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THIS is why you add an inline filter 16 May 2012 12:43 #522699

  • Arthur A
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650ed wrote: The brass tube is 1 11/16" long (see pic). Because the length of the tube is what determines the amount of fuel left in the tank when you must switch to reserve, shortening the tube will reduce the distance you can travel on reserve. Can you use emery cloth to correct the damage? Ed

Attachment PetcockTube.JPG not found



Thanks for the measurement.

My brass tube is approximately the same.
May risk cutting off the damage and flare end, under a 1/16".

Then use emery cloth to create a slight taper if necessary.

Will let you know how it goes, sometime next week.
1977 KZ650 C1 stock
original owner

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THIS is why you add an inline filter 28 Nov 2012 20:42 #560378

  • cfaherty
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cfaherty wrote: I have mixed feelings over too much fuel filtering due to the extra maintenance. I have in the past had to replace small inline filters several times during the year due to sudden clogging. I have also had some of them break in half. I always carried a full length of fuel line just in case :-)

:sick: didn't follow my own advice. Just a reminder to carry a full length of fuel line or have a bypass if you are running any kind of fuel filter in addition to the petcock screen. Like clockwork mine clogged up with some mysterious invisible particle and left me near stranded, only to limp home a mile at a time.
1983 KZ750 F1 LTD Shaft

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THIS is why you add an inline filter 29 Nov 2012 10:18 #560444

  • martin_csr
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I would drain & rinse the tank into a clear juice container & inspect the debris. Then use a flashlight to peek inside the tank. I thought mine was in good shape as the metal was fairly rust-free at the opening. I went ahead & rinsed it w a 50/50 muriatic acid solution as a just in case. But it has rust where you can't see. doh.

Note: you can use cheesecloth in a funnel as filter to reuse the gasoline. Some of the debris may be from fueling up the bike. I'd guess all sorts of particles end up in the service stations' tanks, including iron from the pipelines.

Note: I use the filter Patton posted on pg 2 but discovered that the ends get soft & bendy. Not sure if it's from the ethanol or if they're using a different/cheaper plastic?

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Last edit: by martin_csr.

THIS is why you add an inline filter 29 Nov 2012 10:52 #560446

  • Patton
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martin_csr wrote: ...discovered that the ends get soft & bendy....

It helps where possible to route the fuel lines so the filter fits into a relatively straight section.

Where a tight turn at the filter is necessary, a possible option may be a 90° filter.



Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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THIS is why you add an inline filter 29 Nov 2012 12:05 #560463

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Routing isn't the problem. The plastic has softened. :)
I'll probably switch to a metal fuel filter some time in the near future.

Edit: I said the ends are "bendy" - not bent. routing isn't the problem. see following comment.

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Last edit: by martin_csr.

THIS is why you add an inline filter 29 Nov 2012 15:03 #560485

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martin_csr wrote: Routing isn't the problem. The plastic has softened....


The plastic barbs do indeed soften, but the plastic in its softened more pliable condition doesn't tend to bend and distort when fitted in an unstressed position between relatively straight sections of fuel line.

Routing can be the problem, as the softened barbs may not present much of an issue unless the fuel line is routed whereby the barbs are stressed in holding their shapes by a curved fuel line that's exerting slight sideways pressure against the softened barbs.

Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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THIS is why you add an inline filter 29 Nov 2012 23:04 #560566

  • cfaherty
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martin_csr wrote: I would drain & rinse the tank into a clear juice container & inspect the debris. Then use a flashlight to peek inside the tank. I thought mine was in good shape as the metal was fairly rust-free at the opening. I went ahead & rinsed it w a 50/50 muriatic acid solution as a just in case. But it has rust where you can't see. doh.

There's never any debris. I just dissected the errant filter and like always it is visibly clean. It's at least four times on different bikes that this has occurred. I thought maybe it was just my two strokes, but nope, this one was no different.

I don't know what it is. Some kind of crystals or corn growing. I have to usually pick some crap off the needle jets after a while too, and anything with under #30 pilot forget about it, it will clog up in two months if not run. I've got a scooter with a small pilot which has that problem.
1983 KZ750 F1 LTD Shaft

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THIS is why you add an inline filter 30 Nov 2012 01:14 #560579

  • loudhvx
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cfaherty wrote:

martin_csr wrote: I would drain & rinse the tank into a clear juice container & inspect the debris. Then use a flashlight to peek inside the tank. I thought mine was in good shape as the metal was fairly rust-free at the opening. I went ahead & rinsed it w a 50/50 muriatic acid solution as a just in case. But it has rust where you can't see. doh.

