TOPIC:

missionkz wrote: Now the question is, why was it kreemed in the first place?
I think, nobody does that unless there was an "issue".

No leaks and now the tank is clean. I think it was rusty and the PO 30 years ago figured it was a good way to seal out the rust. I'm actually impressed at the condition of the tank. no rust at all on the seams. I just rubbed it out with marine grade polishing compound, followed by stuff called finesse polish. then some heavy past wax and its like new.

650ed wrote: If the inside of the tank is not already rusted it will not rust as long as you keep fuel in it. Ed

No rust now. But I wont be putting it back on the bike till I get the rear MC repaired and the petcock finished. Will the WD-40 coating keep it till I can get fuel in it and back on the tank

Wanted to update all my fans... LOL. Seriously it been a long journey but it almost there. Tank is done, Acetone cleaned out the Kreem. Apple Cider Viniger took all the rust. Carbs are done thanks to Jim at Redline Cycle, and on the bench waiting. All sheet metal parts and frame have had rust removed and painted. This is not a concourse restore, its more just to make it a solid daily driver. The question now is the drive chain, I know I bought an upgraded one but the was 25 years ago and I don't remember make or type. I need to know how to clean it and maintain it. Is there I different process to clean standard and o-ring type. Please see pics and if anyone can shed some light on type and how to clean and maintain I'd greatly appreciate the input.

Sorry pic didn't post.... I'll keep trying

I lube my chain with Maxima Chain Wax, and that's also what I use to clean it. I just spray it liberally with the chain wax and then wipe off all the excess with paper towels. I have an o-ring chain. Ed

Mikaw wrote:

Attachment Chain1.JPG not found

Difficult to tell from the lateral view, but looks like a non-o'ring chain.







Z1 was first produced with a non-o'ring chain and a separate oil supply tank with an owner-regulated pump to control continuous lubrication of the drive chain. It functioned okay, but was messy. And Kawasaki soon converted to an o'ring chain absent the on-board chain lubrication system.

Properly lubing a non-o'ring chain will likely prove to be extremely messy.

The only reason I can think of for using the non-o'ring version is for racing application, especially drag racing, in order to remove the very slight resistance imparted by the o'rings.

Good Fortune!

However, if it's a Tsubaki brand drive chain, Tsubaki HT series

www.ustsubaki.com/pdf/L10940_full_gen_cat.pdf

see pages A-36 and A-38

seems to indicate being an o'ring chain.

Being 25 years old could make a difference in design, strength, manufacturers' stamp on the links, whatever, as top brands are continuously improving their chains.

Good Fortune!

If the chain on-hand is an o'ring chain, I would use it.

If a non-o'ring chain, I wouldn't use it because of the more extensive and messy maintenance requirements.

On the other hand, those going for the "rat-look" often prefer the messiest and nastiest appearance possible.

Good Fortune!

It's an ES630HT chain. Not an oring chain. Might as well use it til it's worn out. Just using a rag and Kerosene or WD40 wiping off the chain is about all you can do to clean, then apply lube. I still have my reservations about motorcycle chain lube after some bad experiences. The only brand I ever used that worked was BG. Hard to find. If not using the BG, I would just lube with regular motor oil.