TOPIC:

Corrosion is resistance, causing high current flow, possibly damaging the fuse clips, and associated wiring. having the battery nearby, can have the charging'discharging gas, corrode any brass ,copper, or other metals.

Hey guys, I am having a similar problem with my bike. I took it out for a ride and everything seemed fine until I parked it and cut the engine. I tried to start it immediately afterwards and it sounded like it had a low battery and couldn't start (instrument lights dimmed as I pressed the starter button, engine wouldn't turn over). I ended up turning everything off and waiting a few minutes before I got it working again, so I thought it was a battery problem. Instead, when I tried starting it up a few hours later the bike turned on like it didn't have a problem, so it wasn't that the battery was dead.

I've been able to replicate the problem where I'm riding and if I stall it's difficult to use the electrical start up immediately and the engine just wheezes. I've been able to wait a couple hours and start it up with no problem.

Does this sound like a fuse or a ground problem?

For me it sounds like your bike is not charging properly.
Take your voltmeter and first check how much V your battery is giving. Then turn on the bike and check your battery while it is running.
As far as i remember the battery should show about 12.5V when it is off and 13-14V when it is on..

This with that the battery seems to get power again.
I dont know how it works. But I have seen several times that if you leave a almost dead battery for some time, then when you check it again it has some extra energy left.

I tried to start it immediately afterwards and it sounded like it had a low battery and couldn't start (instrument lights dimmed as I pressed the starter button, engine wouldn't turn over).

So current is going to the starter, just not enough: either more than the battery can supply or the battery supply isn't fully getting to the starter.

I ended up turning everything off and waiting a few minutes before I got it working again, so I thought it was a battery problem. Instead, when I tried starting it up a few hours later the bike turned on like it didn't have a problem, so it wasn't that the battery was dead.

I think more likely a bad/loose battery connection, either positive and/or ground. They can do illogical things like this. If not that then maybe your starter motor brushes, but they are pretty durable on these.

If the bike has power to restart several hours later I don't think charging is your problem. A duff battery would be the opposite and wouldn't hold the charge.

TheDane wrote: For me it sounds like your bike is not charging properly.
Take your voltmeter and first check how much V your battery is giving. Then turn on the bike and check your battery while it is running.
As far as i remember the battery should show about 12.5V when it is off and 13-14V when it is on..

This with that the battery seems to get power again.
I dont know how it works. But I have seen several times that if you leave a almost dead battery for some time, then when you check it again it has some extra energy left.

I checked the voltmeter today and here is what it read: When the bike is off, battery is 12.5V When the bike is idling the battery is around 12.1 V.

Should it be 13-14 V during idle? I thought it wouldn't charge the battery until i got up to 3-4k RPMs.

That was how i remember that a mechanic i knew explained it to me a year ago.
But just to be sure, i just checked the kz400/500/550 manual. It just says that at 4000 rpm it should show 14.5V.

If it show that, then at least we will know that that is not the problem

The factory soldering jobs left a lot to be desired, and are starting to fail as the bike ages. If it were me, I'd disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal, open up the left and right handlebar "Switch Pods", and look for failed or failing soldered joints. If you find some, I've got a repair procedure to follow if you need it Just ask.

MFolks, can you post this repair procedure? Thanks!

12.5 borderline acceptable, 12.1 volts running definitely a problem.

But not your main problem, I suspect that of starter motor or +ve batt/solenoid/starter wiring or engine battery to ground -ve wiring.