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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 30 Oct 2015 08:01 #696533

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Are the studs metric? The link shows all inch thread.....
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado

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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 01 Nov 2015 09:20 #696728

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Was suppose to get the bearings on Friday. Saw that it was "out for delivery" woohoo!! Well...I'm still bearingless so checked the tracking number...dafuq..Bell Gardens!?? You fucking kidding me USPS?!! The black hole of post offices!?..smh..null strikes again. How does the package go from "out for delivery" to 150 miles away?? No sig required or any special hand gestures? Why couldn't my other package go through this drama?.


Ed
Cheap labor isn't skilled, skilled labor isn't cheap.
1980 KZ440a. I went green.
If you yourself are building an older bike and can see it through till you're riding it, that's proof you have patience.

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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 02 Nov 2015 12:01 #696907

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missionkz wrote: Are the studs metric? The link shows all inch thread.....


huh, its says metric in the listing title but it sure says inch threads in the description. look around you'll find a metric set.

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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 22 Nov 2015 11:52 #699956

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Thought I'd have forgotten you guys huh? :P jk. Last weds. I had began a hefty and informative reply here with lots of pics, when I was finally finished I hit submit but my browser decided that it wanted to have a problem and all of the post was gone. . .smh. cookies were of no help. I gave up immediately out of frustration after that and moved on.
..Ahhhhh life..wonderful game. Anyways another attempt for an update and crappy phone pics are in order. It'll be pics with captions this time..lol
Motor torn down..gonna sandblast it.Tthe case was completely empty mechanically, just wanted to keep most of the media out as well as protect bearing surfaces more.

Stator side..

I opted not to pull the studs because, 1..my stud pullers were too small or big. 2..didn't wanna gall up the studs with visegrips. 3..couldn't find a new set. But case is blasted the best I could in my cabinet.


Stator side again..sand blasted


I should've taken A LOT more pics! But my hands were either oily or not electronic device sanitary safe 80% of the time. Had my buddy polish out the crank journals. definitely did a better job considering they have the tooling for it. no pic of though :( The combustion chambers..MAN there was a shit ton of carbon build up, as well as on top of both pistons. Sandblasted the bottom of the head with valves installed still so the seats wouldn't get blasted. I used my lathe to wire brush and polish each valve evenly. Wire brushed top of pistons. Speaking of,mi can't think of the word but my tops weren't smooth at all like I'm used to seeing in car engines, it was divoted (like detonation) but it was the entire surface except along the edge, it looked mechanically equal(if that makes any sense?lol) I couldn't find a pic of a new one for comparison, and I didn't want to polish it smooth. So in they went after a thorough cleaning. I used oil and assembly lube profusely. blew out all the oil holes and even pulled the 3 hex heads on the bottom case. I read the manual over and over along with the parts in front of me according to the section I was in so I'll understand and not get confused. More so in the counter weights and timing chain section...
Since it was all out and apart..out came the rattle cans..I used the fancy engine paint the has "with ceramic" on the label. Then sanded the edges..Pretty?..lol.


Gave the head some TLC before the valves and paint went on.


Motor assembled and ready to go back home.


since the motor was out and looking nice and shiney, couldn't think of putting back into the dull frame..


Well...coming together. lmao..I sat the motor on it's side in my welding chair and dropped the frame on. I reassembled most of the bike while it was on my chair. no pic though. But here's what else my tranny jack does in it's off time. Absolute help when fabbing turbo manifolds under the car..


Thinking ahead, I moved the side stand spring to the backside of it's mount to give me more foot clearance for shifting, but didnt notice the kickstand shape wasn't gonna allow it. So had to make a new one :)


Trying to get the angle and foot rotation just right..


coming along nicely..


So I should've taken pics when doing the header/exhaust. At this point I wanted to get the bike back together is I can ride. Did a 2-1 with a 18" rolled edge slash cut exhaust tip i normally use for 944t exhaust laying in my scrap stainless bin. Oh boy...did not like the sound of it at all!! It had an awful "tinny" sound when revving. That's only acceptable in honda civics :P Loli'd it with different sizes, no go. So made the insides from near scratch. Took a lot of thinking, measuring, cutting, tacking and looking (cause I wanted it to look nice too of course) but DAMN!! sounds fucking fantastic..to me at least.
Looks the part too...


