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Replacement Start Button sources? 23 Jul 2014 10:44 #641079

  • popochopper
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Has anyone found a source for purchasing a "start" button for a kz1000 police (1987)? Was out for a ride yesterday, get back on the bike and its just not there. Used a plastic tire pressure gauge to push into the button hole and it fired up thank the lord!

After a few hours of searching, I cant find the button or a part number... only the entire switch assembly. The question is, can I use another button from a different bike that may have a part number or is there another Macgyver solution to this?

thanks guys!

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Replacement Start Button sources? 23 Jul 2014 11:36 #641086

  • jakedude
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I have a 1988-P7 police bike. My starter button didn't work when I bought the bike. I just bought a replacement at radio shack. You need a button switch that is just momentary. By that I mean the switch closes when pressed and opens when released. Like a doorbell button.

Take your bad button out of your right handle bar switch cluster, Look to see how much room you have inside the cluster for the new button switch. Take the switch to radio shack and find one about the correct size. I pick out a small red square button, but they had others and in black. I had to drill out the hole in the switch cluster to get mine to fit, but that only took a second. Yes they are rated for outdoor use.
Nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect.

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Last edit: by jakedude.

Replacement Start Button sources? 23 Jul 2014 11:42 #641090

  • martin_csr
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I do not know if this part will work on your bike, but see note at bottom of the description.

Z1Enterprises.com --- Horn/Starter Button Z1 KZ650/750/900/1000 H2 H1 --- 27010-1009

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Last edit: by martin_csr.

Replacement Start Button sources? 23 Jul 2014 12:13 #641093

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jakedude wrote: I have a 1988-P7 police bike. My starter button didn't work when I bought the bike. I just bought a replacement at radio shack. You need a button switch that is just momentary. By that I mean the switch closes when pressed and opens when released. Like a doorbell button.

Take your bad button out of your right handle bar switch cluster, Look to see how much room you have inside the cluster for the new button switch. Take the switch to radio shack and find one about the correct size. I pick out a small red square button, but they had others and in black. I had to drill out the hole in the switch cluster to get mine to fit, but that only took a second. Yes they are rated for outdoor use.


Here is a picture. I picked a red button because I thought it would make my bike ride faster. I wasn't disappointed.

Attachment photo11.jpg not found

Nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect.
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Replacement Start Button sources? 24 Jul 2014 13:15 #641244

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martin_csr wrote: I do not know if this part will work on your bike, but see note at bottom of the description.

Z1Enterprises.com --- Horn/Starter Button Z1 KZ650/750/900/1000 H2 H1 --- 27010-1009


Thanks for the link Martin! Looks like it may work although my model isn't listed in the note. Might try it if all else fails!

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Replacement Start Button sources? 24 Jul 2014 13:20 #641245

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jakedude wrote:

jakedude wrote: I have a 1988-P7 police bike. My starter button didn't work when I bought the bike. I just bought a replacement at radio shack. You need a button switch that is just momentary. By that I mean the switch closes when pressed and opens when released. Like a doorbell button.

Take your bad button out of your right handle bar switch cluster, Look to see how much room you have inside the cluster for the new button switch. Take the switch to radio shack and find one about the correct size. I pick out a small red square button, but they had others and in black. I had to drill out the hole in the switch cluster to get mine to fit, but that only took a second. Yes they are rated for outdoor use.


Here is a picture. I picked a red button because I thought it would make my bike ride faster. I wasn't disappointed.

Thats a great idea Jake! Although my button is round as is the housing for it, the shack should still have something of similar sizes. Was the switch hard to take apart and how is the button held in there?

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Replacement Start Button sources? 24 Jul 2014 16:40 #641272

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Yeah, my bad start button was round too. The square button I picked seemed to be the best the shack had at the time.

The right handlebar switch cluster was no big deal to take apart. Two screws on the underside and it separated in to two halves. The bottom half had the start switch. It's been a while but I recall one screw holding the switch in place. Knowing that the switch was bad I cut the wires close to the switch to give me as much wire as possible for the new switch. Then a quick trip to radio shack to look at switches. I think this is the one I bought for $3.49.

www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062545

Here is a page of others.

www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCa...ry+button+switch&sr=

If you go to the first link you will see that the switch has a nut. The diameter of the switch shaft was a little bigger than the hole in my switch cluster so I just drilled it out. The don't forget to put the nut over the wires before soldering. Insert the switch through the hole. Solder the wire into place. Thread the nut over the switch. There is not much room to turn the nut. I used my fingers and then the point of a scribe to get it as tight as possible. Then I put some silicon adhesive over the threads, nut, and some just to act a glue to hold it all together.

It was just luck that you could still read "start" but I'm often lucky that way.
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Last edit: by jakedude.

Replacement Start Button sources? 30 Jul 2014 11:52 #642013

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Awesome tip Jake!

I bought the same button and after a minute or two of using a round file in the switch hole, it fit right in...no drilling necessary! Not sure about how strong my solder are as i'm by no means an expert but they seemed to hold after a 10 mile ride.

I appreciate your help!

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Replacement Start Button sources? 30 Jul 2014 12:06 #642014

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Glad to be of help. As long as your solder was shiny you should be fine. When the button is pressed, current passing through the button switch energizes the coil in the starter solenoid closing the switch between the battery and the starter. Since you are just activating the solenoid there's not much current going through the button switch. I'm sure the repair will last.
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Replacement Start Button sources? 30 Jul 2014 14:16 #642035

  • MFolks
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Repairing crumbled switch and light bulb socket soldering.

Some of the older Kawasaki's, and possibly the other brands of motorcycles may be experiancing crumbled or failed switch and light bulb factory soldering jobs. Here's a repair procedure:

Repairing Motorcycle Soldered Connections

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone will also remove soldered flux residue, but it's flammable(easy to ignite).

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge or rag, keeping a thin layer of solder on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge or rag, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick of screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).

J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
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