TOPIC:

The clymer claims there are 17 bolts. I can only find 16. Can anyone out there verify if there are 17 bolts on a '76 900?

Is there something I can leverage to take the thing off without damaging any of the precious aluminium one I verify I have all the bolts out? The engine is still in the frame - I had a brain fart and lost a bolt down the crankcase.

is the filter out?

Take a 2x4 and beat the snot out of it with a BFH until it breaks loose once you have all the bolts out. They can be unbelievably tough to break loose. Cleaning the gaskets off is even more fun. I suggest a scotchbrite disc on a small grinder or drill along with gasket remover. Wear eye protection, the gasket remover is bad stuff on your eyes as in make you blind

That's what I was worried about - is there any percentage I can find the bolt with a magnet-on-a-stick? Guess I'll have to give it a try considering the alternatives.

Keep looking for the 17th, Clymer's usually pretty good. As MTKawboy suggests, Kaw gaskets are known to be very difficult to remove.

just counted em,17 and a filter bolt.;)id suggest leaving the bolts in each corner in by a few threads while you are beating on that block of wood to give it a little support so it doesnt break off accidentally ,it will also hel limit how hard you can pry on it in case you missed the mystery bolt.

DoubleDub wrote:

The clymer claims there are 17 bolts. I can only find 16. Can anyone out there verify if there are 17 bolts on a '76 900?

Is there something I can leverage to take the thing off without damaging any of the precious aluminium one I verify I have all the bolts out? The engine is still in the frame - I had a brain fart and lost a bolt down the crankcase.

I would try taking a spakle knife and sharpening the front edge and try to tap it in slowly at the edges that are exposed to insertion. Just work your way around.

same tool will help scrape the gasket off.

And if you gouge the aluminum lip getting it off.... that's what the hi-temp black RTV sealer is for. You aren't the first one.

If youre 100% sure that the bolt is in the bottom of the pan Id leave it there. If it isnt you might not be able to get it even with the pan off. Ive personlly never had any luck prying one off, you have to beat it so hard you start worrying if the pan will break in half. They use a krytonite based sealer on them at the factory. Good luck, youll need it ! I did mine with the motor out too so you are really in for a treat.

I have the head and jugs off the bike and I can't find the bolt, so I'm pretty certain it's somewheres below the crank. Won't I see the bottom of the crank if I remove the oil pan? Or is there a seperate compartment between the pan and the crank? I *REALLY* don't want to leave something like this bolt rolling around in the bottom of the crankcase - it scares me.

DoubleDub wrote:

I have the head and jugs off the bike and I can't find the bolt, so I'm pretty certain it's somewheres below the crank. Won't I see the bottom of the crank if I remove the oil pan? Or is there a seperate compartment between the pan and the crank? I *REALLY* don't want to leave something like this bolt rolling around in the bottom of the crankcase - it scares me.

It's not like in a car engine. Looking up from under on mine, the two case halves cover almost all the crank but there are openings directly under the rods so you can see them.

I'll have to see if the Clymer has a photo before I continue (or if anyone else does...?).

If its that far apart, take it out of the frame and turn it upside down, maybe youll get lucky & it will fall out. besides it will be easier to get the pan off that way. Comes out your right sitting on it