TOPIC:

A new set of copper washers have been ordered. Thanks guys! Also, with all your input thus far, I am looking more seriously at rejecting while I'm at it. Any kit recommendations? I'm not finding much 440 wise. Some are saying to put 90-92 main jets in compared to the 87-88's that are in it presently but this is getting beyond my current knowledge base.

So I got ahold of Sigma6 jet kits and they did in fact have knowledge of rejecting kz440's before. The catch with ordering thier kit is you get thier support until you are happy with the tuning. We will see. It wasn't running bad before just slow and had the tick. Hoping this puts a little spring in the step yknow .


Last night I finished the electrical including the kill switch. I have thrown around ideas for creatively hiding the switch but hasn't settled so I left extra wiring bundled up incase I choose to move it. Just trying to find my Dremel bit box and I'll tackle the carbs and exhaust seals later today. When I played the vid I posted earlier at the old motorcycle shop, they told me it was probably the cam chain slack as they are known for that noise. My only problem is that I still don't know what those little aluminum shavings in my oil are from and I'm fearing rod knock. I'll test for piston play later before doing anything else. That would be a complete tear down of the engine and blowing my budget for sure... Might even need a new engine? Ill cross that bridge later depending on what I find. Haven't reset the auto tensioner yet though. I feel like that should be simple? What doesn't seem simple is new bearings/ shims for the piston rods as I feel like you have to replace the driveshaft at the same time. I could be miles off on this one. This is what is killing this project at the moment. But it's not dead yet.

Hey forum,

Has anyone had any luck with switching out the auto tensioners for manual tensioners? I'm going to take a peek at mine later this eve. I know some things are just taking a long time. But I also know that it is really close. I will take some measurements while at it as I am curious if an APE manual tensioner like what a number of new ninja owners use would work. I have looked up spring replacements on fleabay but was befuddled at the prices. I have heard that the auto tensioners have history...

No tensioner leads yet unfortunately. Have spent my sick day at home between resting up just surfing on the ideas I mentioned and more. Popped out the carbs to begin the 6sigma tuning upgrade. There are now holes in the right side slide diaphragm. I think I used CRC carb cleaner when I first took it apart to clean after I purchased it. The rubber bits where all out bug I'm wondering f I need to switch cleaner because something ate the rubber components on the right side. I just don't get why it only really happened on the one side! For those who are still popping by this story of my bike, would that have any running sound effect like the vid I posted a few weeks ago? Once done, the Jets will be upgraded for shorter exhaust, low back pressure, pod filters and the springs will lose one round. The slide holes will be slightly (and I mean ever so much) expanded at the same time as the springs clipped for better throttle response above 2000rpm. If this all works as I am envisioning, this is going to be a pretty decent upgrade! Here's the catch though, how do you get out seized jet needle screw caps? The PO or whoever did this didn't understand "lightly seat". Or it just turned in over time. Weirdly, and I know I don't have tons of carb experience but the jet needles had like a 1/64 of play. Is that right? After shimming the one with the washers, it set nice and tight as I'd expect it to. I'm learning but these are the bike things on my mind. Well, some .

Big update

Alright, that clip that I posted a while back asking for help diagnosing? Well, it's rod knock... The left journal bearing is rock solid. The right is a different story. There is zero bearing. Now, you guys might be able to help me out in figuring this out but my word how does this happen? Because o don't want to miss out on an entire riding season for the third time, I have called on the old motorcycle shop. In the meantime, I'm confident I can take an engine apart. It's the lining up timing and torquing that I'm less confident. Found a '78 400 engine with a solid crankshaft and connecting rods to swap into my '82 440.



I finally fully disassembled the engine late last night and removed the crankshaft.

Little by little. Oh and the horn still freeking goes off at turning the key! This after isolating the housing with rubber and chasing the wires for loose connections. With the crankshaft though, I do have bigger issues at hand.

Ouch!

So the engine has been running con-rod to crank with no bearing? Yikes!

I always thought of that engine as being rather bullet proof as I never had any kind of problem with mine beyond normal wear 'n tear parts needing replaced.

Wrenchmonkey,

I had been under the impression myself that these engines are nearly bulletproof! Really, the work I've done shows a lack of maintenance and wear over the past 30 years. The bike has character. But I've got a few pics for you because there was a surprise yesterday with the shifting drum.


If you look at the top of the crankshaft, you can visibly see the wear. There was no journal bearing. It's like it vaporized!


Here's the shifting drum. I have no idea how this is cracked and I'll be honest, I'm not fully understanding what that end and the rods do in its normal operation.

So...
I have found another crank with bearings and rods on eebbaayy as well as a shifting drum with forks.
I did take apart a '79 400 engine with it in mind to use the crank and rods but discovered that it doesn't fit! Just enough was changed between the years. I couldn't quite see that difference in my manual so I tried it. Definitely learned a lot in the process. That little 400 engine may have a story of its own in the future.

Just got new slide skirts for the carbs in from England. My plastidip patches weren't bad but I used the liquid electrical tape to strengthen and thicken the patches. I'm figuring that 8 patches on one slide skirt was a bit too much because there just wasn't enough movement in the skirt when it set up. I didn't try the gorilla glue trick yet but I may keep the old skirts and try a few patches on them once the new ones are in just for shiggles.

What's really got me curious right now is the 6sigma carb tune package once the engine is running. Definitely looking forward to doing a running update .

The cogs are for the shifting forks to grab onto and turn.
Steve