TOPIC:

If you have the "KZ750 Four" Kawasaki Service Manual look in the "Adjustment - Engine" section near the front of the manual. In it you should find a sub-section called "Valve Clearance." The shim table is there should be around Page 13. If you have a Clymer or Haynes manual good luck. Ed

I have a clymer manual

Can anyone take a picture of their's and post it for him?

Waynecarpenter wrote: I have a clymer manual

You really need to get a Kawasaki Service Manual if you plan to do your own maintenance. In the mean time -

Your a good man Ed.

Ain't he a Peach?!

650ed wrote:

Waynecarpenter wrote: I have a clymer manual

You really need to get a Kawasaki Service Manual if you plan to do your own maintenance. In the mean time -

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... figuring .002" change per shim size would be just terribly taxing on one's brain... I can see why a chart would be needed for such a drastic feat....

Figuring the shim size is the easy part.
Taking the cam's and bucket's in and out
to change them's the pain.

I'd bet there's a shit load of old shim under motor's
running around that never had the valve's adjusted
because of labor cost's back in the day.

Here's a site w a pdf manual & wiring diagrams. mbsween.bike-night KZ750L3 page
Scroll down & click "The Bible" link. The pdf isn't the greatest, though.
I would get one from eebbaayy or books4cars or somewhere.

Note: not applicable to the 750E models, but some of the wiring diagrams are mislabeled in the links. The 1981 Ltd is an H2, the 82 is an H3, & the 83 is an H4. search tags mbsween KZ750L3

zukdave wrote: Figuring the shim size is the easy part.
Taking the cam's and bucket's in and out
to change them's the pain.

I'd bet there's a shit load of old shim under motor's
running around that never had the valve's adjusted
because of labor cost's back in the day.

The catch is those bikes didn't even need shim under valve train, it was complete overkill for stock cammed motors. Even the 83-85 GPz11, the bike with the most cam ever from the factory did not need shim under valve train.

With shim on top buckets there's the oil groove in the top of the bucket. That's the culprit that causes a shim to be spit. When the cam lobe contacts the shim too far forward, the shim can be rocked down into that groove on one end. When that happens, it's possible for the shim to be peeled up and out. What determines if that's going to happen or not is the cam lobe design.

As for difficulty...that's relevant to the guy with the wrench in his hand. My nephew leaned how to do the valves on his z400 when he was about 12 years old.

From where I sit and I'm not a kid, if somebody can't do basic math in their head like figuring required shim size by adding / subtracting .002" increments.... then they probably don't have the skills to remove and correctly install the cams back into the motor anyway....

All this crap of needing metric feeler gauges is exactly that...CRAP...what's needed is some basic education but that's not happening these days either. Now with Common Core being adopted into the system I can imagine where simple feats like this will end up. Perhaps something like .....if the cam lobe is purple and the current shim is red, add yellow for a correct lash setting of orange

.. WAIT.. perhaps there's a cell phone app for that

For good or bad, that's where the world is headed. They stopped teaching celestial navigation at the U.S. Naval Academy years ago. Now they depend on satellites to tell them where they are. So when the bad guy knocks out the satellites the ships won't know where they are.

I use metric wrenches, bolts, etc. on the bike. As far as metric feeler gauges go, no they certainly are not a necessity, but considering they are cheap and the manuals show specs in mm rather than inches, why not use them? Ed

I'm with Larry on this, I can do the math in my head. If you can't, your man card needs to be revoked and your tools need to be confiscated.