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I finally got the engine running smoothly on my GPz 550 and took it out for a ride last night. By the time I got home, my lights were dim and my brand new battery was almost dead! I checked the resistances on stator coil and got 0.9 ohms for each one, with infinite resistance to frame for each of the three yellow wires. My manual says the resistance should be closer to 0.5 ohms. Is my stator coil bad? The readings for the rectifier are all over the place, so I know that it needs to be replaced. What is the best option as far as price and performance is concerned? Another bit of information is this apparent short in the plug that connects stator to rectifier. Looks like it got way too hot one day. Am I going to need to replace the stator AND the rectifier, or just the rectifier? Do the magnets ever go bad on the rotor? That piece looks like its in good shape, and it really hangs onto the stator coil so there is at least a decent amount of magnetization.

Really excited to have this bad boy running.

Ben

For a high quality regulator / rectifier check out the site below. Ed

www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Products.html

2 recent threads I've been involved in..... the first I'm the OP

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/602982-i-...ew-voltage-regulator

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/603228-re...from-kz750-for-kz550

I've tried 2 Shindengen SH775s and have a used stator on the way within spec resistance readings. I also have a Shindengen FH020 on the way.

You also need to know how much AC voltage you are getting from each of your stator wires @ 4-6k rpm.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationAssuming your bike uses a common three phase permanent magnet generator, the best R/R available is the Shindengen SH775 SERIES R/R. These units help protect your stator by eliminating shunted current going back to your stator and cooking it. Polaris installed these units OEM on several bikes and Triumph offers them as well.

SH775, Polaris part number 4012941. Cost about $72. www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/...;ranger-6x6-800;2013
The pigtail harness is Triumph T2500676 Cost about $10

I've posted this several times already so sorry to the regulars for repeating myself yet again.

If you need a stator there are tons of options. I like Ricks but they are pricey. There are cheaper sources if you check out ebay.

Edit: found a Ricks stator for a good price on ebay. These units normally sell for about $150+..

Thanks! I just tore my entire wiring harness apart and am redoing it. I noticed that there is a brown wire from rectifier that seems to give power to a few different things. is it okay to eliminate this and wire everything to the battery? and just leave that brown wire unconnected, or would I need a different rectifier... or is that just a terrible idea?

Also, the fact that the resistance readings on the stator are 0.9 ohm means that the stator is bad? I would go out and start it up to check the voltage at different rpms but the bike is torn apart right now. Visibly, the stator and flywheel magnets look like they are in great shape.

The brown wire is a sensor wire. Sometimes called the exciter wire. It tells the R/R what the demands are for current. Most newer R/Rs don't use them. If the replacement has one use it. Otherwise don't worry about it.

I ran the new wire harness using the original connector from the stator into the R/R. Going out I ran the ground straight to the battery, You could frame ground it if you wanted. The hot wire I ran through a 20A breaker as a precaution then to the solenoid, The solenoid post is just an easy place to hook all the positive leads, You could run hot directly to the battery if you wish.

Stator-wise mine is at 1.5 ohms, Spec is 0.48-0.72 ohms on my bike but is still producing AC voltage within spec. I don't know what that means but the one on the way is measuring 0.60 at all leads according to the seller.

The brown wire needs to go to a switched power point. I think you can put it on battery + post as an alternate.

.9 ohms is above spec as mentioned. Not a good sign.

You can check no-load AC voltage from the stator after disconnecting the wires to the R/R. This test may give a false indication if the voltage is high, but if the voltage is low you got a bum stator for sure. 75+ VAC at 5000 rpm is about right.