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kz900 not charging correcly 22 Jan 2011 14:52 #424429

  • jr.
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ok so my bike will not start without a charger the batt will not hold a charge however when it starts if i rev it up to 4500rpm and check the voltage at the batt its like 17 volts . so my question is if it over charges like that all the time could that be what riuned the batt cause it not even a year old .sounds like the regulator to me what do you guys think ?

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kz900 not charging correcly 22 Jan 2011 14:59 #424430

  • MFolks
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Try this testing procedure:

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place.

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.


Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com
F. www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com (not sure they have stators)


1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.


6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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kz900 not charging correcly 23 Jan 2011 07:25 #424643

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17Vdc... regulator shot most likely or crap connection...

Out of OEM Manual...

BTW... Z! Manual 99% the same... FREE ;)
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=434&Itemid=108
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az
Attachments:

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kz900 not charging correcly 23 Jan 2011 10:58 #424717

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ok thanks for the info guys problem is thats its so freakin cold here i cant stand outside and work on it so ill let you all know when i get it runnin better !!!

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kz900 not charging correcly 23 Jan 2011 12:37 #424734

  • MFolks
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If your bike has the seperate rectifier and regulator, you should purchase the combined unit to avoid a possible fire:

www.redlinecycle.com/rectifiers.html
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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kz900 not charging correcly 23 Jan 2011 13:04 #424740

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yes 17 is too high 14 is in the upper range
check Z1 enterprises their prices are usually better

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Last edit: by stonemaster.

kz900 not charging correcly 23 Jan 2011 15:38 #424792

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If not already done, would first use a different volt meter to confirm the over charging condition.

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1873

Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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Last edit: by Patton.

kz900 not charging correcly 23 Jan 2011 18:39 #424867

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Before dumping the regulator, make sure it's not jsut a bad connection, like OMR said. the simple way is to use a voltmeter on the positive post on the battery and the brown wire on the regulator. That will indicate how much drop there is from battery to regulator. There should be less than one volt, preferrably less than 1/2 volt. This needs to be checked during the same conditions that make the battery go to 17v. I.E. temp, RPM, length of time it was running etc.

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kz900 not charging correcly 24 Jan 2011 16:22 #425081

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Patton wrote:

If not already done, would first use a different volt meter to confirm the over charging condition.

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1873

Good Fortune! :)

yes this is the replacement i was goin to go with

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kz900 not charging correcly 24 Jan 2011 16:24 #425082

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loudhvx wrote:

Before dumping the regulator, make sure it's not jsut a bad connection, like OMR said. the simple way is to use a voltmeter on the positive post on the battery and the brown wire on the regulator. That will indicate how much drop there is from battery to regulator. There should be less than one volt, preferrably less than 1/2 volt. This needs to be checked during the same conditions that make the battery go to 17v. I.E. temp, RPM, length of time it was running etc.


do u mean if i put the black from me multimeter on the negative and the red on the brown wire from reg ? sorry im easily confused :(

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kz900 not charging correcly 24 Jan 2011 16:37 #425091

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The multimeter leads will go like this:

BLACK LEAD:to the battery Negative terminal or any good frame ground.

RED LEAD: on the small BROWN wire going to the regulator.

Set the multimeter on VDC (Volts Direct Current)Range of 20(this is as high as this range will read in this setting).

After starting with the meter out of the circuit, touch the leads where I mentioned to see what's going on with the charging system.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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kz900 not charging correcly 24 Jan 2011 17:02 #425099

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As pointed out by OMR check for a bad connection first. A jumper wire between the regular ground wire to the NEG. battery post, then a voltage test at 4500RPM will tell if the the reg. has taken a dump. Too many of our old bikes place the reg. on a mounting plate that may not have a good path to ground. Remember the motor must be up to operating temp to make a test.

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Last edit: by hoghaterkaw.
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