TOPIC:

Sorry...I meant to ask. What color wire goes to which connection on the ignition I bought. Battery, ignition, starter and acc? Thank's.

I hope I am asking the right questions. If it seems like I don't know what I am talking about you are right.

I'll have to make an update on the drawing. Hopefully I'll get a chance today, but it may be very late tonight when I get home.

Thank you very much. I put new connectors and connected everything except for the rear brake lights. Your diagram is very easy to follow. The only problem I am having is the ignition. I cut off all the wires from the old ignition and spliced them per your diagram to the new one. I attached the white wire to the ignition, the brown to acc, the white/black to battery and yellow/red to the starter. Other than that I think it looks pretty good. I can weld but not wire. Thank's again for doing this for me. By the way, thank you for the advise on the cheap ignition. My wife says if I am good I can buy a fancy one.

john8 wrote:

I attached the white wire to the ignition,

The white wire that originally went to the original key switch is where the key switch got its power. So, according to the diagram I'm using, the white wire from the main fuse should go to Batt on the new key switch.



john8 wrote:

the brown to acc,

This should work ok. Brown originally powered many things including the sense line on the regulator. Since it is important for the regulator to get voltage while the bike is running, I'm altering the circuit slightly so the regulator is connected to ignition. This way, a failure on the new key switch won't melt your electrical system. The Acc position will now power the lights only.


john8 wrote:

the white/black to battery

The black/white wire sent power from the ignition switch to the fuse block to power the lighting fuses. (Although, I suspect there may be some error on the factory diagram in this regard). Since there is now only one main fuse, the black/white wire is no longer used. The fuse wire goes to Batt, as mentioned above.


john8 wrote:

yellow/red to the starter.

According to the diagram, the wire to the starter solenoid coil is black. That wire will go to the Start connection. The red/yel wire is no longer used if the kill/start switch are removed.

The wire to the ignition is red, according to the factory diagram. This wire will go to the Ign as will the regulator sense wire as I mentioned above.

In drawing this schematic, I am assuming the configuration of the new key switch as follows:
Batt is 12v power from the main fuse.
Acc routes power from batt to accesories.
Ign routes power from batt to the ignition.
Start routes power from batt to the starter solenoid's coil.

Off position: nothing is connected.
Acc position: Acc is connected to batt.
Run position: Acc and Ign are connected to batt.
Start position: Ign and Start are connected to batt. (This position temporarily removes power from Acc.)

Or, to simplify it, you could just leave the Acc connection unconnected. (Make sure to cover it to prevent shorts because it will have 12v on it.) The lights will come on with the ignition (as it did from the factory).

Here is the simplified version.

EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000J1 using car ignition switch for John8 , version 2
Kz1000J Kz1000 J1 Kz 1000 J1 1000J1 1000J

Thank you very much. I will try this after class today. you are the man.

If I wanted to still keep the start kill switch could I put the yellow/red to brown and red from the coils and black to the black from the starter solenoid?

john8 wrote:

If I wanted to still keep the start kill switch could I put the yellow/red to brown and red from the coils and black to the black from the starter solenoid?

Yes, that would be like the first diagram I posted.
The new key switch would then only use the batt and ign connections, and simply be an on-off switch.

ok...cool. Thank's.

For Jigen. 1980 KZ750 G1 twin... kick only.


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EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1980 Kawasaki Kz750G1 twin for Jigen
Kz750G Kz750 G1 Kz 750 G 750G1 750G

When I can afford it, what is the best ignition that I can buy for my kz? Thank's.

If the motor is basically stock, then the factory electronic ignition is probably all it would need. New coils would be good.

There are many options for upgrades. Dyna 2000, MSD, and probably others, even a factory version with electronic advance would be nice.

In my opinion, the Dyna S would be a down grade from the factory one your bike came with. Not that it's bad, but the factory one is a little more sophisticated and more efficient.

I figure I should ask as many questions aas I can before you start to charge me. Is there a switch I can remove that will allow me to start the engine without pulling the clutch in. On my bike you have to pull the clutch in even when it is in nutral. Thank's

john8 wrote:

I figure I should ask as many questions aas I can before you start to charge me. Is there a switch I can remove that will allow me to start the engine without pulling the clutch in. On my bike you have to pull the clutch in even when it is in nutral. Thank's

Yes, the switch is actually on the clutch lever itself. Just connect the two wires together permanently. I usually leave that off on bare-bones diagrams.

I wanted to show you what I am working on.
I know some people don't like the bobber style look on these bikes, but I do. I made struts for it because I do not know if I want to put springs back on it or not. I made a pan seat, fender, sissy bar and forward controls out of scrap metal. I want to put a smaller tank on it, just not sure how small. Lot's more to do on her. I also have another kz1000 that I am going to rebuild that I want to bring back aas close to original as possible.

Nice project. I like parts made from scratch myself, so that's a +1. I agree on the tank too, definitely needs to go smaller.

I hope the crutches weren't anythjing major.

Third acl replacement and torn minicus this last time. Dec 6th was the last one, hopefully. I just finished the wiring. I am stuck on one part though, I'm sure it is right in front of my face. Ok.... Let's see if i can explain this. I want to use the ignition for on only and a kill/start switch that I got off of a kz440. I have the wires set up the way you made the second diagram. Can I put the yellow/red to the red from the coils and a split from the yellow/red start/kill button to the brown and black to black from start/kill to the black from ignition. Wow!!!I just read that back to myself,makes no sense to me. I want to add the start/kill into the second diagram and not screw anything up. If I did not give you a headache, please help me with this little dilemma. Thank's.

One area that Kawasaki changed the wire colors a lot was in the kill/start switch area. Different models use different colors, so it can get confusing. I could only find the colors for a 1981 KZ440 U.S. model. If it's a different year or from a different area, it may be different.

.

And as always, make sure to tape off the connections on that key switch.
I kept telling my buddy the same thing and he never did. His keys would dangle and short out on the switch posts. He kept wondering why the bike would stall and blow the main fuse, until I pointed it out.