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I'm coming up empty on the searches. Looked for a ZN ignition switch diagram and found nothing. Searched for GPZ 1100 / ZX1100 wiring diagram and again nothing. Seems to be no shortage of 650 and 750 diagrams though. My old eyes are going buggy from squinting at wiring diagrams.

Anyhow...tomorrow, I'll try working with the ohmeter and making a chart. We'll see how that goes but, at least, I can't wreck anything by trying. I'm now heading over to repairmanual.com to order a service manual.

Thanks. I'll report back about how the ohmeter thing goes tomorrow.

I'm sorry to report that my Ignition Switch test results are as impressive as my search results.

Disconnected the (+) battery terminal. Opened the headlight. Disconnected the Switch. Ohm meter read "1" then "0" when touching the probes together. Ignition Switch in the "off" position. Probed the leads throughout the switch. Every combination read "1" on the meter. Moved the Ignition Switch to "on." Every combination read "1" on the ohm meter. Moved the Ignition Switch to the "Park" position. Again, every combination read "1" on the meter.

"On" hasn't been productive recently. The bike ran (poorly) after fixing the carbs. It needs a tune-up. After that, the electrics went south and did nonsensical stuff when trying to start it.

So, I ordered the Service Manual online. If the Manual has a diagram of the Ignition Switch, hopefully that help get the bike running again. Will let you know when the Manual arrives. Thanks again!

Battery, fuses, starter motor, starter solenoid work.

That's not good. Maybe the switch is dirty. Maybe try cycling the switch through the different positions. At some point you have to get some continuity, if it ran at all before.

It ran last week. Then, it suddenly stopped putting power to the ignition. So I switched the relays around - main, start, lights - and all kinds of crazy began. With either of 2 relays in the main slot, nothing happens. No ignition, no dash lights. Put the other relay in the main slot and power goes to the ignition - with the key in the off position. The relay has to be removed to shut it down. They're all the same relay - same symbols, volts, amps, etc.

The wires are brittle. With enough bending, they will snap. So my plan was to have a bare bones diagram and replace all the wires.

@ loudvhx - would it help matters (or even be possible) to replace the current oem ignition switch with a different switch? one where the diagram / internal workings are known? or, does that add more stuff to deal with? i'm just thinking that while i have to replace all the wires, why not replace the ignition switch too. thank you.

Pulled the electrics out of the bike this morning and found this. There's probably more but it's HOT (90s) so I'm waiting for it to cool off. The Service Manual shipped today too so will have the switch diagram this coming week,

Good find! Might be more then one. Take the time to check, clean and the grease them up while they are easy to get at.

BadMonk wrote: @ loudvhx - would it help matters (or even be possible) to replace the current oem ignition switch with a different switch? one where the diagram / internal workings are known? or, does that add more stuff to deal with? i'm just thinking that while i have to replace all the wires, why not replace the ignition switch too. thank you.

Yes, it's possible, and since your switch is dead, according to your test results, you will need one anyway.

Cleaning the OEM switch made no difference. I think a simple on/off switch is what I need to use for this bike. Can you enlighten me please as to what the Bare Bones diagram should look like with such a simple switch? Thank you very much!

On the diagram, notice the 20a fuse has a white wire to the switch. Notice the switch then goes to a brown wire that goes to many things. A simple switch would connect/disconnect that white wire to the brown wire.

Don't use a cheap switch. Don't use a plastic vinyl switch. Use a metal/epoxy toggle switch rated for 20 to 30 amps.

I picked up a universal type die-cast housing switch from Pollack, model 31-602. It’s two-position, two-terminal. Pollack has been around for a long time. Hopefully it works with the bike.



Loudvhx – Sorry for being thick skulled. I’m working on it. Am I interpreting your instruction correctly when I say this? The fused white wire goes to one terminal on the switch and the other terminal is wired directly to the brown wire. So, it’s power in and power out on that simple switch?

I dismantled the OEM harness today to see what it takes to turn it into a Bare Bones harness. Now I thought the heavy black lines on the OEM wiring diagram meant the wires are bundled together in that configuration. They are/were not. So I ‘worked’ on it for my own edification. Who knows maybe I’m picking up a little bit here and there…maybe not.

There were a few broken or semi-broken wires. All the wires are dried out and brittle. Some work had been done on the alternator – rectifier wires. Most of the pins were loose.

I'm out of town so might be late in replies.

Yes, power in, power out.
I think you have it correct, but if you can modify the diagram, (posted in mattylight), that would be a more sure way of knowing.

Yes, every old harness I've dissected had quite a few bad spots, either broken entirely and just touching, or hanging by a thread. You can see the bad spots as they appear as a bump in the wire insulation. On bad harnesses, it will be easier to rewire from scratch than to troubleshoot all of the intermittent breaks.