TOPIC:

No offense, but if you want to mess around and swap cams, pistons, compression ratios, pipes, etc you should learn how to jet on your own. It's not hard, and can take alot less than a week (age of this thread) to do.

Mild modification like you have done you always start with stock settings and tune from there. If you had some 1500cc drag bike with ridiculous mods and parts it might be another story, but then again, a person that built it wouldn't be asking how to jet it.

I understand how to jet and to work my way through it, but I was just hoping for a jump start and just some discussion during the long work weeks before I can get down to business. That way I could order parts and jets and whatever else I would need and save some time. I know a lot of people do the cam swap and 1075 kit so I was just picking peoples brains.

But I guess what I did learn is that the jetting shouldn't change too dramatically with the 1075 kit and cams. I thought it would have been a lot more dramatic.

I'll just start from stock settings and work my way through it, no big deal. I'm not trying to be confrontational, so hopefully this won't get perceived that way. Thank you for the responses!

davido wrote: Whoo,now hold on a minute Baldy 110. A 1075cc will run (properly) with standard 1000 cc (998) jetting?

It has been my experience that as long as the bike was jetted correctly prior to going to a lager bore then it will run pretty good after going to the bigger bore. It might need some final tweaking but it will run pretty good.
On my KZ650 I had it jetted perfect for a 4 into 1 pipe and pod filters, no other mods. I then modded it with a 720cc kit with high compression pistons. I did not have to change the jetting, it ran perfect. A few years later I upped it an 810 kit and GPz750 cams, guess what didn't have to change the jetting, it ran perfect.
Unless you are seriously modding the engine like a big block, really high lift cams, porting, ect. the jetting will pretty much be the same if it was jetted right before the changes.
What usually happens is the carbs are not jetted perfect prior to the changes but it runs ok. The owner then adds a bigger pistons and cams. Now the bike is no longer running right and they have to re-tune. The reason the jetting changed was it was not correct prior to modding the engine. I call this fringe jetting, good enough to run ok but not perfect or correct. Most people just tune the carbs till it runs OK then stop. I like to tune mine until it is perfect that way I don't get any weird carb issues when the weather changes or go up or down in altitude.

freebyrd24 wrote: So for stock airbox and stock exhaust, I will try out out the stock settings and go from there.
Now what if I changed the exhaust? I have a couple of options. I could put slip-on's with removable baffles on the 4-2 setup. And I also have and could use a Vance and Hines 4-1 with a removable baffle. I never plan to run these wide open, I just want a little louder than stock. What would you recommend for jetting, needle position, and air/fuel mixture for those two options? I am going to stay with stock airbox for now, so obviously taking the carbs on and off to change jets is a pain.

I installed Allens to make it easier to change jets and to get to the floats.
Steve