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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 15:12 #516504

  • jeffecor
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I had the mechine shop go thou my cycle head and replace three bent valve. I put it back together and the engines turn slowly every be jump the battery off the car.. sometimes turn the engine gets stuck turning and i have to manual turn it. i just rebuild the starter last night everything look good with that.. i was wondering if the start clutch is going out? in side the engine. if you had these problem please help thank you.
1980 Kawasaki 750 h1 ltd

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 16:36 #516519

  • MFolks
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What shape are the related heavy duty cables going to and from the battery,starter motor,solenoid, and engine mounting bolt? If any of them are loose, or corroded, the curent path is reduced.

Battery cables can corroded internally,greatly reducing their current carrying ability. The test them, give them a flex, if they feel "crunchy" replace them with equal ofr larger size.

Welding supply stores might be able to make up new cables for you using 6 AWG welding cable. If they can't, possibly a battery shop can do them for you.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 16:39 #516520

  • TexasKZ
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Is the battery good? 13-14 v with nothing on? Are the sides of the battery bulging? If so, it's trash. If it passes those tests, a load test is in order.

Once you are absolutely certain that the battery is good, then you can begin a systematic cleaning and checking of the electrical system between the battery and the starter motor.

If the starter clutch is bat, you are likely hearing some loud crunching noises and the starter will sound like it is spinning 10,000 rpm.

See also - www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/51639...urns-over-wont-start
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 17:22 #516529

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Since you had the head off how was the rest of the motor ?
Did you turn the motor over while the head was off to check and see that their was no other problem than bent valves ? Im sure now the compression is a whole lot higher now with a fresh valve job but motor should turn over freely

Original owner 78 1000 LTD
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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 18:22 #516534

  • baldy110
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When you put it together did you couble check the valve/cam timing? It would suck to get another bent valve.

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 21:31 #516565

  • les holt
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What happened to it that caused the bent valves in the first place?

Les

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 21:44 #516566

  • jeffecor
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The machine shop went thou all the valve on it and lap them in and clean the head up. He told me there was three bent valve that was the Napa machine shop.

This head was off a motor i bought so i don't know how they bent the valves.. I'm going redo my timing chain tomorrow again make sure its not having problem there...

The battery is new these year, but i even jumped the battery off the car...

It well turn sometimes and it well get stuck every now and then i have to turn it manual.. that's with the spark plug out too.

I ran the jumper cable straight to the starter
1980 Kawasaki 750 h1 ltd

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 22:14 #516578

  • les holt
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Are you confident you have cam timing right? Gut feeling speaking here but I'm guessing you have bigger problems elsewhere. Hope I'm wrong! Did you happen to roll the motor over with the head off?

Les

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 22:33 #516584

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i turn the motor with the head off it.. it turns fine.. the pistons was replaced last year and got maybe 6,000 them now. I'm just see what i should look at first.. If its the starter clutch i well put the other motor end back together and swap the the top end over to that motor.
1980 Kawasaki 750 h1 ltd

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Last edit: by jeffecor.

cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 22:36 #516585

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I'm going to make a video of it tomorrow if the timing dosn't fix it and put it on youtube so i can show you guys what the problem is..
1980 Kawasaki 750 h1 ltd

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 22:56 #516589

  • APE Jay
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Larry;
It is your turn to tell them about taking their heads to automotive machine shops. :laugh:

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 18 Apr 2012 23:25 #516591

  • jeffecor
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No this guy knows what hes doing.. hell he build the motor that was in Corvette that out ran the state troop at 202 mhp... a lot of people told me to take it there too... i think he did a good job on it.
fyi these is the second head that hes worked on for me..

wtvbam.com/news/articles/2011/jun/22/hig...se-suspect-arrested/
1980 Kawasaki 750 h1 ltd

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 00:56 #516602

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I want to see the pictures of your bike with a Corvette engine in it. ;)
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 01:12 #516604

  • LarryC
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APE Jay wrote: Larry;
It is your turn to tell them about taking their heads to automotive machine shops. :laugh:


Funny you mention that Jay :laugh: I have that head from New Mexico that I'm finishing up for Velocity Cycles. What a meess..... KZ head, had 38.6 /32's in it. Going to be run with .500 / .470 cams with 1.00 base circles.

