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McMaster sells the dead soft 1100 series aluminum sheets, I use the .040 thick 2" x 24" stock and I punch the hole with my Roper - Whitny No.5 hand punch.

got a little photo happy, but im so pleased with how it turned out, and even more pleased I don't have to polish anymore. My custom bolts/spacers came in for the close tolerance motor mounts as well.

Clean, the top rear mount plates are good. If people take the time to look, it's good to give them nice details to find.

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leon

Doc, man did your engine clean up nice!! I love how you polished up a few fins. Nice nice nice. Any tips on getting your covers that polished?

Well if you know someone with a stand alone buffer that's the way to go. If not I would start at 400 grit with some soapy water (depending how bad your cases are you might want to start at 320 or 150) and move up ,600, 800,1000,1500, then get a small buffing wheel for a drill and some rouge. The key is to not move up to the next grit unless you have all the scratches of the previous grit sanded out. Also having the covers removed makes it a lot easier.

I am dying to get back to work on this bike. I have been practicing machining and welding stainless, and all i wan to do now is fab a exhaust for this bike.

cant wait to see what you come up with.

leon

I never seem to have any free time to work on the bikes these days. I did make a little progress this week and started assembling everything. The motor is in the frame, the new motor mount bolts are super snug and made getting the engine in there a challenge. I still need to make the mount plates.

I put new bearings in the swingarm, added a grease fitting, and I started the chain slider. After a couple failed attempts I got a sheet of Delrin to melt over a piece of the tube I capped the swingarm with. It ended up being a bit thinner than i would have liked but it turned out pretty nice. I need to mount it to the arm next. Should I rivet it or drill and tap for some counter sunk screws?

if you can keep countersunk (into the delrin)button head screws out of the direct chain line so they don't get beat up.i would go that route.otherwise i would just countersink the delrin and pop rivet it on and just plan on drilling em out anytime it needed removed or replaced.

hth,

leon

Very nice.
Steve

Its a ROLLER.
Also got the body work in sealer.
I ended up counter sinking some 3mm allen screws for the chain slider. I sunk them below the plastic height so hopefully they'll be protected a little bit. The more i thought about it and it seemed like rivets would be easily ground down because the sit above the surface.

Much to my chagrin the new wheel is 3 lbs heavier than the stock wheel and tire - which was bald enough that the new wheel probably is more like only 2 lbs heavier than the stock. Its a push on overall weight though because the swing arm made up the difference. The geometry is a little more aggressive than i would like as well.I didn't account for how much height the mount on the swingarm would add to the "shock to axle" length. With both these things happening it seems like the perfect excuse to swap for something like a aluminim 17" rim with a 130/70/17 tire and a stainless spoke kit.

I pulled the dual disk setup off my roached KZ650 that some asshole torched a couple months ago. The fire burnt the MC but everything else was untouched. Its funny, This dual setup was on my first KZ1000, that i then put on my second KZ1000, then on my kz650, and now its going on this bike. At least a little bit of a phoenix will rise from those ashes.