TOPIC:

The damn things are in there and no screw driver will take them out after a while. A hand impact driver is a must for every tool box and the knowledge on how to use it. Then replace with Allens. In any event the bit must fit well.
Steve

An impact driver is a great tool to have. Makes a hell of a difference.If you havent got one,Ive found heat can work well for getting buggered fixings out. Give them a going over with a small blowtorch then a quick smack with the tapometer to break the seal and they should come out.If the head is completly shagged you can cut a new slot with a dremel (also a very handy tool to have) or a hacksaw blade and have at it with a flat blade screwdriver.
When fitting new screws (allen heads are good) put a bit of copper grease on them for the next time you need to pull them out.
Bien suerte

You hit it. With expansion and contraction, the steel screws tend to get tighter with age. There is also some deterioration occurring with moisture and the dissimilar metals causing them to almost weld themselves together. If you see a white powder when you pull out a fastener, it's corrosion, in fact aluminum dust. Stainless steel doesn't seem to do this as readily. When this happens, help is needed. The impact is spring loaded and when turned in the right direction with a hit, it will push down and turn at the same time thus loosening the fastener.
Warning; once loose, don't hit it again or thread damage will occur. When tightening, make it snug, twist it, then hit it once or twice. Any more and you can shear off the head or strip out the threads.
Steve

"There is also some deterioration occurring with moisture and the dissimilar metals causing them to almost weld themselves together. If you see a white powder when you pull out a fastener, it's corrosion, in fact aluminum dust. "

Very true! That corrosion that occurs between dissimilar metals (and sometimes between similar metals) forms a bond and makes the screws difficult to remove. I found that Kroil breaks down that bond between the steel screws and aluminum, and that allows the screws to come out without an impact driver or much fuss at all as long as a JIS bit is used.

The carb holders on my KZ650 had never been removed since the bike was new when I needed to replace them. They had been in place for more than 28 years. The JIS screws that fasten them to the cylinder head were dead tight because of that corrosion. Thanks to this forum I had learned that some folks damaged the cylinder head or broke the screws when trying to remove the carb holders. A friend who is a mechanical engineer at a facility that renders chemical weapons harmless advised me to try Kroil before fighting with the screws. He has used it for years on different jobs he has held. I tried it, and I am really glad I did. The screws came out without a problem after soaking them with Kroil for 3 days. I have since used it on other fasteners which I believed to be hopelessly stuck due to corrosion and/or rust, and it worked great on them too.

I'm not suggesting that an impact driver can never work when removing stuck fasteners, but there is much less risk of causing any damage if Kroil is used to break the corrosive bond so the fasteners can be removed without resorting to impact. Ed

The last two screws that were a real bitch to get off were the mighty screws at the back of the speedo and tach that hold the cover on (one screw each)

I meticulously made a bit to fit them then carefully turned them..... and simply tore the inside of the screw out.

Then I did the vise-grip attack...... and the screws FINALLY turned. OOOPS..... the heads of the screws turned as they sheared right off the ends of the screw's shaft.

And I had tried Kroil on the screws, but no way to get it inside where the threads are.

Anyway, took the covers off, drilled what was left out and threaded them for some new 4-40 stainless screws.

All that just to replace the burned out instrument bulbs.

Don't you love it when a ten minute job turns into four hours of work?

Hey all,

Finally got the screws out! I ended up drilling them out and extracting them, with lots of PB Blaster. Worked wonderfully.

Thanks for all the suggestions, much appreciated.

I can now get $12 worth of parts instead of $60!

Although I did just see a Dyna III ignition on Craigslist..

How much was the Dyna 3? Complete? Might be better off with the S.
Steve

swest wrote: How much was the Dyna 3? Complete? Might be better off with the S.
Steve

The Dyna III is listed for $75 firm. Also, I have to figure out if it's compatible with my 4 ohm coils.

Look it up at Z1. There was also a thread here with a link.

Come to think of it, I was running the Dyna S withe my 5 OHM coils and I just switched to 3 OHM's. There seemed to be some confusion on if they would or not. No problems so far. They're supposed to be a direct replacement to the stock point set up on older bikes. Let me know what you find out.
Steve

krayneeum wrote:

swest wrote: How much was the Dyna 3? Complete? Might be better off with the S.
Steve

The Dyna III is listed for $75 firm. Also, I have to figure out if it's compatible with my 4 ohm coils.

I know the Dyna S would work on the KZ 650's, it was listed in my instructions. The 3's might be just for electronic ignitions.