TOPIC:

Tyrell Corp could help you out I bet........ Nessium suggesting shimming up the needle a little too..... would need a small washer (but don't know exact size) from the hardware store......... am thinking Tyrell has commented on this before. Jetsrus or Z1 ent are good places for jets..... maybe someone else could get em a little cheaper but you want oem.

KZB2 650 wrote: Tyrell Corp could help you out I bet........ Nessium suggesting shimming up the needle a little too..... would need a small washer (but don't know exact size) from the hardware store......... am thinking Tyrell has commented on this before. Jetsrus or Z1 ent are good places for jets..... maybe someone else could get em a little cheaper but you want oem.

Thanks KZB, hoping someone(s) will chime in with a bit more info soon. Just returned to work from my lunch break but was able to pop the slide cover off and pull the slide to look at the needle. There are no additional grooves cut into my needle for the c-clips, and the orange plastic washer sits on TOP of the c-clip on the needle. I am sure this is simple but I am not sure where I would put a washer/shim to shim it upon this one, I don't see how I could? I'm sure that this is so frustrating to me and confusing since it is my first ever foray into carbs and that likely this is a mental block about it seeming like climbing a mountain and so difficult. Intellectually I know that is not the case but still seems to be getting to me


Here are a few pics....

As one other member I was chatting with pointed out... there is nearly NO taper on these things which not only surprises me but baffles me

Please help and advise

Brett

Well the petcock Kit arrived from Murphs today and I was able to get some time with the help of the Mrs. Irish and get the tank off and drained and rebuild the petcock to stab the tank back on and put the fuel back! Gotta say this kit is a really really nice piece and I was thoroughly impressed, would highly recommend! Took me about 90-120 min with me dicking around about half the time as well as helping the Missus for her CNA classes she started taking. Overall went great and so far works perfectly

P.S. It really is way cool to have a wife that not only is supportive but will let me take apart, clean and rebuild a petcock in the living room while she is hanging out and studying

Brett

Put some small washers under the needle clip and then drop the needle in place. What I don't know is if that plastic cap that goes down over top of the needle in the slide has room for the needle to stick up. Assuming yes, I'd start by raising the needle 1 mm and then go from there.

Thanks Ed I will give that a shot and see where hat takes me. Any thoughts on what main jet number I should step up to?

Thanks again,
Brett

Irish-Kawi wrote: Thanks Ed I will give that a shot and see where hat takes me. Any thoughts on what main jet number I should step up to?

Thanks again,
Brett

Hi Brett,
Since the bike is basically stock in terms of exhaust and airbox (other than K&N) the stock main jet should be fine. You can try moving one step richer on the main just to be safe though.

One caveat to throw out there is that there seems to be mass brain damage regarding the public and carbs. 9/10 guys seem to think that cleaning the carbs means throwing away the stock jets and replacing them with "carb kits". Problem is that these carb kits are all full of inferior aftermarket parts and many times they don't have the proper specs for the carbs you are working on. I'd do a very careful inventory of your existing jets and compare them to stock. Hopefully some monkey didn't jack things up and put you behind the eightball.

Hi Ed,

Been sick past two days so apologies on reply time. Thanks for the input and really appreciate it. I'm 99.9% sure that all parts are genuine Kawi as I had another set of stock carbs to compare to and they are identical. All the new parts I put in when rebuilding were genuine Kawi and not a rebuild kit from third party.

Will try shimming with 1mm increments each time I really appreciate time spent helping me on this.

To go "one up" on the mains is it really just as straight forward as going up +1 number on the main jet number or is it not that simple? My main jets are #110's, so one up is #111's correct?

Thanks,
Brett

Hey Ed,

Disregard my last question, did a bit more digging and looking at Z1Eand I see the next size up is #112.5 and also found the shims listed as well. Can order all of them and less than $11 before shipping so not bad at all.

Thanks,
Brett

Well submitted an order from Z1Enterprises, 4 #112.5 Main jets and a 12 pk of Mikuni specific shims that are .5mm thick each. 2 shims is the equivalent of 1 notch on the adjustable needles (which mine are not), so when they arrive will put in 2 shims to start on each needle and then test her out after swapping the main jets.

Hope this fixes it and really sounds like it should, thanks again for everyone who was helping out!


Thanks,
Brett

So now a few days later now after the petcock install I went out to check for any leaks, everything was bone dry and sealed up tight as a drum! I was still concerned about fuel somehow leaking or moving past (maybe even something in the carbs stuck open filling the cylinders????? ) so put the choke on moved the new sexy billet lever to on and barely even bumped the starter and it already lit and fired up immediately! With the old petcock that never happened, if it sat for even a day it would fill the cylinders and create a hydrolock situation that made it so that I had to pump the gas out before I could get it to run. So can confirm that the leak and petcock issue is now 100% FIXED!!!!

Now I need to swap the oil and filter since it is contaminated with fuel and don't want to run that oil that is contaminated.

Brett

Well, I wasn't 100% pleased with my mock up that I did for my custom rear fender eliminator out of manila folder. So I went back to the drawing board and realized that I really did need to have the original stock plastic rear fender in my hands to measure, reference and use for mock ups etc. Sooooo back out to the back porch to strip the rear off if it again but this time found a way to disconnect all the wires so that I could get the part in my hands and bring up to my workshop upstairs (my "office" aka the master bedroom LMAO ) and spent roughly 6hrs over the past few days to build an entire new mock up and fit, cut, measure and repeat etc. Man that was tedious BUT when it was all done it was one helluva final product! This time I decided to not use manila folder material but rather went to Hobby Lobby and for $9 picked up a giant sheet of matting used for picture framing that is nearly the same exact thickness of the aluminum I am going to use. Built the mock up of the matting material and then actually was able to physically mount it to the bike and test it out..... it looks SEXY!!!!!!

TADA!!!!!!

So here are the picks of the finished product all ready to tear apart and then mail off to have it constructed and welded together then shipped back to me! Going to have to break it up into a few posts since there are a lot of pictures though, be warned

BTW the little "triangles" that you can see through in the corners will not be left that way, it will be welded up with aluminum plate as well so there are no holes or gaps, when it is done it is nearly a complete replica of the original just trimmed and cut to not show at all under the bike anymore.

Brett