TOPIC:

Hi Leon,
You are right about the tail light bracket, I am gonna change that to something with a vertical piece of metal.

The spacers are the standard length from D&G, I just put the piston against the rod and measured the distance between the hydrailic clutch and the D&G plate.
This was about 5 mm and this is wat I cut of the rod.
Now the unit unit is flush with the D&G plate and the ball of the piston is gently pushing against the rod.
After bleeding the line the springs of the clutch keeps the piston at its place (it is much stronger than the spring behind the piston).
My only concern is that it moves for only 2 mm (see pictures) and wonder if that is enough the disengage the clutch.
Thanks for following my build and for your positive input.

Eric

Lovely work Wiers....I think you may have to harden the end of the push rod having cut off that 5mm. I believe they came with both ends hardened from the factory.

Wiers wrote: Hi Leon,
You are right about the tail light bracket, I am gonna change that to something with a vertical piece of metal.

The spacers are the standard length from D&G, I just put the piston against the rod and measured the distance between the hydrailic clutch and the D&G plate.
This was about 5 mm and this is wat I cut of the rod.
Now the unit unit is flush with the D&G plate and the ball of the piston is gently pushing against the rod.
After bleeding the line the springs of the clutch keeps the piston at its place (it is much stronger than the spring behind the piston).
My only concern is that it moves for only 2 mm (see pictures) and wonder if that is enough the disengage the clutch.
Thanks for following my build and for your positive input.

Eric

What Clutch Slave Cylinder are you using?

I do not know from which bike the clutch slave cylinder is.
It came in a box of parts with the bike.
I think it is from a Kawa and have seen it a lot on this forum.

About the rod ends, how can you harden them?

Eric

I don't think that's necessary.
Steve

It isn't necessary to harden the shaft on the pusher. Drag race buddy who is the local god of Kawi engines says the clutch only opens about 80 thousands of an inch when working properly. You may find another bleed after riding a bit may allow a little bit more air to escape, it doesn't take much to soften the action.
Good luck
David

Thanks,
That takes care of one problem.
On to the next....




Throttle cable, Dyna Coils and wiring are all fighting for the same space
And the winner is..

The fuel tank
The fuel tank is hitting my welded braces and does not leave any room in the front for electrical kabels.
When looking under the tank I found this.


It looks that there is an option of welding the rod one point further backward.
Is that for other model tanks??
Not an option for me because if I put it further backwards My seat would not fit anymore.
Only option I have is taking the grinder and start attacking the frame.
And lifting the backend a bit by taping some foam under the tank rubbers.



Also my front brakes started leaking again
Taking the day off tomorrow.

I'd be worried about the tank leaking. Maybe denting it in those places?
Steve

How is it with the original coils? What about fitting stick coils? Plenty of room under the tank then.

Steve,
I was thinking about denting the tank a little, will it not damage the inside?

These coils are part of the Dyna 2000 kit.
I will make a bracket which will turn them inwards so that I have more space for the other cables.
Are you sticking to the old points ignition David?

Eric

I had to position my coils under the mounting brackets, It isn't a problem because you can't see/ notice them (on the Z1R anyway) when the tank is fitted. The only time its a pain is when removing the valve cover.
The other issue I found that when the coils are too close together they can cause a miss now and then.

Wiers wrote: Steve,
I was thinking about denting the tank a little, will it not damage the inside?

These coils are part of the Dyna 2000 kit.
I will make a bracket which will turn them inwards so that I have more space for the other cables.
Are you sticking to the old points ignition David?

Eric

Yup,Im staying with the original gear for now.I might change later but I just cleaned everything up and put it back together. It did work before I took the bike off the road.Fingers crossed.

P.S. I just sent you a PM on a different subject.