Had 7 PM buckets that varied in thickness from .103 - 1.09 and ONE stock Kaw bucket :ohmy:

The guy had 300 shims in it and could stack feeler gauges under the lobe.

Needs a 1.523" installed height for use with a set of your .107 buckets. They were all under 1.460".

I turned the 38.6's into 37.8 and the 32 exhausts into 31. Sunk them and ported it for 1428 motor. You cannot get a KZ port large enough for a 1428 motor no matter how many places you burn through and epoxy... but you can get a GPz11 to work pretty well.

This one's for Max. It just got new exhaust seats. I was able to save the intakes but the nitrous played hell on all the seats.


Attachment Gpz11-1428IntakePorts.jpg not found

Larry C.
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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 02:00 #516609

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How did they get 38.6 /32 in a KXZ1000? Did it have oversize seats in it?

I ran into something I have only seen a few times in all of the years I have been doing this stuff. A KZ1000 head without the valve job finished from the factory, on the exhaust side only. Intakes were finished.

It looks like the seats were opened up like we would do of a real performance head, then where the 45 should be, it is just a sharp corner. I believe these heads had the valve jobs done in stages, and this one missed the last stage. Now a days, all of that is CNC so it would never happen.

I had it in the Serdi when I noticed it, so I cut one of them, then took a photo incase anyone ever doubts me when I tell this.

If you have never run across this, let me know and I will send you a photo.

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 02:14 #516611

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I have been thinking of something lately. When those KZ heads are porrted that big, there is not much area for the rubber manifold to seal when it is installed. Usually have to build up some silicone around the back to make it seal good.

Suppose when you started, you took one of my nitrous plated and bolted it to the head, epoxy around where it meets the port in back, then port the whole thing. Thern as you can see, there would be great sealing for the manifolds on the front. You can put 1/16 pipe plugs in the nozzle holes if it is not going to run nitrous.

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 08:57 #516626

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APE Jay wrote:



I have been thinking of something lately. When those KZ heads are porrted that big, there is not much area for the rubber manifold to seal when it is installed. Usually have to build up some silicone around the back to make it seal good.

Suppose when you started, you took one of my nitrous plated and bolted it to the head, epoxy around where it meets the port in back, then port the whole thing. Thern as you can see, there would be great sealing for the manifolds on the front. You can put 1/16 pipe plugs in the nozzle holes if it is not going to run nitrous.


That's exactly what I'm doing Jay. Customer was already into the ports with a porting tool hogging the entrances and the nitrous mainfold. Cut them so thin a couple spots the manifold would not seal. Epoxy is the solution.
Larry C.

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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 09:25 #516631

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les holt wrote: Are you confident you have cam timing right? Gut feeling speaking here but I'm guessing you have bigger problems elsewhere. Hope I'm wrong! Did you happen to roll the motor over with the head off?

Les


Unfortunately, I'm with Les here. If your cam timing is incorrect, you may have already bent your valves again. You say that the motor turns freely with the head off, but won't turn with it on even though the plugs are out. To me that means that the valves are hitting the pistons. If you had so much compression that it was hard to turn over it wouldn't be an issue with the plugs out. The machine shop can do a perfect job on your head, but if the cam timing is out, then you are crashing valves.
1978 KZ1000 A2 Click--->Build Thread
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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 12:30 #516664

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I well pull the head back off and do a leak down test too today.
1980 Kawasaki 750 h1 ltd
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cycle head rebluid now the engine turn over slowly 19 Apr 2012 15:47 #516688

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Do the leak down, then pull the head after if you find problems. I know the cam marks are misleading to say the least if you don't have clear instruction in front of you or considerable knowledge with them. Good Luck getting it lined out.

Les

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