TOPIC:

Following.

Mine has horrible wobble when passing if the bike crosses over a grade change in the road, which is really sketchy when passing a semi truck.

When I had the shop do some starter work on it years ago, they told me the shocks needed to be rebuilt. My buddy who is a super mech, said that it is about the most frustrating rebuild work on the planet!

MFolks wrote: I copied this from a post from Jeff Saunders (owner of Z1 enterprises)

Motorcycle Wobble Causes

There's a LONG list of potential area that can cause this.

These are not in any particular order

Wheel bearings

Steering bearings - repack grease, check tightness

Swing arm bushings/sleeves/bearings - replace if worn, repack grease

Fork springs aging - check spring length

Unequal fork oil - if seals leak, then your damping can be ineffective

Rear shocks aging, damper leaks - if you have oil leaking from the seals, the damping is toast.

Worn Tires/Mismatched tires/tire pressures/wrong size tires
Wheel alignment - don't trust the chain adjusters - I visually align the wheels.

Bent rims/broken spokes - get the wheels off the ground and spin them - check for runout / damage

Front disc warped - check for runout

Steering & swing arm bearings are very common problems, but so are tire issues (pressure/mismatch) and wheel alignment.

Not having a front fender, as it helps stiffen up the forks. I’d suggest a fork brace.

Is that applicable to low speed (below 50) wobble as well as higher speed (above 50)

My kzp feels like I have a flat at around 40 through a curve

Yes

Hemmek wrote: Okay sounds like I have some real troubleshooting to do
I have replaced the rear wheel bearings,
Both tires are the same brand (Dunlop arrowmax) not that it guarantees anything.

I will take a look at the forward shocks and look over my pieced together Marcossis in the rear.
(I am trying to find parts for them since my fix will not last)
The piston is pitted bad so it is only a matter of time until it shears my new seals.

The bike has probably been laid down at one point, I recon from driving away on the side stand.
(side stand mounting bracket is tilted upwards so I have my shifter set way high since I am hitting the side stand while downshifting otherwise,)
And lower frame tube seems to have a banana shape as well.

I will take care of the frame when winter hits among other things (the plan is to give her a good overhaul then)

The wheels alignment is set whit a straight ladder, (what we could find at that time that was long enough.)

BTW since I will probably find a lot of broken parts here (if PO has worked on it)
What is considered good upgrades suspension vise?

For example if I find that PO have filled the forks with sand? (I would not get surprised to be honest)
I would rather update the forks than refurbishing the stock ones.
The same goes for everything else on the bike.

The tapered bearings are noted and will probably find its way to my bike
But I would like the numbers on those bearings, (For example a 6302)
Reason being that I have a contact that can get me just about any bearing for dirt cheap if I have the numbers.

Best regards H

All Ballz bearings are not expensive and are great quality. It is easy to find the bearings you need on there website.

Yeah I know but would be nice to get them through my contact, (very fast delivery)
And then I get Swedish bearings (SKF)
But I will take a look at all balls as well.
If I don't get any numbers I will probably order there anyway.

BTW does anyone have experience with a fork brace?
They are kind of expansive so are they worth it?
Big difference? what kind of difference?

Best regards H.

Never happened to me, I have had my bike up to and over 125 mph several times this year...... smooth as glass???

Tire pressure is critical. You cannot assume the same pressure for one brand will work the same with another brand of tire. I have experimented with different pressures on some of my bikes and noticed I needed more pressure with a few of the brands.

Changing handlebars can cause handling changes. When you jump from a pull-back handlebar like those on the LTD models to drag bars, much more weight is going on the front tire - so you may need to increase pressure slightly to compensate.

The early high speed woddles where relatated to the rear axle nut not being tightened enough. I believe it was over 50 ft lbs. and could not be done with a tool kit wrench unless you used your foot. Tires and tread pattern where an issue also.

If you have a fender you probably don't need it, if not you do.
Steve

Tripleted wrote: The early high speed woddles where relatated to the rear axle nut not being tightened enough. I believe it was over 50 ft lbs. and could not be done with a tool kit wrench unless you used your foot. Tires and tread pattern where an issue also.

It that the 750 concept that sparked the superbike arms race?

Also FWIW, i have found that putting my feet on the passenger pegs of both my 1000 and 650 makes the bike unstable and easy to wobble.