TOPIC:

Okay first off I have never worked on a motorcycle before so forgive my ignorance.
I am working to restore a 1981 kz750e that belongs to my father. I have a small list of questions for those willing to help a guy start riding.

Several years ago my father was doing a break job on the bike and noticed a leak at the fuel tank connecting carburetor 2 and 3 on the carb 3 side of the T. He was and still is unable to fix it due to a back injury. It has been sitting ever since with just a tarp covering it.

I just took on this project a month and a half ago. I managed a temp fix of o ringz and Teflon for the fuel t. I've seen several variations of this T available online but never the original.
Does anyone know if we can use the fuel T made for a different year?

Next I have the number 1 carburetor leaking almost to the point I'd call it draining from the overflow nipple. I took the carb apart and clean it up the best I could but it's still leaking. I don't believe it is the float hight because my father had them don't at a local shop.
Can a bad needle cause leaking just from the overflow?

Lastly I am wondering about the diaphragm in the slide carbs. Number 1 (the leaker) has a small (1 or 2 centimeters) torn spot. I've seen multiple people say they use gorilla glu, others say plasti dip
Can I use either of these to fix the torn diaphragm until I can afford the replacement?


Bonus questions can the torn diaphragm cause the fuel leak?
What are some of the best ways to clean all the oxidation off the bike.

Welcome to the forum. Thanks for being willing to fix up your father's bike.
The problems you mention are very common to old motorcycles.
The fuel T leak may be a bad O-ring. I am not aware of which other models use the same one, but you can check part numbers at the liks below.
The overflowing from carb 1 likely has two causes-- a float valve that is not sealing due to dirt, corrosion or improper fuel level.
Also, the fuel petcock (valve) on the fuel tank is not stopping the flow as it should. It needs to be disassembled, cleaned, and have all it's rubber bits replaced. Genuine Kawasaki parts are the best bet here.

You really need to get a genuine Kawasaki factory service manual for your exact year and model. They come up for sale online now and then. It will save you much more than it costs.
You also need some JIS screwdrivers, or suitably modified Phillips drivers. All those cross head screws are nut Phillips. Hopefully, 650Ed will be along soon to post his helpful introduction.
There are lots of helpful and knowledgeable members here. Don't hesitate to ask questions.




www.z1enterprises.com/store/model/kawasa...0/kz750-e2-1981/carb
www.kawasaki.com/Parts
www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/.../KZ750-E2/parts.html

Hi!
If your fuel tee isn´t broken, you should only change the orings.
Regarding the º1 carb leaking, don´t trust the local shop. Do a clear tube fuel level test. if fuel level is OK and the carbs is still draining... the brass overflow tube must have a hairline crack. Check it. You also need to check the fuel needle rubber tip and might polish the brass needle seats as well with a Qtip and some brasso.
You can fix the diaphragm with gorilla glue, but it will be a temporary fix. You can buy a good used slide/diaphragm over Flebay or just a new diaphragm from JB Industries. The slide/diaphragm has nothing to do with your fuel leak.

Oxidation of the bike? frame or engine aluminum?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere is the fuel tee on ebay...

Price seems like a ripoff to me. Before purchase you should confirm the tee is actually bad, and not just the O-rings.

The Keihin carbs on those early 750's are fiddly to set up relative to the float needle seal. The float needles are rubber tipped and often leak. The proper Keihin brand needles are quite expensive and the aftermarket are cheaper but not as good.

www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/018_880_su.html
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO5OMQG/ref...06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What ever you do don't purchase some junky aftermarket "carb kits" which are full of inferior jets and such. Just clean the OEM parts you have now and get new O-rings. I've got a full set of O-rings for those carbs if you are in need or check out Z1 Enterprises.

The oxidation is on the engine aluminum.

Thank you all for your wisdom and help. I'll do the clear tube check for fuel level and buy an O-set for the fuel tee and I'll keep you posted.

Hey everyone quick update on bringing my father's kz back to good. The float level was off and it did seem to fix the leak so I am moving onto the next.
I was looking at the air filters and I've seen a few people go to these 4 individual filters and remove the air box/ cylinder air filter. I like the look and it would give me space for another idea I have but before I commit. Do these individual filters on the carbs have any major draw backs?

Those individual filters are commonly called "pods." PLEASE use the search feature on this site and plug in the word pods. You will see that there have been 9,538 postings on that subject. It has been beaten to death with pros and cons. Ed

If you are going to run pods you need a jet kit. Dynojet is the best. About $100. Cheap knockoff K&N pods are low quality and will lead to even more jetting headaches. If you are going to go for pods get the real deal or stay home. Uni brand pods are okay too, but are more fragile than K&N's.

Thanks. I looked at 5 or 6 different posts on here and I think for now at least I will go original. The airbox is in great shape and other than making working on the carbs much easier, it was mostly for looks.

Any preferences suggestions on how to clean up the rust on the frame/pipes or the oxidation on the motor?

For cleaning up the exhaust I use Turtle Wax chrome cleaner and elbow grease. Some people use more aggressive cleaners but you gotta be careful or the chrome can get damaged. Engine wise, I'd pull off the engine covers and use a power buffer. The repaint the black portions. No easy solution there.

Thanks a lot nessism. I'm not afraid of the elbow grease in fact it can be very fulfilling to see it go from old worn and faded, to vibrant again.
Part of the reason for the project is that very enjoyment.

As far as the turtle wax chrome do you recommend a cotton cloth or a regular rag or a brush of some kind?

OK guys it's been a while since I've been here so I'm giving an update with a few new concerns.
First off IT LIVES! Than you guys for your help and suggestions.

Now for new issues.
It's starts up great and idles at 2 1/2. 3 without choke which seems odd when it's cold.
As its idling it will pop. I thought vacuum leak or plugs. I checked the plugs, 1 and 2 are dark and wet but 3 and 4 are wet but lightly colored.
Also when it pops a small amount of fuel seems to be coming out of the number 1 exhaust pipe.
Please help. I feel like I've taken 1 step forward aND 2 steps back.