TOPIC:

turboguzzi wrote:

thanks for the tips larry

so not much to do about the strong "S" line in 1 & 4?

my concern is that flow cant really stick to the outside wall (the right wall in cyl 4 for instance) so essentially the effective section gets chocked there and most of the flow conitnues to the pocket space left of the valve guide

The other thing i was considering was raising the floor a bit around points 4-5 for some venturi effect at the ssr.

Stock valve size in the GPZ is 34mm BTW, both port entry and throat are 29mm internal diameter = 660 sq-mm

Throat is common size for Kawasaki 2V sport bike motor at 85% of valve diameter if it's 34mm.

Punch throats to at least 88%. Push the seat all the way out on the face of the valve.

Punch exhaust throats to 90%. Push the seat out on the exhaust valve as well.

been pushing quite a bit on the cycle side....

gonna run a shortened tail, so some mockups for the seat base

top

gsxr shock in place

shock reservoir secured..

muzzy style adjustable link pull arms

for quick rear height adjustment

fork air pressure blocked off

anti dive removed, holes shut, damper piston welded, re-drilled for stiffer damping.

aluminum axle spacers, also drilled up the second pinch bolt hole for better axle clamping

lightweight rear caliper and hanger

as well as 20mm hollow axle, oversize bearings and ally spacers.

simple reaset is cheap to replace in a crash, gsxr MC, R6 brake pedal, quite a mix..