TOPIC:

On my 78 KZ1000 A, the ignition switch is acting weird. If the motorcycle is running, the ignition switch will not shut off the engine. I can turn the key off, pull it out and walk away and the engine will still be running. If the engine is not running, the ignition switch turns the dash lights on and off. So basically it seems to function normally as long as it's not running but I have to use the kill switch to shut it down if it's running. Anybody ever have this happen? Thanks

Time for a new ignition switch! Years & vibration have caused internal failure of your's.
Try www.z1enterprises.com for a new one.

They are easy to replace:

1.Disconnect the Negative terminal on the battery.

2.Remove the headlight from the housing.

3.Lower the housing by loosening the mounting and tilt adjustment bolts.

4.Inside the housing you should find a 4-6 pin connector that mates with the ignition switch to the main harness.

5.The ignition switch is secured to the instrument panel usually with two(2) Allen head metric fasteners. Remove them and the switch should come off easily.

6. Do the steps in reverse & you're done.

Thanks for the tips. What I'm concerned about is having to use 2 keys if I replace the ignition switch. Can ignition switches be ordered for a specific key code or can they be changed to fit another key? I'd like the steering lock, the seat lock and the ignition to be the same if at all possible.

Thanks for the Z1E link too - I order from Jeff whenever I can. Got some parts on order with him right now.

You might try the dealer for a complete lock set(not sure if it's available) or call around the local locksmith's and see what they say.

79MKII wrote: On my 78 KZ1000 A, the ignition switch is acting weird. If the motorcycle is running, the ignition switch will not shut off the engine. I can turn the key off, pull it out and walk away and the engine will still be running. If the engine is not running, the ignition switch turns the dash lights on and off. So basically it seems to function normally as long as it's not running but I have to use the kill switch to shut it down if it's running. Anybody ever have this happen? Thanks

Not sure if the 78 1000 is the same as my 900, but there are two "on"-ish positions on my ignition and the key can be removed from any position (isn't locked into the ignition). Is it possible that it isn't turning all the way to the off position?

Not sure, maybe the Z1 set (seat, steering, ignition locks) will fit your 78 1000? I'd call Jeff and ask. www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2625

I think it's turning all the way off because it shuts down all the lights as long as the engine isn't running....very strange that it doesn't once it's started.

I'll do a little searching into the 900 lock set. I might be able to find a used set but I'm sure the new ones are way over priced. I'll look though.

Have you tried some spray contact cleaner inside the lock mechanism? Maybe there is gunk built up in there that needs to be cleaned out.

DoubleDub wrote: Have you tried some spray contact cleaner inside the lock mechanism? Maybe there is gunk built up in there that needs to be cleaned out.

Not yet, but that's a good idea. I'll give it a try. I also want to figure out the wiring so I can test the switch and see exactly what is wrong. Those switches so a whole lot more that just turn on and off one circuit. Looks like the brown wire might control the +12v to the coil? I'll have to dig into it soon.

Assuming it's the switch, you can get another Kawasaki ignition switch and disassemble the parts and use your old key cylinder with the new switch. I've done it and it's not complex, but my nickname back in the old days was "switchmeister" as old TV switches and stuff were my business and Kawasaki switch is not complex. Of course to do this you need a good Kawasaki switch, you can't use any replacement switch sold through Z1 or anyone else. Different manufacturer, China vs Japan does not mix, you'll get an interratial relationship.

RonKZ650 wrote: Assuming it's the switch, you can get another Kawasaki ignition switch and disassemble the parts and use your old key cylinder with the new switch. I've done it and it's not complex, but my nickname back in the old days was "switchmeister" as old TV switches and stuff were my business and Kawasaki switch is not complex. Of course to do this you need a good Kawasaki switch, you can't use any replacement switch sold through Z1 or anyone else. Different manufacturer, China vs Japan does not mix, you'll get an interratial relationship.

The thought of repairing the switch with parts from another had crossed my mind. Glad to know it's possible. Thanks!

By the way, the ignition switch from mother kaw is priced at $115 and no "set" is offered. I'll be buying used for sure....

79MKII wrote:

RonKZ650 wrote: ...ignition switch from mother kaw is priced at $115 and no "set" is offered. I'll be buying used for sure....

