 18:05 #679768

  • 80B4
  • 80B4's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 447
  • Thank you received: 105
Put the pistons Bach so that the open end is against the brake pad. Are you using new full thickness brake pads?
Are you bleeding the system correctly?
1. With the bleeder closed, pull the lever all the way to the grip and hold it there.
2. Open the bleeder to vent any trapped air.
3 Close the bleeder with the lever still held to the grip.
4. Slowly let the lever return to its resting position.
5. Repeat 1 thru 4 untill the lever makes pressure.
1980B4 1000
1978 Z1R
1978 B3 750

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Powered by Kunena Forum