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Compression & Leak down numbers 28 Oct 2014 04:33 #651966

  • chconger
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Yes the head is off & stripped down. Its easy to go fast if your not spending any money (yet)

I revisited my valve stem / guide "wiggle" more carefully last night and found that all of them wiggle exactly the same, and not much at all.

I also did the "air pop" test; with a wiped down (no excess oil) valve stem in the guide, i plugged the top of the guide with my finger and pulled the valve out, each one made a "pop" as it came out.

So I am calling the guides / stems good, and moving on.

Plugged the guides with golf tees in anticipation of a lot of carbon cleaning to come this week.

I am thinking on following this process here for cleaning up the head, lapping:



Cheers
Chris
1977 KZ 1000-A

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Last edit: by chconger.

Compression & Leak down numbers 28 Oct 2014 19:55 #652041

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So tonight things started like this










And after a lot of easy off and a brass wire dremmel i have the head like this





I do see ever so slight pitting in the ex seats. Welcome any comments. Will lapping take care of this?

Have not got to the valves yet.

Chris
1977 KZ 1000-A

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Compression & Leak down numbers 16 Nov 2014 11:54 #653845

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Been a while, but so far I have lapped the valves and pulled the cylinder block and pistons, And discovered that soda blasting is a beautiful thing.

I also found the center of the cylinder block was caked with dried mud & rocks to the point where air could not pass through around cylinder 2 or 3 adjacent to the cam chain tunnel. For some time there, I just assumed the block was solid in there..but it turned out to be 38 years of road crap wedged in. So at least Ill have a lot better cooling next season.

I found that the cylinders were quite glazed. Could not see any of the original cross hatch. I expect that is responsible for some of the compression loss.

There is no visual signs of wear or damage on the cylinder walls. So I bought a flex hone, and will have a go,

Scotchbrite mistake:

Made the mistake of using a scotch-brite pad to help clean the crank case deck. Did not realize this was a no-no till 2 hours after i finished. Most of the gasket was removed with a mahogany scraper I made, I only used the scotchbrite by hand, to "finish up", And the pad was wet with gasket remover, so dust was not flying around or anything. I did cover the holes down to the crank the best i could with rags, But I am sure there is aluminum oxide pieces into the oil feeder passages adjacent to the outer rear studs. I am sure because I did not cover them..

This image below is not a KZ 1000 but its the closest thing i can find on the web to illustrate. I am talking about the passages that are heading up to the cams.




If i started the bike without cleaning these passages the dust would be heading to my cams fast.

So I drained the oil and plan to pour kerosene over the crank a couple of times in case there is anything sitting on them. But haven't figured out what to do with the oil feeder passages. I was thinking of taking off the bolt on the side where this gauge is (for illustration ...not my bike)



And then i am thinking to pour kerosene into the passages on the deck and have it flush out there.

The only other way i see is to drop the pan and remove the oil pump...then flush it all down and out.

Any suggestions are always welcome!

Thanks
Chris
1977 KZ 1000-A

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Last edit: by chconger.

Compression & Leak down numbers 16 Nov 2014 16:16 #653869

  • spdygon
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best and only way would be to seperate the cases...sorry
1982 GS1000sz Katana ( #15...17K Miles)
1982 GS1000sz Katana ( # 297....7100k Miles)
1978 Kz1000 Z1R. 10K Miles1
1978 kz1000 z1r 27k miles
1977 KZ 1000 A ( Project ) 54K Miles
1976 Kz900A4 (Red)21K miles
1976 Kz900A4 ( Red)7500 miles
1974 Z1 900 project

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Compression & Leak down numbers 18 Nov 2014 06:16 #654034

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spdygon wrote: best and only way would be to seperate the cases...sorry



Ugh...your right.

The galleys feed right onto the crank and there is no way to confirm & clean them without removing the crank.

Last night I found that the galley holes that sit on the deck just under the base gasket were partially caked up with old gasket sealant. Actually the holes appeared plugged, and up till then I had assumed it was debris from my adventure cleaning the deck. But it really was loose flaps of gasket sealing stuff stuck in there on the walls of the holes. Looks like something from day one.

So that's good; as that gasket stuff would have helped partially plug the holes while I was ignorantly scotch-briting.

I was able to pick this stuff out and clean up the passages.

I followed with a vacuum over the holes to draw out any dust in there. Then, I blew compressed air into the right side plug of the main galley, so stuff would be forced up the holes in the deck.

Then I went the other way, and blew compressed air down into the galley holes with the side plug still removed. Then I repeated with kerosene flush and compressed air.

So those things make me more confident that I have it covered, but not 100%... as some of it could have gone down to the crank.

At this point I am guessing I have a less than 5% probability of a particle in the galley on the way to the crank.

As I said...ugh. What a f**k up. There is a very good chance I am OK...but if I am wrong.

If I split the cases...what are to opportunities, I can go after while I am in there?

Chris
1977 KZ 1000-A

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Compression & Leak down numbers 19 Nov 2014 14:34 #654150

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Made my decision, and pulled the crankcase from the frame last night. I take it to the basement Friday and start the tear down.

I read that this aluminium oxide stuff on the scotch-brite pads is 40 micron; sounds pretty small. So I guess Ill never know if I needed to do this. But that's still better than wondering if I did.
1977 KZ 1000-A

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Compression & Leak down numbers 07 Apr 2015 09:18 #666954

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650ed wrote: So the bottom line is that you simply want to pull the engine apart whether or not there is a problem that requires such action. That's ok, I guess, but it seems like a waste of time, money, and energy to me. :blink: I would rather just do a normal tuneup, including adjusting the valves as needed, and ride. Let us know if you get the engine running again after taking it apart. Ed



Just to close on this...





Still need to sync the carb's again.
1977 KZ 1000-A

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Compression & Leak down numbers 07 Apr 2015 11:26 #666966

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I'm glad to see you got her running again. Good job! Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Compression & Leak down numbers 07 Apr 2015 12:41 #666970

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Thanks Ed

Biggest challenge was right at the end; setting up the cam timing using the wrong marks. I was millimeters away from posting a very different video of bent valves today. Only luck saved me.

Cheers
Chris
1977 KZ 1000-A

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