There's never any debris. I just dissected the errant filter and like always it is visibly clean. It's at least four times on different bikes that this has occurred. I thought maybe it was just my two strokes, but nope, this one was no different.

I don't know what it is. Some kind of crystals or corn growing. I have to usually pick some crap off the needle jets after a while too, and anything with under #30 pilot forget about it, it will clog up in two months if not run. I've got a scooter with a small pilot which has that problem.


Is it a paper filter for cars? Those always stop flowing for me after a few months. I think it's the alcohol in the gas partially dissolving the glue in the filter, then clogging the paper with it.

If I force the gas through it, it'll work for day or two if it's not too hot outside.

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THIS is why you add an inline filter 30 Nov 2012 10:32 #560619

  • indianajames
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i have one of the metal cased ones for low pressure car applications and it does the same thing , im tired of giveing my tank a blowjob on the side of the freeway , but it fires right up and runs for a few days and does it again . tank is spotless inside , so i know its not debris doin it . anybody useing somthing that works ?

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THIS is why you add an inline filter 30 Nov 2012 10:39 #560621

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sorry just read the rest of the the thread , thanx patton

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THIS is why you add an inline filter 01 Dec 2012 17:10 #560821

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loudhvx wrote: Is it a paper filter for cars? Those always stop flowing for me after a few months. I think it's the alcohol in the gas partially dissolving the glue in the filter, then clogging the paper with it.

The last one I just removed was a little pancake filter like this:


Prior to that I used a small scintered one like this, but it snapped in half.


Now I am just running a straight 1/4" line from the stock petcock, running on pri or res. I rebuilt and cleaned the petcock not too long ago. With the pancake filter it was running dry within a mile, actually stalling, and now without a filter (just the petcock screen) I was able to run two trips 30 mi each. However on each trip I had an episode where my lambda (installed on #2 header) was reading fuel starvation at part throttle.

So I'm not sure. Could be just the same symptom, fuel delivery issues. Seems like it is really marginal. Or it is just one or more of my carb slides sticking or something. Darned thing runs great other than the random bouts of part throttle fuel starvation, which is really frustrating.

I'll probably look at it again when I redo the fuse box. Maybe it's got an electrical gremlin.
1983 KZ750 F1 LTD Shaft

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Last edit: by cfaherty.

THIS is why you add an inline filter 02 Dec 2012 00:47 #560894

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cfaherty wrote: ...was able to run two trips 30 mi each. However on each trip I had an episode where my lambda (installed on #2 header) was reading fuel starvation at part throttle...runs great other than the random bouts of part throttle fuel starvation....

Fuel starvation sometimes results from a clogged vent in the fuel tank cap.

Next time such symptoms occur, could run with the cap ajar, to determine whether adequate venting may resolve the issue.

Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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Last edit: by Patton.

THIS is why you add an inline filter 02 Dec 2012 02:25 #560902

  • loudhvx
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cfaherty wrote:

loudhvx wrote: Is it a paper filter for cars? Those always stop flowing for me after a few months. I think it's the alcohol in the gas partially dissolving the glue in the filter, then clogging the paper with it.

The last one I just removed was a little pancake filter like this:


Prior to that I used a small scintered one like this, but it snapped in half.


Now I am just running a straight 1/4" line from the stock petcock, running on pri or res. I rebuilt and cleaned the petcock not too long ago. With the pancake filter it was running dry within a mile, actually stalling, and now without a filter (just the petcock screen) I was able to run two trips 30 mi each. However on each trip I had an episode where my lambda (installed on #2 header) was reading fuel starvation at part throttle.

So I'm not sure. Could be just the same symptom, fuel delivery issues. Seems like it is really marginal. Or it is just one or more of my carb slides sticking or something. Darned thing runs great other than the random bouts of part throttle fuel starvation, which is really frustrating.

I'll probably look at it again when I redo the fuse box. Maybe it's got an electrical gremlin.


I use that top filter in your picures. I have never had a single problem with it, so maybe the flow problem is something other than the filter in your case.

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