TOPIC:

Hi conspiracy,
Check the float height using the clear tube method. If fuel level in the float bowls isn't right nothing else matters. Don't stress too much about the 0.7mm size. It's meant to get things close enough to run, so that one can use vacuum gauges (or mercury sticks if you're fortunate enough to have them) for fine synchronization.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Working in getting carbs back together. Decided to buy new screws for inside the throttle body but they are going in very easily. Has anyone replaced these screws before and maybe can helmet me find an exact replacement.

Hi Conspiracy,
Kaw PN# 16033-015
They may or may not still be available from Kaw.

Also available from Fastenal:
www.fastenal.com/products/details/016318...22Split%20Lock%22$|~

Both of these will be JIS screws. JIS screwdrivers are strongly recommended when working on any Japanese bike.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Nooooooooo
Broke a bolt off. Have to get it drilled out probably. Ugh this is so frustrating.

I realized I have 8 other carbs downstairs that I got from a guy in Craigslist. I guess I could clean up one of those and swap it out while this gets fixed

This guy has good quality gaskets.

www.redlinecycle.com/Carbs%20-%20Bowl%20Gaskets.html

I have my carbs back on the bike and it started up pretty easily.
I set all the air screw to the standard 1-1/4 turn before I put the carbs back on.
I set the gap on my idle adjust to 10mm per the manual. The screw is not affecting my idle at all.
I played with the air screw just a bit and noticed a few things:
After letting the bike warm up it is idling around 2500rpm. The manual say idle should be 1200-1400. I can increase idle by turning out air screws, up to 3000 or so biut have no way to adjust the idle back down.

The manual says that the goal of adjusting air screws is to achieve highest idle rpm, but I am concerned with it going too high.
I also read that if I am out more then 2 turns on the air screw that my pilot may be too rich. How far out is too far?

Thanks

Which 'mechanic' did you have work done by? I know of two in
your area that are old school drag racers that are good. And
they both have dynos also.


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I am looking into getting a stock air box and could use some help.
What all items will I need to replace pods with an air box?
This is what I have in my cart:
Air box
Air box lid

Do I need a breather pipe?
What about rubber connectors from the air box to the carb?

I am using z1parts.net but I do not see that they have any rubber connectors for a z1

Thanks

Nebr_Rex wrote: Is there an adjustment screw just to the inside of no. 4 carb?
Which 'mechanic' did you have work done by? I know of two in
your area that are old school drag racers that are good. And
they both have dynos also.


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Good morning!
My "mechanic" was a random Craigslist find.
I've since been given two other numbers:
Craig Stevens - Refered to as a genius with old bikes
H - Refered to as "best mechanic in the area with Kz and Z1

I am trying to DIY for a couple reasons: money, experience, hobby
I do however recognize that I will need someone to run to when I run out of: skill, patience, or when the money spent by my learning is less than paying an expert

To answer the question about an adjustment screw- there is an air screw on each of the four carbs. There are adjustment screws on top of each carb that I will use with a vacuum gauge, but I am not aware of any other adjustment screws. I have the z1b carbs.

I think I have an early air box, I'll look for it.
As for the high idle. How is your 'choke'/fuel enrichment circuit working?
If it's still rich according to the plugs and a high idle I would look there.


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And there is Robertson.


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Nebr_Rex wrote: And there is Robertson.


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Does he have a first name? I am super intrigued from the intro

Can you detail more about the choke/enrichment circuit? The choke is down and the plungers were all looking to be in good condition. The throttle pulley is resting on the throttle stop screw.
I've seen posts saying anything more than two turns out and the pilot is too rich, other posts however saying I can go up to 3 turns out on the air screw and be ok. Any input?
Also, at what RPM idle should I start getting worried about it being too high? I shut it down last night because I was nearing 3k

Also, I appreciate you helping me out and looking for that airbox