TOPIC:

Alright I got the new rings and valve shims. I ended up needing another base gasket because I screwed up the first replacement. The cylinders and head are both back on the engine after a few hours of yelling at them. The engine turns freely. I am in the process of reinstalling the buckets. One of them doesn't seem to want to go back in. After I figure that out I will be ready to reinstall the cams and retime the engine. I am not seeing any timing marks on the 550 engine like I have seen in 650 and Z1 videos. Can anyone tell me how the cams should be placed?

I am in the process of reinstalling the buckets. One of them doesn't seem to want to go back in.

Swap the bucket with another, you might have a broken valve spring - you are going to grind the valves in? well worth doing, plus new guide oil seals.

Cam timing is detailed in the manual, just aligning the marks flat with the head and counting the links on the chain.

The valve seals have all been done. The bucket just took a little more wiggling and it slid in fine. I'll take a look in the FSM for the marks. I've only been using the Kawasaki manual for torque specs. I should probably purchase the whole book at some point and throw away the clymer

The Free Kawasaki Base and Supplement Manuals are in my signature.


...or you could buy a set off Ebay.

CoreyClough wrote: The Free Kawasaki Base and Supplement Manuals are in my signature.


...or you could buy a set off Ebay.

Corey, when you use the new Kawasaki 3 layer metal head gaskets, do you find they need re-torqueing more than once or do they stay compressed after the first re-torque, after running the engine for first time?

You should never need to re-torque the head after doing it the first time. Kind of defeats the purpose of torqueing it in the first place. Follow the manual's recommendation for the pattern. I do is an initial torque at 1/2 the recommended value, then the second one at full value.

CoreyClough wrote: You should never need to re-torque the head after doing it the first time. Kind of defeats the purpose of torqueing it in the first place. Follow the manual's recommendation for the pattern. I do is an initial torque at 1/2 the recommended value, then the second one at full value.

Just replaced the head and base gasket, with all the O-rings and updated oil pin (nozzle) and am interested to see how it works. Don't have those nice studs, like you.

I'd aways retoutque it when cold, at least once after a new head and base gasket. They can loosen just a bit over time and retigtening does no harm.

If they are all tight, no probs, If some have loosened a bit, then it needs doing. I usually work the tourque up in a few steps, maybe half a dozen working in sequence listed in the manual.

I finished putting everything back together today. The oil leaks are gone but the engine is running pretty badly. It took about 5 minutes in 100 degree heat to warm up enough to come off of choke and it was still bogging. The battery was low from sitting for a month so I am recharging it now. Another issue I am having is that I split the exhaust in half to remove it at the cross pipe that runs under the bike. I am not able to make the two pieces slide back into each other. Are there any tricks for this?

I fixed the exhaust problem but the idle is still weak for the first 15 minutes of running. I have to turn the idle knob almost all the way in and then back it out as the engine warms up. Even with doing it the engine still wants to shut off when it's not on full choke. I figured it would be a vacuum leak so I sprayed around the usual places with carb clean and there were no changes in idle. What else can cause this?

nickleo373 wrote: I fixed the exhaust problem but the idle is still weak for the first 15 minutes of running. I have to turn the idle knob almost all the way in and then back it out as the engine warms up. Even with doing it the engine still wants to shut off when it's not on full choke. I figured it would be a vacuum leak so I sprayed around the usual places with carb clean and there were no changes in idle. What else can cause this?

So many possible causes. Sounds like a vacuum leak, but since you have eliminated that, would consider taking the valve cover off and verify cam timing, just to make sure.