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Well it helps when u unscrew the tops. Cleaned and new seals in place. Oil in tomorrow. More to come, R

Okay, so I have diassembled the bike. New fork seals and oil (I had to accomplish something ). There is a lot of odd PO BS. Theaded SAE rod for front upper engine mount, RTV on the rotor cover (all of em probably), broken rear fender mounts with bigger bolts jammed in, broken starter bolt (starter mounted and unabe to removed, it goes on and on. Question - The starter wascranking fine, can it stay in there with one bolt? Thank goodness for kickstarter. Otherwise things came apart as expected. It was just easier to pull the rear unit when disconnecting the driver shaft. WIthout unit removal it kept wanting to hookup when the engine was pulling out. A few pics.

Hello all, I moved further into disassembly tonight. Head is off and block removed. With the broken starter bolt there is no way to split the cases without fixing that (two case bolt under the starter. Not sure a split is needed anyway. It looks clean in there and no adverse rod play or signs of wear that I can see. Pistons and rings look fine, the gap measures out and they are in spec. There is some cylinder bore scoring but not bad, I think a rehone will be fine. The guide rollers look somewhat worn but not sure if they need to be replaced. Probably should while there. All the rubber dampers were hard as porcelain. I cannot get the clutch cover off for the life of me, There is no decent place to tap and I have a suction cup and slide hammer on it with nor results. Any ideas? The clutch was fine and it ran thru all gears so maybe I will just button up. Anyway lots to go. Things will slow down some as I have some travelling ahead for both pleasure and business. Some pics.

You should take the starter out and fix the bolt. Replace the rollers with Liska's and the rubber ones. Z1E has them. You won't regret it.
Steve

Any thoughts on how to get the starter out? The bolt that is sheared off is still in the starter body. The starter doesn't budge and can't be removed. R

It's just the head that's sheared off?
Steve

I put a gauge in the hole and compared on the other bolt. It would seem that abut 6mm of thread is above the mating surface in the body of the starter. It tried gentle persuasion but no luck. I did not want to bugger up the thru hole gear end. i suppose I could take the case to a machine shop, but it's freaking heavy with the tranny and crank still in Any ideas on how to get the dang clutch cover off? All bolts are out and it's stuck as a MFKR. I tried a slide hammer with suction cup. Getting good force before it slides off from 5-10 bangs. R

So the bolt is sheared 6mm above the case. I'd buy a good drill bit that fits the hole and drill until I could remove the starter. You should be able to leave a little of the threads showing so you can grab the bolt with vice grips and turn it. I fi you go flush then you'll have to drill and extract the bolt later. One good thing about doing it this way, you'll have the bolt cut centered. Rather than drilling and useing a extractor (they often break), I will drill the bolt body leaving the threads. Then I will "chase" out the threads with a tap. If I mung it up I will install a Heli Coil.
The clutch cover on the right hand side right? Might have been put on there with Permatex. I'd bop around the edges with a rubber mallet or lead hammer.If that don't work I've been known to use a wide carpenter's wood chisel to split the gasket going around little by little until it's loose. All the bolts are out right?
Steve

Well at least the hole in question has good access. It's not the one close to the block. U r right it should come out. Once out of it's a pain I can take the top case to the machine shop if it give me trouble. Much lighter. Don't want to mung up the mating surfaces on either the case is the cover. R

Good news, I got the starter out. Bad news, the drill walker and bit the case and then I busted the extractor even with hand pressure. What a bitch with the clutch hub nut. I am not sure if it was improperly staked or just on there so long is was extra stuck. Any it's off. Cannot free the rotor. I have the puller but it is a hollow one and I did not want to bugger it up. I would like to get it off as while I am this deep. To do engine seals it's gotta come off. After I split the cases I can take the top case to a machine shop for extraction. I may try some drilling of my own, but it's delicate. Pics later R

Well, a bit of a set back. I was making progress on the bolt drilling and when I put in an extractor it broke the thread bung. not through but now definitely need the machine shop. I suppose they can weld on a 6mm bung in its place. That's my guess anyway. Cases are split, all guts are sorted and now I can clean, polish ans paint cases. Going on vacation a while so may not be much progress the next few week. Will be ordering all the engine seals, gaskets, orings, etc. May get to valve lapping. I need four shims to put all my clearances at .12 - .13, clutch nut, bolt cleaning and much more. Once I clean the frame I will know if it needs paint or not. Wow this is fun !!! R

That's why I don't like extractors especially on small bolts. I have a set of reverse drill bits. I've busted a few easy outs in my day. PITA.
Steve