Here's the inside..might remember it from an earlier pic I posted. The baffling from a Harley pipe.


Side shot with the bike complete..


Don't mind the tail light..I broke the plastic lens on the old one and needed a brake light like now..Also had to redo the seat and tail. Before they had an overhang that would cover the frame. Didn't wanna cover that up now do we? The tail is still work in progress. What a journey..lol

ed

:EDIT: I've gotta retake the header and exhaust photos. Browser keeps timing out or just having technical issues. Also, apparently on my way home after dickin around with it for a wasteful amount of hours, my brake/license plate light fell off on the freeway..SMFH!?.oh my plate was attached and went along with that trip. I just can't get a break? tried to go hunting on the freeway but it's too dark out and too many cars oddly for a Sunday? So that adventure will recommence in the am when the sun comes up.
Cheap labor isn't skilled, skilled labor isn't cheap.
1980 KZ440a. I went green.
If you yourself are building an older bike and can see it through till you're riding it, that's proof you have patience.

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Last edit: by I_Tig_in_piece. Reason: missing pics..

My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 23 Nov 2015 14:47 #700173

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Nice work!

B)
Rob
CANADA

Need a key for your Kawasaki? PM me

1978 KZ650 C2, 130K kms, Delkevic ex, EI, CVK32, PMC easy clutch, ATK fork brace, steering damper, braced swingarm, 18" Z1R front wheel.
2000 ZRX1100
2011 Ninja 250R
2005 z750s

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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 24 Nov 2015 08:27 #700303

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header and exhaust pic update..

head pipes...


exhaust..


might remember this part. it's the inside baffling I used from a Harley exhaust I had on hand..


now one thing I failed to mention in my last update is that the motor vibrates like CCRRAAAZZYY progressively as the rpms go up. Like to the point that I my vision is blurred when riding. Other than that, the motor sounds much much better, starts right up with the choke and stays running after turning the choke off 10secs later. No leaks of any sort. Being my first motorcycle engine tear down, I give myself a pat on the back then a punch in the gut cause I think the motors gotta come back out so I can recheck the balance counterweights. It almost looks like I can split the case while in the frame still but don't wanna run into any headaches during. So guess what I'll be doing for thanksgiving?! :cheer: and I'm ok with it long as the problem can be alleviated. Any tips goes a long way :P thanks in advance..


ed
Cheap labor isn't skilled, skilled labor isn't cheap.
1980 KZ440a. I went green.
If you yourself are building an older bike and can see it through till you're riding it, that's proof you have patience.
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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 24 Nov 2015 17:16 #700400

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I_Tig_in_piece wrote: so I can recheck the balance counterweights.


ed

bingo!
2002 ZRX1200R
81 GPz1100
79 KZ1000st daily ride
79 KZ1000mk2 prodject
78 KZ650sr
78 KZ650b
81 KZ750e
80 KZ750ltd
77 KZ400/440 cafe project
76 KZ400/440 Fuel Injected

www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=39120.0


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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 25 Nov 2015 19:22 #700569

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nice exhaust! im gearing up to make a stainless 2 into 2 for my 750twin. What settings are you using on your tig? amps? gas? do you purge? any tips for the process of cutting and fixturing pieces to be welded? i have been practicing on stainless and can get some nice beads but generally running a little too hot.

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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 13 Dec 2015 16:19 #703033

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Man I hate being busy and have nothing to show for it except grey hair? Sorry for the late update..omg!
I literally didn't get to pulling the motor out and checking the counterweights till the sunday after Turkey day. I got out to my garage around 11 in the morn to start the tear down but It also didn't help when I turned the tv on in my garage, there was a street outlaws marathon playing. Finally get into it and I have to assume the vibration from the motor was so violent that several bolts I know for sure i tightened, were not so tight anymore, so after splitting the case I went over all the bolts to make sure they're not gonna cause a problem later. As suspected the counterweights were 180 out exact. The main bearings still looked exactly how they did when I had the motor completely torn down. So all said and done, fired her up and....ahhhh just beautiful. Idled nice and the bike didn't move while on the kickstand. Oh and this was at 930pm now. Too tired to go for a test ride and still had to clean up my mess a bit plus I was cold too!

