TOPIC:

I am working on a 1978 KZ650 and I am pretty sure I could use some new,(different), coils for it.
I am wondering what other models would work.
From what I can see on Partzilla, it is only the 1978 to 1980 that are coming up.
Is this true, or do I have other options?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What makes you suspect you need new coils? Have you run any diagnostics to see if the existing coils are bad? My 1977 KZ650-C1 has the original coils and they work perfectly, so you shouldn't assume yours are bad based on age alone. If your engine is not running smoothly I recommend you do some diagnostic work before replacing any parts. Have you performed a full tune-up? If not; do so before anything else so you are working from a known baseline. Replacing parts based on guess-work can not only be expensive for no gain, but you may also end up with parts that are not fully compatible.

If you have not already done so I suggest you use your Kawasaki Service Manual and perform ALL the maintenance task in it. Normal maintenance tasks like replacing points and condensers must be performed of the engine will run very poorly (if at all). If you do not already have a Kawasaki Service Manual you really need to get one. Working on these bikes without one is simply begging for trouble. They usually are available on eBay; be sure to get one for your bike's EXACT year & model because there are many important differences between the various KZ650 models. Ed

My 168,000 mile 1978 KZ650 still has original coils and they work fine last time I rode it a few years back.

Here is a little back ground.
I just picked this bike up and the previous owner installed the electronic ignition plate,(points eliminator).
The bike didn't run right, so a friend told him he needed different coils.
He proceeded to put coils off from something else that he was given.
Not sure what they came off.
The stock coils were left in a bucket outside and were laying in about 6 inches of water for an extended period of time.
So that is where it stands.
The coils that are on there do produce spark, but they are not correct for the bike.
I want to replace them with stock.
That is why I asked what ones were interchangeable.

OK.

The 1978 KZ650 would have originally come with points. Given that a previous owner has monkeyed with the ignition system no one on this or any other forum will be able to accurately tell you what coils you need unless you identify exactly which electronic ignition system your bike has. There are numerous aftermarket and Kawasaki electronic ignition systems, and each has its own requirements for the type of coils that are compatible; they do not all use the same coil type. Unless you switch back to a stock points ignition system replacing your existing coils with stock ones probably will not be a good idea because it is doubtful that the electronic ignition system on your bike is compatible with the stock coils.

If you can identify exactly what ignition system the bike has someone here may have experience with it so they might know which coils are appropriate. Ed

I have a 1974 CB750 with the electronic ignition and I have never had a problem with my stock coils.
I would just like to get it back to the stock coils and go from there.
I don't want to spend $130 for coils if I don't have to.
There are lots of inexpensive coils for all the early KZ650's and would like to know what works and what doesn't.
So if I could please just get an answer to my question, I would greatly appreciate it.
I have the stock points plate and if the bike still doesn't run right with different coils, I can reinstall them and see what happens.
I have a feeling it is actually a carb issue, but until I can eliminate that it isn't the ignition then I will just be chasing my tail.

Thanks

The electronic ignition at hand -- that replaced the stock points ignition -- could be a Dyna-S (a common choice) or perhaps from a later model's factory igniter style electronic ignition, or it might be some other brand of aftermarket electronic ignition.

It's important to use ignition coils that match the particular electronic ignition at hand.

A picture of the ignition at hand would be helpful.

Here's a comparison between a stock igniter ignition style ignition and an aftermarket Dyna-S ignition.



The igniter style also uses a separate Igniter unit located underneath a side cover, which probably looks something like this:



I would imagine that more points replacements are done with Dyna-S ignitions than are done with later model factory igniter style ignitions.

And here's some help with posting a picture.




Good Fortune!

Scrapvalue wrote: .......
So if I could please just get an answer to my question, I would greatly appreciate it.
I have the stock points plate and if the bike still doesn't run right with different coils, I can reinstall them and see what happens....
Thanks

Here's the answer:
Some coils are 3 ohm, some are 4 ohm, some are 5 ohm, etc. The coils need to match the requirements of the ignition system or you will have problems.
If you install the stock points and condensers the stock coils will work.
If you leave the electronic ignition on the bike you will need to identify which unit it is so the correct coils for it can be identified.
Ed

Z1Enterprises use to carry Emgo universal coils, but I cannot find them on their site.
Give them a call and ask if they still carry them.
I think they were less than $40 each.

www.z1enterprises.com/Home.aspx

UPDATE

When I bought this bike a couple weeks ago, the owner told me he was having trouble with the points.
Said it would run good for about a 1000 feet and then die.
He would then file the points and it would run again, for 1000 feet.
This is when he installed the electronic ignition.
Bike still wouldn't run right and not for long when it did.
He then said he had a friend who raced KZ's and said the coils were his problem.
He put some coils on it from something else, don't know what it was.
They didn't fit the mounting holes properly and the plug wires were way to long.
I told him it sounded like a fuel issue and the ignition and carb problems can give the same symptoms sometimes.
He said, I took the carbs off and cleaned them and they were fine.
Hooked up some jumpers, sprayed some gas in the air cleaner and it would fire up and stall back out.
I told him again, it sounds like a carb issue.
He said he was sick of working on it and wanted it gone.
For $350 I took a chance.
I hadn't even taken the tank off when I first posted that I needed a set of coils.
A few days ago, I finally got a chance to work on it.
When I took the tank off you could see right away that the gas line from the tank to the carbs was to long and kinked.
I put a test tank on it and it fired right up and ran, but was missing some.
I took the wires of the old coils and installed them on the coils that were on the bike so they all fit right.
Put a fresh set of plugs in and would start right up and idle fine. It even seemed to rev fine when in neutral.
But under load it was missing.
Did the heat test on the pipes and found the far right cylinder was cooler then the rest. Checked the spark and that was fine.
Pulled the carbs and that one carb had a little piece of something partially blocking the main jet.
Cleaned it out, put it back together and it runs great.
I wish all my bike projects turned out this well!

Reading your post and I just had a similar issue regarding revs great in neutral but not under load. You have a timing problem and I bet that electronic ignition is faulty or not installed in the correct position. Find out what it is and follow the manufacturer's installation instructions. Also stay close to home, ride it around the block a bunch of times and let it get up to running temperature.

I had multiple problems come up at the same time. When I checked the timing it was way off, after I corrected it the bogging in gear/load went away. Furthermore I'm running points and the dwell angle was off and one side is showing signs of wear that needs replacement. I'm looking at an electronic ignition but understand they don't work/last forever.

Good luck.

Thanks for the input, but if you read the next to the last line of my post you will see it runs great now.
It was a fuel issue. And yes, I rode it close to home for a while. I also road up hill so I could coast back if I needed to.