TOPIC:

750 R1 - I am forced to use the pods as there is no room for the factory airbox now that I have the zr550 battery tray and electronics crammed in there.
In my limited road testing, It seems to run perfectly so far with the pods. I am using the Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit for the Zephyr zr750 that requires no drilling of the slides (which there is no going back from) But it took a lot of trial and error to get there.
I had previously run pods on my zr550 that also uses the keihin cvk carbs. I had also used a Factory Pro Stage 3 kit specially made for the zr550 and it worked fantastically until I tried to cruise at highway speeds.

Rather than retype it all, here is a excerpt I copy and pasted from the zephyr-zone.com forum which explains my issues and solutions.

"My reasons for switching to pod filters was for many reasons:
1. I was to inexperienced to know better.
2. My airbox boots were hard as a rock. When removing or installing my carbs when I first tried to get it running was a nightmare. I even knocked the bike off the side stand onto myself trying to wrestle the carbs on the boots once.
3. I found the K&N filters on Amazon for a third of the price of new airbox boots.

The first thing I did was purchase a Factory-Pro stage 3 jet kit (negating the savings of the air filters) and installed it according to the directions they listed for pod filters and a stock exhaust. Around town was fantastic. Any speed above 60mph it was unridable.
The issue that people time and again state, is that CV carburetors must not have any positive air pressure going into the intake side. When the carb has air forcefully blown into them rather than the carbs drawing in air at their own “pace”, the vacuum diaphragm controlled slides shoot up and dump to much gas into the engine causing it to bog down. Pod air filters flow to well and allow to much cross wind air into the carbs and at high speeds the air is actually forced into the cabs like you were pointing a leaf blower at them.
My first solution was to wrap my filters with vacuum filters. As described in this thread:
www.zephyr-zone.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1349470533/6#6

Last spring, the vacuum filters did not survive me removing them for cleaning, so I had to come up with a new solution. This time I made baffles to go inside the pod filters themselves to “shelter” the carbs intakes (where the vacuum intake for the slides are) from the onslaught of air coming in. I got the idea from some people using velocity stacks inside of pod filters to redirect the air coming in.
I made the baffles from the cans of the beer I was drinking at the time when I got the idea.
They were incredibly easy to make using only a pair of scissors, rivet gun and a single-hole paper punch. I made the length of the baffle so it starts at the mouth of the filter and seals tightly against the rubber back end of the filter, so the air has to go through the holes and can’t rush in the end of the baffle. I made sure to punch enough holes in the baffle so as not to starve the carbs of air and my unscientific tests I did showed no restriction in flow rate between a baffled and un-baffled filter.
The baffled filters work flawlessly with the Factory-Pro jet kit and It pulls hard from idle to redline and cruises smooth as glass no matter how fast I’m going."








I needed to drink the beer as fast I could so I could use the empty cans to make the baffles, so by the fourth can my craftsmanship was really starting to suffer. (that is the one pictured.) I was doing really unscientific tests with using a vacuum cleaner to suck air through the filter with and without the baffle. When the vacuum stopped struggling and was using the same amount of "effort" to suck air through the baffle as the it did without it, I stopped punching holes in the baffle. I wanted just enough resistance to stop the "cross wind effect" but to not starve the engine of air.
It works, but velocity stacks area more elegant solution to the cross wind issue. But they are way more expensive than a 4-pack of Murphy's Stout.



GPzMOD750 - Gearingcommander.com is what you need to use to figure out what sprockets to use with the 6-speed and see if you will get the numbers you want. That way you can calculate it with the exact rear tire size you are using...etc. It is less typing to load up the gearing for a kz/zr/gpz550 and then change the primary gear ratio to 2.55 and then your tire size and then go from there. You will need to get a new front sprocket at the very minimum, or you will need to convert it to the "keeper" style that the 550 transmission uses. The 17- tooth is the largest 530 sprocket that will fit without having to do away with the chain guard on the output shaft cover.

