TOPIC:

Hey guys I have always had an issue with my clutch release mechanism. When I would adjust the clutch per the FSM the bike would never roll freely with it in gear and the clutch handle pulled all the way in. If the bike is running I could adjust it to where it would not go anywhere but I know the clutch was still at least slightly engaged. The bike has always been like this. I just recently installed a new APE push rod and Roller Clutch Push Rod Kit. This seemed to help a bit but I still can not get the bike to roll freely in gear while holding the clutch in. I seems to me that this is due to lack of extension from the stock release mechanism. This is really why I was wanting to convert to a hydraulic clutch. Has anyone else had this issue and corrected it? If so how?

I had a similar issue that was traced to warped clutch plates. Couldn't see any flatness issues in the parts but after replacing with new OEM parts the dragging issue was gone.

Do you have the worm gear type or the ball and ramp?
Steve

swest wrote: Do you have the worm gear type or the ball and ramp?
Steve

Worm gear.

Nessism wrote: I had a similar issue that was traced to warped clutch plates. Couldn't see any flatness issues in the parts but after replacing with new OEM parts the dragging issue was gone.

Thanks. I can look at that. I almost replaced the whole damn pack with one from APE.

I'm surprised. Have you tried not backing out the screw 1/4 turn. I don't do it anyway.
Steve

swest wrote: I'm surprised. Have you tried not backing out the screw 1/4 turn. I don't do it anyway.
Steve

That would not help. If I back the screw out 1/4 turn the clutch would engage less when I pull the lever. My concern is that the clutch is not fully disengaged while I am holding the lever in at a stop with the engine running. Perhaps I need to just replace the clutch plates.

I'll agree with Nessism on this one - from afar, my guess is warped or coned steel plates, damaged fiber plates, or something like that. It only takes overheating the clutch once to do that kind of damage. Also note that a stack of extraordinarily fat fibers might look fine but still drag with the clutch pulled in. A previous owner may have installed an aftermarket clutch kit with extra plates in the hope that the clutch won't slip under heavy load, too. In any event, sounds like it might be worth it to pull the clutch out and examine it carefully.

No, wait - check your helix type clutch release for travel /wear, first... then pull the clutch out...

Before you do even that, how bad is it dragging? Not wanting to sound like a "did you check to see if it is plugged in and the power is turned on" type comment - but even a healthy stock clutch drags a little when the lever is pulled...especially with cold / high viscosity oil.

kaw-a-holic wrote:

Nessism wrote: I had a similar issue that was traced to warped clutch plates. Couldn't see any flatness issues in the parts but after replacing with new OEM parts the dragging issue was gone.

Thanks. I can look at that. I almost replaced the whole damn pack with one from APE.

Just a warning - all of the riders I know that tried the APE "extra plate" kit were not happy with it on the street (in the long term)...strong as bear yes, but a bit more grabby and hard to modulate while accelerating away from traffic lights / stop and go traffic. And when cold they draggggggggggg......although my stock R1 clutch drags even more when cold...Stepping into first cold, even after blipping the throttle w/ clutch in several times, it always goes KRUNCH (very annoying / alarming). I'm not looking forward to taking that one apart...

I have two of those APE kits unopened and one that was removed barely used. They are best for the weekend warrior drag bikes in my opinion. For the street - stick with stock, EBC, or Barnett (if you can still get them)...just my two cents...

Kray-Z wrote:

kaw-a-holic wrote:

Nessism wrote: I had a similar issue that was traced to warped clutch plates. Couldn't see any flatness issues in the parts but after replacing with new OEM parts the dragging issue was gone.

Thanks. I can look at that. I almost replaced the whole damn pack with one from APE.

Just a warning - all of the riders I know that tried the APE "extra plate" kit were not happy with it on the street (in the long term)...strong as bear yes, but a bit more grabby and hard to modulate while accelerating away from traffic lights / stop and go traffic. And when cold they draggggggggggg......although my stock R1 clutch drags even more when cold...Stepping into first cold, even after blipping the throttle w/ clutch in several times, it always goes KRUNCH (very annoying / alarming). I'm not looking forward to taking that one apart...

I have two of those APE kits unopened and one that was removed barely used. They are best for the weekend warrior drag bikes in my opinion. For the street - stick with stock, EBC, or Barnett (if you can still get them)...just my two cents...

Thanks for the feed back. The clutch plates are stock. It was slipping so I took is apart and sanded the varnish off of the plates. There are no extra plates. The friction plates have been replaced but they are cheapies not EBC's. I found some Barrett plates on eBay new for $50 so I will get those and a quality set of EBC friction plates.

Those "extra plate" clutch packs damage your aluminum clutch basket and cause grooves to form at an accelerated rate because the ears that fit into the notches in the basket are thinner than stock. Once the notches form the clutch won't release cleanly with the lever pulled in. That's another thing to look at when you open up the clutch.

I suggest you use genuine Kawasaki friction plates If you can find them. They work perfectly well. Ed