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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 11 Nov 2014 11:55 #653375

  • Eneko
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New to the forum :)
I am trying to bring to life a present; KZ550A3 and everything seemed to work. When connecting the headlight back, it blew up the fuse and all lights went off except the turn and brake lights (work).
I replaced the fuse but I do not get any lights (instrument panel nor head and tail light) and, cylinders 3 and 4 are not firing. In parking mode, the tail light works.
Oil and stop light work as well. Only normal lights do not.
Any hints?
Excuse my English :blink:
KZ550 almost alive!

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 11 Nov 2014 12:08 #653376

  • MFolks
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Replace all fuses,especially if old,as they do not age well. most auto and boating supply stores can get the AGX fuse size, in probably 10,and 15 amp sizes(but check to make sure of the ratings, as it should be on the metal end caps).
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 11 Nov 2014 12:47 #653380

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Thank you for reacting!

I changed all 5 fuses (4: 10A and 1: 20A)
Plugged and unplugged all connections, except the pick up coils. i also cleaned the handlebar switches, without success.
By the way, how do you add the profile image?

Thxs!
KZ550 almost alive!

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 11 Nov 2014 15:49 #653402

  • MFolks
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You'll probably need to do this:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal response and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........


“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at www.kzrider.com


Re: Cleaning the many and various Motorcycle electrics.
I used the De-oxit D-5 spray on all the electrical connections of my 78 Kz1000 that had sat for twenty years .

When I parked the bike in 92 I was starting to have troubles with some of the electrical system, but after pulling everything apart and giving it a spray , reconnecting the connectors and working them back and forth a few times, then gave them another shot of spray to wash them off before the final reconnection.

Everything still works perfectly and has for over 7000 miles this year.

I am extremely happy with the results , a lot of the connectors were green when I started and after the cleaning they looked new ( shiny gold )

I found the Deoxit D-series, D-5 spray in a 4 oz can at a big electronics store called Frys in Illinois, don't get the small cans at Radio Shack , they are different and meant for computer type stuff.

store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 11 Nov 2014 15:51 #653404

  • MFolks
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Testing Kawasaki and other brands of Motorcycle Ignition Coils For Input Voltage:

When voltage testing Kawasaki and other brands of Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.

9. To check the spark output at the sparkplugs, use Ignition Spark Testers. Instead of grounding the sparkplug with the sparkplug wire attached, looking for a spark. This method puts the IC Igniter and ignition coils at risk of failure due to high currents, and possible internal shorting.

These bikes have a 5000 ohm, non-replaceable resistor in the sparkplug caps. They go bad from heat, vibration and age. New ones are available at most Japanese motorcycle stores, or through Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts, including New Old Stock & aftermarket parts. www.z1enterprises.com is their website.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 13 Nov 2014 00:44 #653552

  • Eneko
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Thank you for your broad explanation!

Yesterday, after 2 weeks cleaning all the cables, I removed/swapped the cables from the horn...and everything back to normal.
Amazing!

I am now busy with the oil lamp. It is always on. I added an oil cooler that got for free.
i cannot check the sensor since it is different from the original one.

I will try to check if oil flows through the cooler tubes.

Thank you!
KZ550 almost alive!

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 13 Nov 2014 10:29 #653588

  • PLUMMEN
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3 and 4 are on separate coils,are you sure youre getting fuel? ;)
Still recovering,some days are better than others.

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 13 Nov 2014 11:12 #653594

  • Eneko
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Probably not yet in number 3. It gets less warm.
A colleague that knows more than me is joining tomorrow.
The carbs may need proper adjustment.
Let´s see if can find out about the oil lamp issue.
Greetings!
KZ550 almost alive!

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 13 Nov 2014 18:07 #653638

  • LarryC
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The fetzer switch relay is probably corroded. Take the cover off, clean the contacts with WD40 and 600 grit paper. Set the parallel diode synchronization member to 3 degrees positive angle as is shows in the service manual on page 162. That should do it ... :P
Larry C.

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 13 Nov 2014 20:17 #653649

  • Tyrell Corp
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oil light on the 550's : sender unit in sump, early models oil pressure, later 82 on oil level i think.

It is a simple ignition live feed to bulb, earthed through the switch. So if you disconnect the sender wire and ground it to a metal part on the frame or motor the light should illuminate.

Probably you have a dead short to earth somewhere between the bulb holder and the sender unit, likely got a chaffed wire grounding somewhere.
1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 15 Nov 2014 13:36 #653764

  • Eneko
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Where is the fetzer switch relay?
Thank you!
KZ550 almost alive!

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KZ550 lights went off and 3 and 4 are not firing 16 Nov 2014 00:49 #653806

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Ignore larry. Check your carbs, float levels

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