TOPIC:

I just did my valves,springs and seals. It ran great but smoked at start up, fouled plugs every 2-400 miles, just didn't have the money to do it. Finally I got everything together. It ran even with oil fouled plugs. The problem must be elsewhere, A lot of times it's the pilot jets being clogged. It's hard to tell because the opening is so small. I use a small guitar string to clean them out. Choke cleaner with the tube to clear the passages. Yes the voltage will drop slightly when the kill switch is turned on. Normal. Lay the plugs on the head touching a bolt turning it over and see if there's any spark. Sometimes a shorted battery will rob the bike of enough power to run it too.
One thing at a time.
Steve

I did check the valve clearance a week ago or so and they were :

#1 intake .076 mm fits
#1 exhaust .127 mm fits
#2 intake .102 mm fits
#2 exhaust .076 fits
#3 intake .051 fits
#3 exhaust .063 fits
#4 intake .063 fits
#4 exhaust .127 fits.

Are these within specs ?

I also checked the compression and it is:

#1 105 psi
#2 100 psi
#3 95 psi
#4 100 psi. These are with the bike cold and the throttle fully open.

0.05 mm-0.10 mm is the spec for 1973-78. Your compression seems a bit low but if they are all close to one another it is just probably worn rings.. It might burn a bit of oil but it will run

Just my opinion but I would try to get those valve clearances closer together......especially the exhaust ones on 2 and 3......they get the hottest and would need more room. Compression #s are ideally measured when motor is hotter with open throttle as you have done

The compression sounds kinda low-maybe time for a rebuild.If you had a spare set of coils to test it with it might be worth a try.I've had similiar problems with a bad coil.Sort of an intermintent thing.The bad coil got hot to the touch.A cheap part like a condenser can be a problem too.
Good luck.

Your compression numbers and valve clearances are all typical of a good used motor. Nothing that would prevent the motor from running. I think I have said all I can say. Time to take it to someone that can do something about it. These are very simple engines that if you do not have enough knowledge (no disrespect intended), time to take it to any legitimate motorcycle shop and get them to service it. Over to you.....

Thanks for all of the replies.

Tripleted, I didn't take any disrespect with your comments. I have a guy that can rebuild the motor, but he if trying to find a machine shop, the one he used to deal with is out of business. While he is trying to find a machine shop, does anyone know of a reputable place that can rebuild the motor ?

Did you get it running? If it runs the compression could come back up.
Where are you located?
Steve

No disrespect taken. You probably still have a good motor that will run very well if you take the time to clean the carbs and change the point/condenser and very important to sync the carbs. These motors are very durable. If you decide to rebuild to rebuild the motor count on replacing the rings,head gskt, base gskt,cam chain,and maybe top end valve grind to a tune of $2000 after all is done. Post your progress of the bike. Thanks.

.
STOP...

I really get upset when I read a post and the owner is pointing to engine rebuilding without fully understanding the cause of the problem. Several ideas have been mentioned here that do not require rebuilding an engine (I actually don't recall what engine you have), nevertheless it's your absolute right to go ahead and do whatever you believe will fix the problem.

In my experience a perfect factory crate engine (I only wish) will not guarantee a bike will run right. Compression in the perfect factory engine will most likely be "perfect" however spark and fuel need to be as close to perfect as well. Until you are certain everything else is functioning to factory spec (consult your Kawasaki Factory Service Manual), I do not suggest you have your engine rebuilt. please find a KZ Rider in your area to help you understand the problem.


... just my '79 cents.

BIGKEVIN
Where are you located ?

I to was going through the same problem. bike did not run right and #2 cylinder was colder then the others.
If your carbs have never been rebuilt..i suggest you do that first.
if it run before it was park then somthing is wrong with your carbs.
i have heard about the clutch sticking when bike sits for a while but it has never happen to me.
i took my 26mm apart and all of the o-ring's were hard and the one in the air pilot jet...2 were broken apart.