TOPIC:

before closing the sump, took the gallery plug out, gave it a proper cleaning....

and "shaved" the oil level sensor

the boring stuff is finding a solution to hold the seat, overflow tank in kawasaki green, etc...

cool find on the oil pump .
you are getting closer all the time.

leon

CoreyClough wrote:

What oil are you planning on using? Redline 20w/50 here, and plan to change the oil and filter after every race weekend.

You shouldn't have to rebuild that bottom end at all, after all you are doing to it. Top end, maybe, but I can't see you doing the bottom.

I am also using a Daytona Oil Temperature Gauge (ShindyPro.com) tapped into the oil pan for oil temperatures, and checking it on a long straight, I'll see 208 degrees F regularily, and that using an oil cooler from a Zephyr ZR550 too. Being Oil Cooled, you gots-ta know.

I modified the low oil level sensor to fit the temp probe:

I was using a Dyna Shift Minder, but now am now use a Raptor Shift Light. Small, 3-wire connection, and easy to adjust at the light:
www.raptorperformance.com/

...as seen in this video set at Infineon last year:

Great Videos!

I take it that's a mixed class ???

Good to know. Makes me wonder if the bypass valves are different from the older Gpz.

I'm using the 82 pan with the galley plugged at the front on the 91 zephyr motor. Feed oil from the rear with a captured o ring AN adapter. 180 AN fitting to feed the oil cooler. Cooler return is to the front of the pan in the normal location. Since the cooler and pump are 91 zephyr wonder if I'm getting full flow through the cooler or recycling some. I do have both valves but do not remember if I swapped them before install.

Hmmmm.....

I had a snug fit placing both AN up front chose this route to keep the feed fitting/hose away from my pipe as much as possible.

Thanks for sharing all of this prep.

I was gurnta(going to) tap my oil temp probe here, but when I found out it sat right against the exhaust, I opted to move it to the oil level sensor.

Keep up the good work!!!

+1 on the level sensor mod.

Just for the record.
The Zeph pan has the casting for the level sensor but was not machined out.

Wanted to have options hence modded the 82.

Never connected the sensor and now have something that could be useful. Great suggestions.

Wonder if the case plug under the ignition would be a good spot to pick up pressure? Off to go look at the oil diagram again.

Great thread, and what a good find on the oil pump! My 750s will be getting those.

Your solid engine mounts are exactly the same as mine.

I assume your race series does not allow you to upgrade the forks? Keep up the good work.

KZR, I did pick oil pressure from that plug under the points cover in my other racer (see avatar) and it worked real fine. but why not get instead a full 83-85 oil sump that's got everyhting ready?

Still got to check clereance to the 4-1 pipe i've got, looks tight

thanks lorcan

first ebay one was really bad, looks like it chewed quite a bit of scrap steel, second one was really good, hope to get a refund...

big package form the US arrived, time for the clutch

dont like the idea of oil getting trapped and centrifuged in the inner basket , hence drilled some holes for draining

ordered a spare steel plate to make a basket holder tool

in action

using the cyl block to lean against..

how do you delete messages????

anyway, soaked the barnett kevlar plates in oil for 10 mins. as required (left) stock friction plates (right ) had zero wear, will keep for spares..

instead of getting stiffer clutch springs, why not preload them with .040 copper washers? pressure at the lever now is pretty stiff, hope the kevlar plates and the increased preload will be enough to cope with the improved power

well, right side of motor is ready too,

cyl block is already bored to 69mm but still got to measure squish, so its there only to mock things up.

that is a great pic show for a clutch holder....thanks...i wont forget that when the time comes....excellent...weld free method

Bin the Barnetts, stock plates are best. Barnetts tend to shed fibres and block the oil strainer.

Kibblewhite do some nice "red" racing clutch springs intended for the 1000 but they also fit the 750. Nice and heavy, your clutch won't slip with those in. Washers probably won't be enough.

on my CB500/4 racer, the barnetts cured some mild clutch slip i was having with stock plates.

I change oil at every race weekend, so maybe that's the reason i never had trouble with them? cant recall seeing anything bad in my strainer in my yearly motor tear downs

I realize now that you are mr 750 turbo.... yep, i bet your forced induction babies will be happier with more oil.

I wasnt aware of the difference in pump capacity either, just thought about getting a relatively fresh pump from a newer model, opened up the pump i bought to check the internals were fine and only then discovered that the zephyr's rotor is quite a few millimeters wider than the gpz's. might be worth checking part numbers to see is if the newer ZR7 pump is as big, guess it is. more opportunities to find them.