Ride to work in he morn, and the bike runs fucking beautiful!!! The exhaust sounds great at part throttle, between shifts, full throttle and down shifting. When you twist the throttle, the revs follow as they should, no flat spot or hiccup. Rides fantastic the whole week, Friday had rain in the forecast. I was ok with that, wasn't scared of getting a little wet except that someone forgot to mention a FREAK downpour is imminent? about 4 miles into my way to work was dry, then I could see the haze of rain in the near distance. Finally got under it and I swear it was hailing!? I never got so wet in less than a mile, I was dryer during a 3 mile ride in rain on an LA freeway heading to Laguna seca many years ago. The rain came down so hard that it made its way into my carbs. SMH..so that's what I'm fixing at this very moment..

DoctoRot wrote: nice exhaust! im gearing up to make a stainless 2 into 2 for my 750twin. What settings are you using on your tig? amps? gas? do you purge? any tips for the process of cutting and fixturing pieces to be welded? i have been practicing on stainless and can get some nice beads but generally running a little too hot.


Doc, sorry so late, my settings are as followed using a Thermal Arc 185.
Amps start 20 max 90
Not sure if your welder has a pulse setting? (it's new to me also being that this welder is new/used to replace my old maxstar 140, so I'd probably end up giving you shit settings for that atm :whistle:)
100% argon with the reg set to about 12cfh.
I build off of too many different jigs to be able to not slice, crush, pinch, squish or tangle any hoses then finish fabbing anything in a timely manner with the worry of babying the hoses to back purge any welding. So instead I use solar flux type B for all the 304 stainless. Id really only back purge 321 ss and Ti.
Best tips to get ready to weld would be,
1. keep your amps low. Set your machines max to 55 maybe lower. You'll have better control of your puddle, less chance of burning and stil have sufficient penetration. Adjust your "puddle push" accordingly with the amount of amps you're using to keep the beads consistent with each other. Hold the torch in a way that is the most comfortable to you (as you get more practice, you'll figure out your optimum grip thatll also allow you to follow a line as long as possible without feeling like your arm is getting tangled)
I use to have to hold my breathe just before welding so my hand sold be as steady as I can get it. now a days, I have conversations with people behind me or on my Bluetooth.

As far as prep goes...
Make sure your material(stainless you're gonna weld) is clean. Wipe away all the oil and dust before welding.
cut your pipes however you like, before a weld though, square up the cut on a belt sander, then deburr the inside and outside with a round file or grinding bit on a Dremel or air grinder. The inside edges of two pipes to be welded together is where you'd wanna apply that solar flux I mentioned above.
when cutting in the radius of a U-bend, one side will be out of round, just squish the widest part in a vice the best you can before sanding and welding so the joints are uniformed to each other. When judging how much to cut, add extra! just like they say for wood except it starts getting tricky when those cuts are from a Ubend.
hold the bend up to a straight you have and aim it towards the direction you need, then make a few sharpie marks across both pipes so you'll have a rough idea. Get your torch ready, hold the bend up again with the marks and zap a few spots opposite of eachother to hold it I place so you can move onto the next piece.
Hope this helps you out.

