Hi every one i am new to this site and i did a bit or searching before and did not come across any answers for my query. I am in the process of restoring an 81 GPZ1100 which has a little over 13K miles on the clock. Bike has been sitting for quite some time and i have decided to convert to RS34mm Mikuni carbs. Its going to be getting a new Kerker Manifold as the original was ruined by some one trying to patch it. What i need to know from some one who has done the carb conversion is the connectors from the loom which will be loose after eliminating the fuel injection system, for example, do i leave in place the FI computer? does it need the FI computer for ignition system and start up, do i need to do any rewiring?
Any special reason why the conversion should not be done? I really would have prefered to have the bike left standard but 97% of the research i did pointed to a rather unreliable trouble some system. I repair automobile fuel injection systems on a regular basis so the Kawa sytem did not frighten me, what caused concern was what appeared to be poorly manufactured components which can challenge any good tech. I guess if no one had tampered with the system i would given it a try, but then i quickly discovered that the Air Flow Sensor is shot as some one had that opened for all moisture and what ever else to lodge there. I do not need this bike to break any performance records, i just need it to be smooth in its power delivery.
It should show how the FI system is wired into the ignition system.
Many thanks for the link, i did the down load and the diagram is straight forward(at least the part that i was looking on). Any opinion on the conversion i am about to do. I am competent in electronics and electronic fuel injection systems so if i can get my hands on new parts i can get it going but i have read where the standard 1100 with FI was no prom date, which i would take to mean they were a handfull to manage, u have a lot of experience with these, what do u think.
Looks like a real good example . Cost is irrelevant . If you can stand looking at it that's good enough .
Experience ? Sorry to laugh but with just 5 members here I could easily document 200 years total experience . I probably won't have to introduce you the post and the pic will draw them in .
From the looks of it the stock coils may have been replaced . At least the wires have been . The stock coils come in two flavors , crap and soon to be crap .
Now on to the real info :
1) adjust the valves unless you are confident that the PO has recently adjusted the valves . then do it anyway
2) never run or ride on anything but a fully charged healthy battery . the stator on these bikes has always been a wee bit suspect but the rest of the charging system is more or less bullet proof . Custom Rewind -- High Quality Remanufactured Motorsports Electronics, Rotors, Stators, Ignition Systems just in case . Gary just gets it right .
3) the front forks are ok for the era but marginal if they go without service for a long period of time . they respond very well to just a complete disassembly and reload of oil . if you're going to ride it consider progressive springs . this is one front end where I don't like the cartridge emulators . a good word for the emulators I tried would be spooky and disconnected from the road . up to you ...
4) if in need of a chain and sprockets you may want to consider a 530 conversion . the stock 630 chain is incredibly heavy and has a habit of transmitting it's inertia to the rear suspension . although the sprocket sets can be had cheaply on e-bay pass on the included chain . modern 530 O ring chains are every bit as tough as the original 630 and will with care last every bit as long .
5) The front brakes need constant attention . mainly just disassembly and cleaning . in the odd case a tiny bit of grease on the back side of the pad and scuffing the pad and rotor with some 80 grit will cure most ills . if the pads are still metallic (bronze sintered) get rid of them and use a quality semi metallic . full metallic will just trash your rotors in short order and unless you are racing the slight decrease in braking performance won't be missed or even noticed . replace the brake lines w/ braided steel covered Teflon . replace the brake lines w/ braided steel covered Teflon . did I repeat myself ? must have been a reason
these bikes are torque pits . near bottomless bucket full of low end torque. with a little bit of minor engineering an extra friction plate can be fitted . this is a better option than aftermarket clutch material in the long run . you need to acquire the kz400/440 clutch steel plates they are just enough thinner that an extra friction plate can be fitted with just a little modification to the release mechanism.
you should take a look at the swing arm pivot as most I've seen are corroded and just plain shot . a disassembly , cleaning and re-lube may be all it takes .
tapered needle bearings in the steering head . if it doesn't have them already it's just the thing to do .
that should be enough to wrap your mind around for now.
If you really plan on changing to carbs, two things will need to be done to the tank:
1.Re-locate the fuel control valve(Petcock) as it will hit the top of the carbs.
2.Seal off the return line from the fuel pressure regulator to the tank.
Okay, still no mention of why a carb conversion may or may not be good. Anyways i am going to see if i can salvage anything from the existing FI system. I see a lot of complete systems on ebay from time to time. Does any one sell new parts for these such as airflow meters?fuel pump?
Okay after a bit of thought and a lot of advice i decided to go with a set of new Mikuni RS34mm carbs from dynoman performance. The GPZ is now completely stripped down for a total respray(going with the ELR scheme) and replacement of what ever worn parts i find, so far so good, swing arm bushes look good so i will service those. It needed new tires and it took a little while to get the size but i got some dunlops. I did not get to take before pics but i will add before reassembly, hopefully a video with the engine running.