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If you have sticking valves that are so bad they are preventing the effected cylinders from running then you will also have extremely little or no compression on those cylinders too and no amount of WD and hammer action will cure it.
You need to perform a leak down test to determine which valves are not closing ( if any ),
If you have some compression on all cylinders and there is not a massive difference between them then I would say you are on the wrong track and your problem lies elsewhere.
Even with a slightly bent or non seating valve the compression will rise faster than it leaks out and will allow combustion to occur.
You say you are getting good compression readings on all cylinders ?
What PSI readings are you getting ?
If you do have good compression then chances are that non seating valves are not your problem.

I assumed they were sticking by poking around the internet and figuring the symptoms, obviously, the internet isin't always right. Typical. I thought of a sticky valve aswell because the bike had been parked since 1987 approx so after the years something could of gotten stuck? I figured. Before I was going to actually try the method of "smacking" it I was going to look at what it could be. I guess clearance could be an issue. But what's got me thinking it's not the clearence is this bike was my mothers grandfathers, he bought it new back in '85 I believe, he rode it till 23,000 KM then he got ill and passed away and the bike never moved from the shed until now. Last time he rode it it ran good and started good. I'm not saying it's impossible, i'm just saying.

I'll go ahead and buy a kit to see the clearence, see if they need shimming.

Over 90% of the time, a long stored bike will have carb problems. It sounds like there is still dirt clogging passages or jets. Ultrasonic cleaning is the best way I've seen to get them truly clean.

Yes, I did that. Here's my way : I (obviously) dismantle the carb apart, changed the floats (brand new OEM ones from my Kawi dealer, don't know where or how he got them, but he did) all the metal parts dipped in a sealed bowl of break cleaner for 48 hours (usually 24hrs, but I was gone so they stayed 2 days) then remove everything, blow compressed air, pass a thing guitar wire through them, blast some more break cleaner through, more compressed air, then for the carb metal parts brush with Crest Pro white tooth paste for around 3-5 minutes, spray break cleaner and wipe.

After I did that and tried the bike still not running on 4, I brought the carbs to a mechanic to do it for me, incase I screwed up. This is why i'm excluding the carbs. Maybe, they're not synced, but they worked good last time it ran and I can't really get them synced without the engine running..

Anybody know where I could find some new OEM valve seats? My father told me if i'm there to change them while i'm at it so i'll listen. I found some used ones on ebay but that's it.

I assume you mean valve seals, not seats, as the seats are not replaceable and part of the cylinder head. To replace the seals it means removing the cylinder head and removing the valves that means having the correct valve compressor tool or modifying/making one. Valve seals go bad and cause oil consumption. You'll know more when you take off the top and check valve clearances. If for example valve clearances on your non running cylinders are unusually large, then the assumption would be bent valves. I've never in nearly 40yrs owning these Kawasakis have heard of a stuck valve in a KZ. Good luck, and hopefully checking valve clearances will reveal that the valves are not the problem. Even though carbs have been done fully, the carbs are still main suspect, secondary is ignition problems.

daren1093251 wrote: ............ changed the floats (brand new OEM ones from my Kawi dealer,...................
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How did you go about setting the fuel level in the carbs after replacing the floats? Ed

Brake cleaner is not a good carb cleaner. Try carb cleaner, it has a totally different chemestry. You still have dirt in those two carbs. Keep after it and you will get it.

Well I did it by eye, but like I previously mentioned I brought them to qualified mecanic to fix and inspect them so i'm sure he did them right, I should call him and ask but he's usually good.

I'll try that, thanks. I usually have no issues with break cleaner but I guess with tons of gunk adding up.

measure the coils and wires and check the points and timing... then read the rest of my suggestions.

Where to start.

The best thing you have going is the information about your bike. That it was running well and then parked. Most of us bought a KZ with limited history and could only cross our fingers. With that being said you need to check some basic things WITHOUT OPENING UP THE MOTOR that was running fine a few years ago.

#1 Get yourself a FSM (a genuine Kawasaki Factory Service Manual, for your bike year and model).

check the exhaust for being clogged, nuts, bones, seeds
check the plugs
check the oil level
fresh gas (rotate that petcock back and fourth 20 times)
check the air cleaner is "ok" and nothing in the air box
clean carbs (not with brake fluid)
replace old points - set timing
new battery
use the kick starter to get it running
does it run?

After the bike is running then valve shims, carb syncs and a bunch of other adjustments need to be done. If the bike was running well then the valve clearances did not change from sitting idle, only a running engine and mileage with wear engine parts.

Corrosion is a different topic.