Any more questions in regards to tig welding, I'll be more than happy to answer!!


ed
Cheap labor isn't skilled, skilled labor isn't cheap.
1980 KZ440a. I went green.
If you yourself are building an older bike and can see it through till you're riding it, that's proof you have patience.
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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 04 Jan 2016 21:58 #705651

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Wholly crap?! I let my thread sit all the way to page 3 :ohmy:
Just wanted to give everyone an update of how the KZs doin. Few weeks ago had a run in with Mother Nature dumping a record amount of rain on my way to work that ended with water making it's way into the fuel line. A good samaritan gave me a flat head so I could drain the floats to try and make it to the shop, but just draining the floats wasn't gonna be enough as I found out later after getting my bike back to the shop. Long story short, I've gotta get a new tank cap seal or service my cap cause it isn't air tight. Bikes been great after draining all the old gas and water. Filled it back up with 91 and added a half gal. of 110. No change in how the bike ran from what I can tell, but smells nice :) so might do a half/half.
Lately my front brake has been (or hasn't been actually) releasing 100%, more like 96% (if that makes any sense) resulting in some rubbage during rides. I'll have to get into the caliper again to relube the slides and rubber boots. I'm itching to get a front wheel that has dual rotors. I'm guessing the 650csr should be the ticket right?
Other than the rain problem and brake, I haven't had any other issues what so ever bike wise. As for me, my riding gear (minus my jacket) isn't up to cold riding on the freeway. Just got my gauntlets and waterproof riding boots in today from UPS so get to put those to the test to and from work tomorrow. I'll get some update pics posted as well here in the next few days. I still need to send my phone into apple to get the cam fixed.


ed
Cheap labor isn't skilled, skilled labor isn't cheap.
1980 KZ440a. I went green.
If you yourself are building an older bike and can see it through till you're riding it, that's proof you have patience.

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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 04 Jan 2016 23:29 #705654

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Good to here you got it running again. thank you for the pointers on welding stainless. I somehow missed your last post until now. I have a couple more questions about building a header if you don't mind. Do you make your own slip fits? Im thinking about making a 2>1 now and need to make a collector, any tips? Do you ever use stainless steel wool for the baffle? thanks.
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My first 440 "cafè'ish" build. 10 Jan 2016 15:44 #706212

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DoctoRot wrote: Good to here you got it running again. thank you for the pointers on welding stainless. I somehow missed your last post until now. I have a couple more questions about building a header if you don't mind. Do you make your own slip fits? Im thinking about making a 2>1 now and need to make a collector, any tips? Do you ever use stainless steel wool for the baffle? thanks.


No worries doc. I do make my own slips 90% of the time except when I need a dual slip application for a few products my shop produces! then I call burns stainless. I've got various diameter slugs I turned on the lathe in relation to the slip. Wish I could make a slip on a leg of a U-bend but mine have to be done on a straight using a press up to 36" in length.
Takes some practice to get it right but the hardest part is getting the the angle cut right on the two pipes so when you weld them together, the splay is right or at least close to where you need it in accordnance from where the headers are coming from. (Make sense?)
I have a various templates made from a manilla folder for 2-3way collectors. I just place it on the end of the pipe and trace it, cut as straight as possible on the bandsaw, then sand evenly on a belt sander. De-burr the inside and apply solar flux prior to welding.
When I made my collector, I had to press the slip first then do my cuts. Looking down through your pipe, divide it into 2 using a sharpie or something. Now the distance you want the 2 inlets to be from each other is how much angle you cut on the pipe starting from the half mark you made. The longer the cut, the closer the ends will be, shorter the cut results in the opposite. Get the idea? I'll draw something after I eat and post it. I'm sure that'll be way more helpful. I suck at verbal explanations :huh:
Ive used stainless steelwool for other things like oil catch cans. I would've used some for my exhaust but the wool I found seemed way to fine for my deal. The courser it is, the better it should hold up to heat and carbon buildup I'm assuming. Also, my exhaust is the FIRST ever muffler I made from scratch? When I do exhaust systems on cars and such, I'll have a performance exhaust can to put in along the line. :P
it's a crude drawing I did on my ipad.
A front and side view. The shaded gray would be the slip area.


An easier way to do it without the hassle of making a die or having a place make the slip for you would be to use the next size diameter up from your headers pipe. For example, if you're gonna use 1 1/2" for your header, use 1 5/8" for the collector.



ed
Cheap labor isn't skilled, skilled labor isn't cheap.
1980 KZ440a. I went green.
If you yourself are building an older bike and can see it through till you're riding it, that's proof you have patience.
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