TOPIC:

Firstly my bike is a 1983 kz750-h4 ltd.

I was attempting to adjust the clutch pushrod from the access cover on the left casing.

After that I pulled the clutch lever and heard a pop. The lever wouldn't retract afterwards.

I completely pulled the right casing off as well as removed all the clutch plates. Bad idea I know :l put that side back together still need a new gasket unless any of those make a gasket sprays/tubes from AutoZone work?

Pulled off the left casing and removed clutch cable. Old one was very gummed up so I replaced it. Hooked it all back up and there is little resistance in the lever and clutch doesn't disengage so I can't shift gears unless the bike is on the stand.

Any ideas what I can look for to correct this? Or any more info needed?

You must use a gasket - definitely do not try to just goop it up with sealer.

It sounds like you do not have the manual for the bike. If this is true, you are begging for trouble pulling things apart and trying to put them back together without the manual; that is a very bad idea.

I suggest you stop at this point before you create bigger problems for yourself. Buy a manual, then undo whatever damage you may have caused. The Kawasaki Service Manuals are usually available on eBay. Be sure to get the one for your exact model/year bike.

No one has EVER regretted buying the manual. It is worth its weight in gold. Ed

I actually have two manuals for the bike but neither outline what could be causing the problem with the clutch.

Did the old cable break? Just wondering if the pop was a broken cable or something else.
When installing the new cable, did you inspect & check the operation of the clutch release mechanism? And you're sure the clutch end of the cable is properly seated?

When doing the clutch adjustment, on some models, you're supposed to turn it counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

In the manual it said to turn the screw inward then back off a half turn. Inward was clockwise. But I do believe the problem is in that area.

The old cable was whole but the sleeve on the lower end was so packed with dirt and grease I could barely move it with some pliers.

I put the new cable exactly how the old cable sat. And cleaned and greased the operating arm and bearings. The spring may be wearing down but I know that isnt the main issue. I have a feeling it has something to do with the pushrod but I dont know enough to find out. And the manuals dont explain how the clutch actually operates haha

whirlwind598 wrote: ...............And the manuals don't explain how the clutch actually operates haha

Am I correct in assuming you are using some crappy Clymer, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals? I ask because Kawasaki Service Manuals have VERY detailed descriptions in the MAINTENANCE - ENGINE section on exactly how the clutch operates. Ed

Some Kawasaki factory manuals & the one for the 750-4 chain drive, are ambiguous as to which way you're supposed to turn the clutch release adjusting screw. I think it's counterclockwise first on your bike, since it has the same slotted screw as my 81 650-CSR.

Some guys don't realize the owner's manual is kinda hidden in a pull-down document case on the underside of the seat.

One is but the other is from kawasaki. Its a pdf on my phone probably why im having problems reading it

Gonna take my baby to a friends and see if they can make sense of it. From looking at it and comparing to the manuals it just doesn't make sense why it isnt working now

Did you try re-adjusting the clutch by turning the screw counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 turn?

The pop. My guess is if the clutch adjustment doesn't do anything, then you'll need to figure out what popped. If the old cable didn't break & the new cable is correctly installed, then the next thing to check would be the clutch release mechanism. Can you tell if it's operating correctly?

Note: there are 2 types of mechanisms for the 750H --- you'll have to compare yours to the diagrams to figure out which one you have. My 81 650-CSR has the spiral ramps & when fiddling w it, you can see how it operates.

I tried that today and it d idnt feel any different. Im hoping im understanding you correctly. Mine has three bearings under the operating arm. When the clutch is pulled the arm rotates on the bearings causing it to push to rod and disengage the clutch or is it engage? Haha

Can anyone link me to a manual for this model bike? My pdf is for a gpz similar but this is one of those big differences. Im on mobile so finding these things is more complicated