Perhaps this replacement ignition switch from Z1E ---
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=369

Good Fortune!

Tried the contact cleaner...no luck. I could just kick myself for missing an auction on eBay. A used switch for my same key was on there and I forgot to bid again before it ended. I might never see another one??!!

I guess I'll buy a used lock set or find a used switch and try to swap the key cylinders.

By the way....the ignition switch is stamped with a "Z78". How would anybody know that this is for a 753 key?? I always thought the switch and the key would have the same number???

Kawasaki Ignition Switch Wiring

Here's my partial interpretation of the wiring diagram for the 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD.
And comes without warranty.

Red/white from bat+ terminal goes to 30 amp fuse.
White from the 30 amp fuse carries bat+ to ignition switch.

Switch ON connects white to white/black (feeds bat+ from white to white/black).

White/black (now carrying bat+ because switch is ON) goes to 10 amp fuse.
Brown from the 10 amp fuse carries bat+ to ignition switch.

Switch ON connects brown to yellow/red (feeds bat+ from brown to Yellow/Red

Yellow/Red from ignition switch feeds bat+ to OFF-RUN-OFF switch. When in RUN position, red wire feeds both ignition coils and also feeds the igniter (red into connector and Yellow/Red out of connector into igniter).


Kawasaki Key Code Series


170-174
175-195
176K-250K
251K-325K
3101-3150
3201-3250
326K-400K
401-470
701-720
706-710
751-795
8001-9000
801-845
901-925
A00-A99
B8001-B9000
E8001-E9000
G1-G35
KZ5001-KZ6000
N1-N35
RVS101-RVS499
Z5001-Z6000

Thanks for the info!

What do the key codes mean? Are all keys from the same series similar or something? My 753 would fall into the 751-795 series.

There are several used ignition switches on eBay without a key. Can I tell what key I need from the code stamped on the ignition switch?

RonKZ650 wrote: Assuming it's the switch, you can get another Kawasaki ignition switch and disassemble the parts and use your old key cylinder with the new switch...

Well, I guess I shouldn't have "assumed". After digging through a bunch of parts I found 2 other switches and both do the same thing! I don't think it's the switch although I haven't personally tested the other 2 used ones. I just find it hard to believe that they all have the same problem.

So if not the switch, what could it be then? It's the wiring somewhere but does anyone have a clue where I would start to look?? Key works fine to turn on and off everything unless the engine is running...then it won't shut off with the key (but does with the kill switch).

Posssibly, a wire or two has rubbed through the insulation,energizing circuits not meant to be "On", I'd look inside the headlight housing and any place where the main harness flexes.

Try this method of electrical troubleshooting:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

MFolks...and Patton...thanks for the great testing procedure. I guess I'll be digging into the wiring some time soon...

On a related note, I was able to take Ron's idea about switching the key cylinders and now have a working / matching ignition switch and seat lock for my 650 (another project)!

79MKII wrote:

DoubleDub wrote: Have you tried some spray contact cleaner inside the lock mechanism? Maybe there is gunk built up in there that needs to be cleaned out.

Not yet, but that's a good idea. I'll give it a try. I also want to figure out the wiring so I can test the switch and see exactly what is wrong. Those switches so a whole lot more that just turn on and off one circuit. Looks like the brown wire might control the +12v to the coil? I'll have to dig into it soon.

If needed ---



Good Fortune!

OK, got some more info. I FINALLY dug into the wiring a bit more today. First off, I realized that even with the key off, or the ignition switch completely disconnected for that matter, the motorcycle will start and run if I kickstart it. Could have been stolen at any time! oops!

That made me think that power must be going to the Dyna III ingition and coils at all times. When I tested the ylw/red lead that powers the coils (and ignition), it switches on and off as normal with the key and / or kill switch. I then left the test light connected to the ylw/red wire and kicked the motor....the test light flickers even with the ignition off. Somehow, any time the engine is turning over, power is getting to the ylw/red wire that feeds the coils (comes out of harness under tank). Even with the ignition completely disconnected (power and both coil feeds) the symptoms are the same (I thought the power might be feeding back through the ignition). BUT...with the kill switch off, the power does NOT feed through when kicked.

Has to be something with the stator and/or regulator that's supplying the power....but somehow tied into the kill switch....very strange.

Any ideas??