Daftrusty wrote:
My zr550 also has the rubber isolator engine mounts on front and back, but it still vibrates like crazy. Part of the reason I wanted to lower the high speed rpm's because it would make my hands and feet numb at high speeds.
So far my 750 has nothing like that, and as you mention Nessism, it is remarkably smooth.
But on the newer Zephyr 550 and 750's, and zr-7's they no longer used a lower engine mount in the front, so maybe that has something to do with why they went to rubber mounts? Or not??

Oddly, the old solidly mounted engine KZ550's don't buzz like the rubber mounted engine ZR550's

Thanks DR, I'm familiar with all the different mods made to pods to try make them work, apparently you can buy K&N pods with velocity stacks inbuilt..? Using stacks is definitely a good idea, anything that smoothes out turbulent, incoming air into a laminar flow is highly beneficial. Wasn't there a member here a while back that made stacks that could be used with pods, I remember reading something a few years back about it, way before I became a member here, a member named "Dutch" maybe...? I've seen some pretty interesting compromises for lack of room for air boxes, I've seen a couple where the carb mounted section of the box is retained, the whole rear section removed and a single large {or what ever size will fit} pod used, I plan on doing something similar to this on an old 750 Honda, using a completely gutted airbox with a pod mounted at the rear of the box for filtering, just to gain more volume in the airbox. There's always something to keep the head spinning....

I had read probably the same thread years back of a guy on here who milled his own velocity stacks to go in his pods.
That is exactly what gave me the idea to try something along the same lines.

Daftrusty wrote: I had read probably the same thread years back of a guy on here who milled his own velocity stacks to go in his pods.
That is exactly what gave me the idea to try something along the same lines.

Cool, as long as it works... Have you decided on a color scheme for your 750 yet..?

You got it right. Dutch had Wompy (another member here) at Still Kicking Moto make the stacks. Wompy made a few sets and i have a set i am going to run on my KZ1000. No clue how they actually work yet.

If my super ghetto beer can baffles work, then the velocity stacks have to work.

I am mostly dead set on the old dark navy blue color with the kz1000 mkII gold and white pinstripes. But apparently nobody knows the exact paint formula to match the vintage color.
But now that it is in grey primer, I am almost thinking that it would look good in silver. Silver is my favorite car color, because it looks clean even when it is dirty, and I like how it contrasts with the black on the bike. I am worried that the dark blue paint and black everything else will be just to dark. But I also don't think the factory pinstripes will look good on the silver.
My bike was silver from the factory before the previous owner spray bombed it black, so it might be neat to make it silver again.

When it was new


More of a champagne silver, but you get the idea


As it is now


I don't know if the pinstripes are wonky or if they are the wrong color, but this doesn't look good.

Blue...... We'll get something that works

DoctoRot wrote: You got it right. Dutch had Wompy (another member here) at Still Kicking Moto make the stacks. Wompy made a few sets and i have a set i am going to run on my KZ1000. No clue how they actually work yet.

Thanks for confirming that, stacks work, there's no doubting that....

Rusty, the blue looks awesome on these old bikes, it shouldn't be too hard to get someone to get a close match for you, Black looks good too....



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Thank you guys! You are absolutely right, blue it is.
I need to stop changing my mind about color and focus on getting my exhaust pipe upsweep angle figured out.

Daftrusty wrote: Thank you! You are absolutely right, blue it is.
I need to stop changing my mind about color and focus on getting my exhaust pipe upsweep angle figured out.

Its easy to start doubting your decisions when you hit a speed bump, the trick is not to be impatient and stick to what you really want. The blue will look awesome...!!! {i'm sure i said that somewhere }.....

I remember you posting screen shots from hat site a few pages back now. Thanks.

I've been playing with it a bit. If I go up one tooth on the front (17/38) it will put my 1st gear ratio right between where the stock final ratio was and what I've been running. I could get the same result from 16/36. The gearing to put 1st at roughly stock ratio wouldn't make the 6th much of an advantage at all. Since I would only have to change the front, which is needed anyway I'll start with the 17/38.

One error I found. I pulled up the stock numbers on another tab. They have the stock chain listed as a 530 (0.625). Funny thing is that if you change it to 630 (0.750) without changing the sprockets none of the results change.