TOPIC:

Im looking at a KZ1100 Spectra on CL right now. Wanting to do a turbo build and I suppose im wondering how much is available in the aftermarket world. I thought the hard part would be putting it all together but it turns out that finding a good platform to start off with is the worst part. I have an 81' KZ1000 that would be ideal but i can't bring myself to turn it into the drag bike that I want and condemn it to the strip.

The 1100 is shaft driven, Id want to do the chain drive conversion (easy enough).
I got on KZ Zone and found that they list parts for the KZ1000 or the GPZ1100 But not the KZ1100. What all is interchangeable if anything?
My main areas of concern are pistons, cams, head gaskets, and the clutch basket.

Thanks guys,
KT

Spectre is basically an 81 1000 bottom end with an 1100 top end.
The head on these is also the same sought after big valve bathtub head from the 83 Unitrack but with 29mm over bucket shims (same as your 81) instead of the Uni's 13mm underbuckets.
Cams are mild.
Convert to chain using 1000 J or early pre 83 gpz1100 gearbox output shaft.
Use head and base gaskets for the GPZ1100 and the rest can be from either 81 onwards 1000 or 1100.

AWESOME. Let me figure out my finances and i might just be starting a turbo build.

Ill have the bike at the end of the night. So heres some new questions regarding what fancy internals will be going into this motor.

Im currently on KZ Zone making a list of everything i plan to get for the build. Are the tool steel shift shafts all that necessary? Same with the HD output shaft? Also, how strong is the stock clutch basket? I figure with a lockup assembly and aftermarket clutch pack, the stock stuff should hold up okay. I was also looking at starter plates. I thought it was for an extra bearing support but i don't see one in the picture. I think the cover looks cooler than the stock one and i can make my own outboard starter with a car starter motor but i don't want to spend money that i don't have to.

Otherwise APE studs, billet second gear, aftermarket goodies for the clutch one way or another, and forged pistons. Ill probably run the stock rods and have the crank welded.

Forget all the tool steel trinkets and HD output shaft.
Unless you are getting into 250hp plus, 1428 big blocks and Vortex heads with nitro you don't need that much stuff.
Just all the usual upgrades you would put in a performance/turbo road KZ.
Forged pistons.
Welded stock crank (stock rods are STRONG)
undercut box and Billet 2nd gear.
HD head studs.
Crank support plate.
Lock up clutch.
Early steel clutch basket can replace the later alloy one but again only needed when you get serious.
This is all I have in the orient express and it hasn't broke even with all the traction from the 10 inch slick ( which is what breaks bottom ends )
You can even get away with the stock valves but stainless exhaust valves will handle the heat better if you start producing decent power.
The inlets stay relatively cool because of the forced intake.

Thats great news on the rods. I was kinda scared about those. I have access to a Bridgeport mill and a lathe. My dad has a CNC machine so im going to have him make me a spacer for the clutch cover. kinda got me thinking as far as fabrication and machine work go. I see that the teeth on the dogs just get chamfered in so they lock together. What are my chances on maybe doing the back cut myself? I plan on running over 10lbs of boost, might even be shooting for 20 and i plan on using a slick. I'll be investing in the Dyna 2000 (though i was really digging the belt driven distributor idea) I had thoughts of making my own out of a 4 plug HEI dist. I know the pulleys are 2:1 ratio and it would cut down the cost of the Dyna setup. is the crank support plate the one that covers the area with the AC generator? I might take a crack at making that too. Just use a double row NSK for the bearing and find the right seal from CR. (i worked for a bearing company for a while there )

Also, are titanium valves better than stainless? I see the price difference and i feel like thats a dumb question but one thing i really wanted to get crazy with was the top end. Might even look into different cam shafts.. I wanna go far with this project.

Ti valves are 40% lighter than steel but Ti valves don't conduct heat as well as steel so you need beryllium copper seats to avoid them burning out.
You will never need Ti valves unless you end up in the vortex head and nitro territory I mentioned earlier .
Yes ! if you have a mill you can back cut the gear dogs ( maybe practice on some old gears first )
Crank support is for the main bearing cap, only really needed for high power motors that shift the crank around in the cases but every man and his dog seem to fit them even in mild tuned motors when it's of no benefit.
A better mod is to hollow dowel the cap to the case at the bolt holes so it can't wriggle around.
The generator blanking plate that takes a starter nut only has a seal . Doesn't need any outrigger bearings.
As for boost , as mentioned earlier we are running 30 psi with the same motor spec I have suggested with no issues and my ROAD Turbo Z1R will see 20 psi from time to time on a similar set up.

Awesome info. I really appreciate it man. I got the bike sitting outside now. Some fins broke off the cylinder head, bent handle bars and a god aweful air brushed flame paint job. I think it got wrecked in the past but it rolls over smoothly and evenly. Ill bark it to life with some starter fluid just for kicks and post a video before the teardown.

Theres the bike I picked up last night. The VIN says October of 1981 so that would make it an 82' right? Figured Id test fire it while its still together. Tank and fenders have an awful airbrush flame paint job with an ugly lookin' skull. Horrible exhaust leak between the head and the pipes. Some fins are broke off both heads and the bars are bent. Pretty sure it got wrecked at some point. Wiring harness doesn't look cut up or anything and it came with a boatload of extra parts (some of which are from an XS1100) so over all im happy. Engine sounds solid and doesn't smoke. Can't wait to tear it apart

Over here in England If it says 81 then it's an 81 and it also may be based on the early GPZ11 and not have the bathtub head which came out in 83.

Ahh well. Ive decided on larger valves and porting anyways. Id like to make as many of the parts as possible for this bike. The main bearing stiffener plates, i assume they just go over top of the main bearing caps? I would like to make those myself out of steel plate. I'd put in hollow dowels as well. I should be able to make the EGR caps for the valve cover. I was going to use the AC generator cover as a template and make my own starter plate. The clutch cover spacer should be easy enough with the use of my dad's CNC machine. To cut down on the cost of the Dyna 2000 ignition (and it doesn't have launch control, just rev limiter according to description) I am going to make my own belt driven distributor setup. Im sure i could wire in a Dyna 2 stage rev limiter to work with it too. As for the head spacer plate, whats a good rule of thumb to figure out thickness/decreased compression ratio? I could probably tackle making that too.