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'82 KZ1000 Project 15 Apr 2016 08:17 #721071

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wrenchmonkey wrote: Forgive me for dropping in on this thread but I've very recently become interested in '82 1000 engines ;)

Fuel, Fire, Compression. The three things needed to run an engine.

You confirmed you have spark at all your plugs; right? - Color of spark is bright? - Fire.
Are your HT wires routed correctly?
If they are not, then of course you are getting "fire" but at the wrong cylinder when needed.
If your timing is out, I'd still expect the machine to randomly sputter and try unless it's just WTFO.

Compression can only be assumed but since your valve gap readings are all within Steve's listed range... Compression should be there.
Try covering your hand over a carb while rolling on the starter. Do you feel suction on your hand? That suction helps indicate if that cylinder can develop compression. If your hand sucks in and then blows out. One or more valves is sticking open. No compression.

So, likely not getting fuel as you have asked - the bubble not moving in the fuel line -

Common issue I've heard here - vacuum in the tank. Tank not vented so fuel cannot be drawn from it.
Pop the tank filler for a second.
Couldn't this be simply dirty carb bowls, stuck float valves or clogged carbs?
What about leaking manifold boots?

OK. Stepping way out on a limb here... Desperate times call for desperate measures.
Often I used to do this when trying to assess an engine in a scrap yard.
I'm not saying it's wise or even safe but it did one thing - allowed an engine to run if all else was checked out.
Get a small atomizer bottle (small helps fit into tighter spaces with less fuel needed).
Adjust the atomizer bottle nozzle for fine spray pattern, not a stream.
Spritz it into each carb once.
Try to start the engine.
The atomizer bottle essentially does what the carb is supposed to and gets fuel into the intake.

It's helpful if you have a helper that can roll on the starter while you spritz the fuel into the carbs.
WARNING - i repeat - WARNING:
Keep your hands and bottle free of the carbs intake during first tests in case it backfires!
Shoot the fuel from the side away from direct line.
Do NOT smoke or have any other flame in the area, you are atomizing a highly flammable liquid

This said. I have actually gotten cars to drive out of a junk yards or at least into a position that could be towed from, by using this method.
Scary? Yep. Dicey as hell? Yep. Works in a pinch? Yep.

They call that ether. A can is cheap and should be in every shop for just that purpose, and also for testing manifold boot seals for air leaks. Also if engine fires for even a few seconds, check for a cold exhaust pipe leaving the head, even if you have spark at all the plugs. ...................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!
(2)-1976 KZ900B-LTD's
1-all stock low mileage...
1 modified
1977 KZ1000 (awaiting resurrection!) :)
...and an old school Honda CB750 Chopper is next on my bucket list!

Oh...and a Pocket Rocket lol!!!

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'82 KZ1000 Project 15 Apr 2016 09:26 #721079

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Rockranch wrote: They call that ether. A can is cheap and should be in every shop for just that purpose, and also for testing manifold boot seals for air leaks. Also if engine fires for even a few seconds, check for a cold exhaust pipe leaving the head, even if you have spark at all the plugs. ...................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!


i would rather use monkeys method than ether.

or a gas rag held over the air cleaner opening.

ether has a way of settling down behind the rings in the lands and then when the flame hits it can break the rings/ lands or both.

i won't even keep ether around or use it on any of my own stuff.

wd40 works for checking the seal on the boots.

leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

billybiltit.blogspot.com/

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0

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Last edit: by 531blackbanshee.

'82 KZ1000 Project 15 Apr 2016 10:48 #721088

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lmao whatever
(2)-1976 KZ900B-LTD's
1-all stock low mileage...
1 modified
1977 KZ1000 (awaiting resurrection!) :)
...and an old school Honda CB750 Chopper is next on my bucket list!

Oh...and a Pocket Rocket lol!!!

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'82 KZ1000 Project 15 Apr 2016 10:54 #721090

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Rockranch wrote: lmao whatever

lmao if you like but i've seen it happen. :)
i've rebuilt thousands of industrial engines,and seen the company i work for have to pay a $4500.00 teardown and rebuild bill because the customer (admittedly)used ether for first start up.
and seen the busted pistons myself.


so when that happens to you make sure and post it up so i in turn can lmao at your misfortune,sir.

leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

billybiltit.blogspot.com/

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0

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Last edit: by 531blackbanshee.

'82 KZ1000 Project 15 Apr 2016 10:56 #721091

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You need a manual.
Steve

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'82 KZ1000 Project 18 Apr 2016 20:22 #721682

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Once again I appreciate all the help I am getting. I have been trying to problem solve. So today I decided to take the cams out and was thinking I could possibly switch a few shims back and forth to get the clearances correct. For example if #1 is .002 and #4 is .006 I could change them over and maybe they would balance out to be more in the .002-.004 area...Is this a bad idea?? either way once I took out the cams I noticed that there was no scratches, scores or wear. Things looked really clean and in good condition BUT... there was oil all over the place...Have a look at the pictures and please fill me in if it is normal and if not what my next step is.
Thanks again.
Mark





The tappets seems to be tarnished but not scored.>>

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'82 KZ1000 Project 18 Apr 2016 20:29 #721684

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You will buy ones to replace the tight ones and have the ones you took out to adjust the others.
Steve

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'82 KZ1000 Project 18 Apr 2016 20:30 #721685

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pic



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'82 KZ1000 Project 19 Apr 2016 05:37 #721704

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oil everywhere is normal.

if you can just swap the shims around that is just fine as well.

that was the way i was first taught was to average out all the shims.(before i ever seen a manual)

leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

billybiltit.blogspot.com/

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0

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'82 KZ1000 Project 19 Apr 2016 06:25 #721716

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Looks like mine before I did my valves. The seals were hard and not sealing letting exhaust gasses into the head causing the oil to cook. It would also smoke at start up and foul plugs every 2-400 miles.
Steve



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'82 KZ1000 Project 19 Apr 2016 06:45 #721724

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Shims can be reused. Depends on what sizes you need. That's one of the many things Marshall Farr and Bob Oertle taught me growing up in Tulsa.
(2)-1976 KZ900B-LTD's
1-all stock low mileage...
1 modified
1977 KZ1000 (awaiting resurrection!) :)
...and an old school Honda CB750 Chopper is next on my bucket list!

Oh...and a Pocket Rocket lol!!!

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'82 KZ1000 Project 19 Apr 2016 07:36 #721740

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Steve,
When you say "did your valves" do you mean replace the valve seals? Do I replace all of them or just the exhaust? I do have a manual and shows the "proper tools" to take the valves out. Do you have a better or simpler DIY way to take all the valves and valve seals out? Also when I took the valve cover off the gasket looked new. Can I put it back on if it looks fine or thats a BIG NO?
Thanks again.

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